No start? Battery problems?
09-23-19, 12:06 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
No start? Battery problems?
Okay guys I want to get second opinion before I go ahead and purchase a battery and tell my girlfriend I won it. Anyway
12a Bridgeport
Weber 48
msd coils L & T
2kw modified starter
duralast gold 700cca (pretty much brand new)
Okay so my car REFUSES to start, I know I’m getting fuel I replaced the fuel filter I know my fuel pressure is good, spark plugs are good - pretty much brand new (NGK BR8EQ-14) so my question to you fine gentleman - Should I get a race battery my uncle thinks that my battery isn’t cranking the starter fast enough and I have to crank it forever before it even burbles like it’s going to start. I took it into auto zone today and got it charged I just put a 2kw starter together last night and threw it on but when I got my battery back it still cranked it pretty slow it started on my 3rd or 4th time and then stalled out which I feel is a possible timing issue, and I’ve been reading threads of other guys with Weber 48 and they say just pump the gas a few times and you’re good. . . Is there something I’m missing? I would like to upgrade to an AGM battery anyway but I want to really make sure it’s the right decision before spending 300-400 on a battery
any input is always appreciated thanks!
12a Bridgeport
Weber 48
msd coils L & T
2kw modified starter
duralast gold 700cca (pretty much brand new)
Okay so my car REFUSES to start, I know I’m getting fuel I replaced the fuel filter I know my fuel pressure is good, spark plugs are good - pretty much brand new (NGK BR8EQ-14) so my question to you fine gentleman - Should I get a race battery my uncle thinks that my battery isn’t cranking the starter fast enough and I have to crank it forever before it even burbles like it’s going to start. I took it into auto zone today and got it charged I just put a 2kw starter together last night and threw it on but when I got my battery back it still cranked it pretty slow it started on my 3rd or 4th time and then stalled out which I feel is a possible timing issue, and I’ve been reading threads of other guys with Weber 48 and they say just pump the gas a few times and you’re good. . . Is there something I’m missing? I would like to upgrade to an AGM battery anyway but I want to really make sure it’s the right decision before spending 300-400 on a battery
any input is always appreciated thanks!
09-23-19, 01:19 AM
#2
You don't seem to be describing the starter itself as dragging or slow, so am guessing this is not the prob. A new $100 battery would do the trick if it were, never mind throwing that sort of Coin on an AGM. When was the last time you swapped in a new Dizzy cap and rotor? And, yeah, make sure the timing is set up...
Thats all I have, but others will chime in-
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Thats all I have, but others will chime in-
Stu A
80GS
AZ
09-23-19, 06:33 AM
#3
ancient wizard...
Having 1st hand experience with a lot of AutoZone batteries-and the way they test them...their test equipment is all computer controlled in that it reports results back to their company database and the “associates they hire have minimal training and have no automotive experience at all.
Information that must be entered to accurately test/charge battery often not done correctly and test results are skewed good and bad. They sell a lot of batteries...and they have a high rate of new defective batteries.
OP have your battery tested elsewhere,for that matter,take car to a shop that can test battery with a carbon pile tester-that can also be used to test alternator and starter.
There may be an underlying issue causing the slow crank hard start problem.
700 cca of battery is more than enough to spin any rotary with a stock starter fast enough-and long enough over and over to start a cranky engine. The 2kw starter should also be able to spin that rotary with ease,with a good battery.
Thus kinda leaves interconnecting wiring as possible suspect. If you have battery cable/resistance issues,this can cause a good battery and starter to crank slower than needed to start your engine.
All rotarys need to be spun over quickly to fire off.
Certain carb setups and hi mile engines with low compression issues need most cranking speed.
Your 2kw starter may be 100% but if resistance in battery cables is an issue,because it has a higher amp draw to spin engine,you may notice no real increased cranking speed. If not enough amperage available to crank stock starter,certainly not enough to feed the 2kw starter what it needs.
Insufficient/dirty//oxidized connections can eat up a lot of amperage thru heat.
A good tech with right carbon pile tester can fish out what real problem may be.
As previous poster has noted,your ignition system has to be up to snuff right down to consumable maintenance items like cap rotor and wires and plugs. Having ignition timing and carb mixtures and idle speeds correctly adjusted will help any engine start easier and when they’re not,can aggravate condition you describe.
You state you have MSD ignition leading and trailing,when is the last time you tested spark quality on both systems. Have you pulled and inspected plugs and what did they look like? If not sure how to read them,post pics of them here.
Understand you can have several little problems that added up can cause your hard/no starts.
Information that must be entered to accurately test/charge battery often not done correctly and test results are skewed good and bad. They sell a lot of batteries...and they have a high rate of new defective batteries.
OP have your battery tested elsewhere,for that matter,take car to a shop that can test battery with a carbon pile tester-that can also be used to test alternator and starter.
There may be an underlying issue causing the slow crank hard start problem.
700 cca of battery is more than enough to spin any rotary with a stock starter fast enough-and long enough over and over to start a cranky engine. The 2kw starter should also be able to spin that rotary with ease,with a good battery.
Thus kinda leaves interconnecting wiring as possible suspect. If you have battery cable/resistance issues,this can cause a good battery and starter to crank slower than needed to start your engine.
