Hello, I have some questions about a N/A to turbo...
05-12-09, 03:14 PM
#1
Hello, I have some questions about a N/A to turbo...
So If I were to purchase a turbo for my 1986 rx7 n/a would I be able to put it on? What might I need to put a turbo on the car? I found the manifold on ebay new for the t3/t4 turbo that I was looking at, would a t3/t4 turbo be a good turbo for the car? What modifications might I have to do?
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
Mark
05-12-09, 03:17 PM
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: VA Beach
Posts: 797
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First thing is to probably search.
You are going to need bigger fuel injectors period.
You also need to have some sort of spacer to clear the lower intake manifold.
You are going to need some sort of way to tune it. Ala Rtek or S-AFC. This will also require a wideband o2 sensor.
You will probably be alot better off buying all the stuff to swap the t2 engine/harness/ecu into your car instead of trying to rig up some one off turbo kit with ebay parts. I'll let some others chime in as well to give you an idea of the undertaking it is to turbo an n/a car.
You are going to need bigger fuel injectors period.
You also need to have some sort of spacer to clear the lower intake manifold.
You are going to need some sort of way to tune it. Ala Rtek or S-AFC. This will also require a wideband o2 sensor.
You will probably be alot better off buying all the stuff to swap the t2 engine/harness/ecu into your car instead of trying to rig up some one off turbo kit with ebay parts. I'll let some others chime in as well to give you an idea of the undertaking it is to turbo an n/a car.
05-12-09, 03:24 PM
#3
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Winona Lake, IN
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I purchased a TII with a crap body and switched it out in my vert. It's a big job. If I had a coupe, I would say you'll be thousands of dollars ahead selling your N/A and buying a TII. Do a lot of research first.
05-12-09, 03:48 PM
#4
Its a rather large undertaking for a n/a to turbo swap, whether you go the full t2 swap or if you decide to turbo up the n/a engine. Either way your talking a month or more of work, and lots of customization with a n/a with a turbo added to it.
I once thought about it, but then decided to roll with what I got and just buy a second t2 in the future.
Another possibility is to supercharge the n/a with a Camden supercharger.
I once thought about it, but then decided to roll with what I got and just buy a second t2 in the future.
Another possibility is to supercharge the n/a with a Camden supercharger.
Trending Topics
05-15-09, 11:48 AM
#10
Becoming pure track...
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I suggest reading the FAQ at the top of the 2nd gen forum. It is stickied.
Also, I suggest looking at Aaron's N/A to turbo page. He has done a really good job presenting what needs to be done. You will be doing a lot of fabrication and custom work.
In case you are too lazy to find aarons page....
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/naturbo.htm
Also, I suggest looking at Aaron's N/A to turbo page. He has done a really good job presenting what needs to be done. You will be doing a lot of fabrication and custom work.
In case you are too lazy to find aarons page....
http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/naturbo.htm
05-15-09, 12:48 PM
#11
NeCr0mStR, IT DOES NOT TAKE A MONTH OR MORE TO TURBO AN N/a. How do I know? Took my 10 hours. from running engine to swapped parts to running 6 port turbo. Also parts are not that hard to find, especially if you have a s4. But s5 is a little more a bitch.
Check my pictures out in my album, I have pictures of the tapping and drilling. I drilled the front cover for the oil return, so much easier. This topic has been talked about so many time's it is redundant.
I say turbo charging the engine was pretty simple. The s5 already has the knock sensor location above the Trailing spark plug anyways, so no drilling for that. Everything is quite simple, just do some reading and it'll go a long way.
If one of these days I'm not lazy I'll do a write up/build. Oh yeah, the only hard thing, that wasn't hard was porting the tii lim to the n/a gasket. It was just time consuming, but worth it. There's pictures of the manifold in the album. It's a lot bigger than most people. I just need to port the engine soon...
Check my pictures out in my album, I have pictures of the tapping and drilling. I drilled the front cover for the oil return, so much easier. This topic has been talked about so many time's it is redundant.
I say turbo charging the engine was pretty simple. The s5 already has the knock sensor location above the Trailing spark plug anyways, so no drilling for that. Everything is quite simple, just do some reading and it'll go a long way.
If one of these days I'm not lazy I'll do a write up/build. Oh yeah, the only hard thing, that wasn't hard was porting the tii lim to the n/a gasket. It was just time consuming, but worth it. There's pictures of the manifold in the album. It's a lot bigger than most people. I just need to port the engine soon...
05-15-09, 01:15 PM
#12
Once again, the only reason its considered hard and people like you freak out when they read the write-ups is because there are 1000 ways to turbo a 6 port engine. From different intake/exhaust manifold setups to oil and coolant supply sources. In reality its actually easy as hell.
05-15-09, 09:02 PM
#13
^^ very agreed. I took my coolant from the line crossing the bac. Since the bac its self does not need coolant, I thought why not use my turbo as the "extension" tube. It does after all have a pressure and return side. Oil is easy, tapping is easy, bolting things on is easy, tuning is easy, what hard part is there?
