Help Diagnosing Ignition Switch
08-27-23, 07:58 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Help Diagnosing Ignition Switch
Hello,
To start let me give a brief discription of my build. Its a Turbo 2 10ae that blew the motor at some point in a previous owners posession so now it has 6 port irons, a mild street port I believe, a weber 48 ida carb (so NA now), and dual MSD controlling spark. I just spent weeks redoing the fuel system, installing an AFR gauge, and rebuilding the carb. Ive always had an issue with cold starts, the car not cranking very long.
I went to go start the car, all excited to see how it will run now and it only cranks 2-7 times at most before it stops cranking each time you turn the key. Most of the time its closer to 2 cranks. Yesterday my neighbor noticed me and decided to bring his jump box that is bigger than mine to help. He thought it may be a dead battery. The car did crank longer and faster, almost starting the car (I think I may have to adjust the carb). I decided to have the battery checked the next day. The battery tested good at the battery repair place. I charged it the whole night, yet it still only gives me 2-7 cranks.
So next, I said "let me rule out a bad starter, maybe thats why its not cranking." I ran a wire from the battery to the starter and sure enough it tries to crank great, as long as I want, and tries to start the car. Once again, I probably have to adjust the carb to get it to start and run properly.
But, now here is where I am stuck. I am unsure how to test if its the wire that leads to the starter thats faulty, if its the ignition switch, or what it may be. I am somewhat new to wiring so I am still learning, but I have a good multimeter and I can pick it up quick. How do I figure out which part may be causing this issue? And what is the best way to fix it?
Maybe its even a fuse or relay? I really am unsure. Ive tried to read the FSM but have trouble figuring it out.
Thank you to anyone who helps in advance! Kind of beating my head against a wall trying to figure out what to try next.
To start let me give a brief discription of my build. Its a Turbo 2 10ae that blew the motor at some point in a previous owners posession so now it has 6 port irons, a mild street port I believe, a weber 48 ida carb (so NA now), and dual MSD controlling spark. I just spent weeks redoing the fuel system, installing an AFR gauge, and rebuilding the carb. Ive always had an issue with cold starts, the car not cranking very long.
I went to go start the car, all excited to see how it will run now and it only cranks 2-7 times at most before it stops cranking each time you turn the key. Most of the time its closer to 2 cranks. Yesterday my neighbor noticed me and decided to bring his jump box that is bigger than mine to help. He thought it may be a dead battery. The car did crank longer and faster, almost starting the car (I think I may have to adjust the carb). I decided to have the battery checked the next day. The battery tested good at the battery repair place. I charged it the whole night, yet it still only gives me 2-7 cranks.
So next, I said "let me rule out a bad starter, maybe thats why its not cranking." I ran a wire from the battery to the starter and sure enough it tries to crank great, as long as I want, and tries to start the car. Once again, I probably have to adjust the carb to get it to start and run properly.
But, now here is where I am stuck. I am unsure how to test if its the wire that leads to the starter thats faulty, if its the ignition switch, or what it may be. I am somewhat new to wiring so I am still learning, but I have a good multimeter and I can pick it up quick. How do I figure out which part may be causing this issue? And what is the best way to fix it?
Maybe its even a fuse or relay? I really am unsure. Ive tried to read the FSM but have trouble figuring it out.
Thank you to anyone who helps in advance! Kind of beating my head against a wall trying to figure out what to try next.
Last edited by Nap; 08-27-23 at 08:38 PM.
08-28-23, 11:09 AM
#2
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so the ignition switch just energizes the starter solenoid, the high amperage to actually turn the starter goes through the battery cables.
if your problem is the starter turning on, you should look at the ignition switch, clutch switch and the alarm relay
if it is that the starter doesn't turn much, its either the starter or the cables
if your problem is the starter turning on, you should look at the ignition switch, clutch switch and the alarm relay
if it is that the starter doesn't turn much, its either the starter or the cables
08-28-23, 11:16 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
so the ignition switch just energizes the starter solenoid, the high amperage to actually turn the starter goes through the battery cables.
if your problem is the starter turning on, you should look at the ignition switch, clutch switch and the alarm relay
if it is that the starter doesn't turn much, its either the starter or the cables
if your problem is the starter turning on, you should look at the ignition switch, clutch switch and the alarm relay
if it is that the starter doesn't turn much, its either the starter or the cables
08-28-23, 12:25 PM
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I appreciate your reply j9fd3s! I just cleaned the connector to the solenoid as it had oil caked on it from an old oil leak and made sure it was snug. It now cranks as long as I want, but not as fast as I believe it should. I verified my battery has good health and is not dropping while cranking, so Id assume the next step would be to check/clean ground wires and the starter's ground (which I believe is the bolt on the back of it?). Then if it still is not cranking fast, measure resistance on the high amperage leading to the starter. Does that sound correct?
08-29-23, 10:29 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Hey J9fd3s,
I worked on it during my lunch yesterday and after work. Lifted the car, cleaned all wiring locations on the starter, cleaned the main ground for the starter on the strut tower and put Dielectric grease as well as a new zinc bolt. Here is a video of what it sounds like when I start the car, even with starting fluid. I took it to show my friend, but it may also help with diagnostic. I know thats not great, and I can try to take a better one following the hurricane thats about to hit here in Florida. The car's battery was tested, and should be fine. I also put a jump pack on it so I can hopefully rule out any battery loss.
Not sure where to go from here. I know the car is getting fuel because its a weber 48 ida and I can see the fuel being squirted down the horns when I press the gas. And it should start with starting fluid. The car ran just fine before I took the carb off to rebuild it and redo the fuel system. But like I said, I can see down the horns that the carb works fine. Ive tried the deflood procedure multiple times even though I dont smell gas, just to be safe.
Like I said not sure where to go from here. It doesnt sound like my starter spins as fast as others ive heard, but I dont know if that would make enough of a difference. Thats why I sent the video, so you can hear it. Should I be chasing spark or looking deeper in to the starter. Really looking for guidance here.
Video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-Wy...ew?usp=sharing
I worked on it during my lunch yesterday and after work. Lifted the car, cleaned all wiring locations on the starter, cleaned the main ground for the starter on the strut tower and put Dielectric grease as well as a new zinc bolt. Here is a video of what it sounds like when I start the car, even with starting fluid. I took it to show my friend, but it may also help with diagnostic. I know thats not great, and I can try to take a better one following the hurricane thats about to hit here in Florida. The car's battery was tested, and should be fine. I also put a jump pack on it so I can hopefully rule out any battery loss.
Not sure where to go from here. I know the car is getting fuel because its a weber 48 ida and I can see the fuel being squirted down the horns when I press the gas. And it should start with starting fluid. The car ran just fine before I took the carb off to rebuild it and redo the fuel system. But like I said, I can see down the horns that the carb works fine. Ive tried the deflood procedure multiple times even though I dont smell gas, just to be safe.
Like I said not sure where to go from here. It doesnt sound like my starter spins as fast as others ive heard, but I dont know if that would make enough of a difference. Thats why I sent the video, so you can hear it. Should I be chasing spark or looking deeper in to the starter. Really looking for guidance here.
Video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-Wy...ew?usp=sharing
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