All rotarys need to be spun over quickly to fire off.
Certain carb setups and hi mile engines with low compression issues need most cranking speed.
Your 2kw starter may be 100% but if resistance in battery cables is an issue,because it has a higher amp draw to spin engine,you may notice no real increased cranking speed. If not enough amperage available to crank stock starter,certainly not enough to feed the 2kw starter what it needs.
Insufficient/dirty//oxidized connections can eat up a lot of amperage thru heat.
A good tech with right carbon pile tester can fish out what real problem may be.
As previous poster has noted,your ignition system has to be up to snuff right down to consumable maintenance items like cap rotor and wires and plugs. Having ignition timing and carb mixtures and idle speeds correctly adjusted will help any engine start easier and when they’re not,can aggravate condition you describe.
You state you have MSD ignition leading and trailing,when is the last time you tested spark quality on both systems. Have you pulled and inspected plugs and what did they look like? If not sure how to read them,post pics of them here.
Understand you can have several little problems that added up can cause your hard/no starts.
Last edited by GSLSEforme; 09-23-19 at 06:45 AM.
The following users liked this post:
AlexA69 (09-23-19)
09-23-19, 09:42 AM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
You don't seem to be describing the starter itself as dragging or slow, so am guessing this is not the prob. A new $100 battery would do the trick if it were, never mind throwing that sort of Coin on an AGM. When was the last time you swapped in a new Dizzy cap and rotor? And, yeah, make sure the timing is set up...
Thats all I have, but others will chime in-
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Thats all I have, but others will chime in-
Stu A
80GS
AZ
09-23-19, 10:09 AM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Having 1st hand experience with a lot of AutoZone batteries-and the way they test them...their test equipment is all computer controlled in that it reports results back to their company database and the “associates they hire have minimal training and have no automotive experience at all.
Information that must be entered to accurately test/charge battery often not done correctly and test results are skewed good and bad. They sell a lot of batteries...and they have a high rate of new defective batteries.
OP have your battery tested elsewhere,for that matter,take car to a shop that can test battery with a carbon pile tester-that can also be used to test alternator and starter.
There may be an underlying issue causing the slow crank hard start problem.
700 cca of battery is more than enough to spin any rotary with a stock starter fast enough-and long enough over and over to start a cranky engine. The 2kw starter should also be able to spin that rotary with ease,with a good battery.
Thus kinda leaves interconnecting wiring as possible suspect. If you have battery cable/resistance issues,this can cause a good battery and starter to crank slower than needed to start your engine.
All rotarys need to be spun over quickly to fire off.
Certain carb setups and hi mile engines with low compression issues need most cranking speed.
Your 2kw starter may be 100% but if resistance in battery cables is an issue,because it has a higher amp draw to spin engine,you may notice no real increased cranking speed. If not enough amperage available to crank stock starter,certainly not enough to feed the 2kw starter what it needs.
Insufficient/dirty//oxidized connections can eat up a lot of amperage thru heat.
A good tech with right carbon pile tester can fish out what real problem may be.
As previous poster has noted,your ignition system has to be up to snuff right down to consumable maintenance items like cap rotor and wires and plugs. Having ignition timing and carb mixtures and idle speeds correctly adjusted will help any engine start easier and when they’re not,can aggravate condition you describe.
You state you have MSD ignition leading and trailing,when is the last time you tested spark quality on both systems. Have you pulled and inspected plugs and what did they look like? If not sure how to read them,post pics of them here.
Understand you can have several little problems that added up can cause your hard/no starts.
Information that must be entered to accurately test/charge battery often not done correctly and test results are skewed good and bad. They sell a lot of batteries...and they have a high rate of new defective batteries.
OP have your battery tested elsewhere,for that matter,take car to a shop that can test battery with a carbon pile tester-that can also be used to test alternator and starter.
There may be an underlying issue causing the slow crank hard start problem.
700 cca of battery is more than enough to spin any rotary with a stock starter fast enough-and long enough over and over to start a cranky engine. The 2kw starter should also be able to spin that rotary with ease,with a good battery.
Thus kinda leaves interconnecting wiring as possible suspect. If you have battery cable/resistance issues,this can cause a good battery and starter to crank slower than needed to start your engine.
All rotarys need to be spun over quickly to fire off.
Certain carb setups and hi mile engines with low compression issues need most cranking speed.
Your 2kw starter may be 100% but if resistance in battery cables is an issue,because it has a higher amp draw to spin engine,you may notice no real increased cranking speed. If not enough amperage available to crank stock starter,certainly not enough to feed the 2kw starter what it needs.
Insufficient/dirty//oxidized connections can eat up a lot of amperage thru heat.
A good tech with right carbon pile tester can fish out what real problem may be.
As previous poster has noted,your ignition system has to be up to snuff right down to consumable maintenance items like cap rotor and wires and plugs. Having ignition timing and carb mixtures and idle speeds correctly adjusted will help any engine start easier and when they’re not,can aggravate condition you describe.
You state you have MSD ignition leading and trailing,when is the last time you tested spark quality on both systems. Have you pulled and inspected plugs and what did they look like? If not sure how to read them,post pics of them here.
Understand you can have several little problems that added up can cause your hard/no starts.
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