05-16-09, 12:42 AM
#15
And then your new T2 engine ***** on you because its a POS J-Spec thats been sitting for 10 years.
Yeah the coolant lines are pretty much run for you already on S5 cars. For the people not comfortable with drilling and tapping, an oil filter pedestal is $25 from Banzai. I guess swapping or removing and tapping the front cover can be hard, you can remove and have a bung welded on the oil pan if you want. Buy the manifolds from Japan2LA or buy some stock ones and give them to a machine shop with your NA gasket and thats IT for the custom stuff. Done.
^^ very agreed. I took my coolant from the line crossing the bac. Since the bac its self does not need coolant, I thought why not use my turbo as the "extension" tube. It does after all have a pressure and return side. Oil is easy, tapping is easy, bolting things on is easy, tuning is easy, what hard part is there?
05-16-09, 10:56 AM
#16
Well for the front cover, you don't have to remove it to make the oil return. I just had a drill bit and drill it while in the car. All I did was remove the oil pan, and got all the shavings out by running used oil through the oil return part in the front cover. But the lim, some people wouldn't have the skills to use a damn dremel.
I did infact use a T2 front cover this time I rebuilt the blown n/a. So I figured why not..
I did infact use a T2 front cover this time I rebuilt the blown n/a. So I figured why not..
05-18-09, 10:57 AM
#17
Do any of you have any opinions on the t3/t4 turbo bolt on for the car? I was thinking of getting it to bolt on with a S-AFC to program my ECU. But from what I understand is that I would have to upgrade my fuel injectors, route a oil line to the turbo, buy the manifold to fit the t3/t4 turbo, and down pipe. If there is anything else I'm missing? Can I get some input to what I'm thinking of doing?
This is the link to the kit I want to kit for the turbo:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BASE-...3A1|240%3A1318
This is the link to the kit I want to kit for the turbo:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BASE-...3A1|240%3A1318
05-18-09, 12:01 PM
#18
Use a stock s5 turbo, if you are using T2 lim+uim. The stock turbo does well, but it also depends what your planning to do with the car. There are so many t3/t4's that are actually smaller than our stock turbo. I'll save you some time.
turbo+manifold
fuel pump
fuel injectors
ecu
piggyback
tii lim/uim or custom spacer
oil feed line + oil return (front cover)
coolant feed, has to go pressure to returning
t2 throttle cable
knock sensor if running t2 ecu
down pipe exhaust
boost gauge
and a bottle of coke.
turbo+manifold
fuel pump
fuel injectors
ecu
piggyback
tii lim/uim or custom spacer
oil feed line + oil return (front cover)
coolant feed, has to go pressure to returning
t2 throttle cable
knock sensor if running t2 ecu
down pipe exhaust
boost gauge
and a bottle of coke.
05-18-09, 01:25 PM
#19
Removing the oil pan to get the shavings out is a freaking genius idea, lol...I wish I had thought of that.
The compressor on the turbo you're looking at looks like it'll probably work but the hotside looks too small. Its probably smaller than stock so it wouldn't work, our turbos are not compatible with 4 cylinder engines (Miatas/Hondas) like that one is advertised for because of the huge hotsides we need to run. Also you'd need a custom manifold since it doesn't have an internal wastegate which is a lot more money and work, unless you can get someone to build a stock flange to T3 flange adapter that has a wastegate flange welded to the side of it but I'm not sure how good it would be at controlling boost.
It is definitely a good idea to use a newer turbo like a T3/T4 or a full T4, it will yield better response and more power even if it has the same wheel dimensions and size as the stock turbo. It will probably last longer too...spin the compressor wheel of any newer turbo and compare it with ours and see for yourself. The stock turbo was designed in the '70s, it was used on the first gens in Japan with a dry CHRA. Turbocharger technology has come a long way since then. Edit: Make sure you check the compressor map for the turbo before you buy it and get the biggest turbine housing you can find (if its a T3). Mass flow rate of our engines are usually 30-40 lbs/min. Or you could search for the thread by arghx that has the stock turbo wheel dimensions and use that.
If you're going with an aftermarket turbo it would probably pay now to go with one that meets your power goals (and don't be conservative with them
). You'd lose a lot of money replacing the turbo manifold and all associated plumbing later on when you decide you want more power. If you don't have the money yet just run the stock stuff for now until you do.
The compressor on the turbo you're looking at looks like it'll probably work but the hotside looks too small. Its probably smaller than stock so it wouldn't work, our turbos are not compatible with 4 cylinder engines (Miatas/Hondas) like that one is advertised for because of the huge hotsides we need to run. Also you'd need a custom manifold since it doesn't have an internal wastegate which is a lot more money and work, unless you can get someone to build a stock flange to T3 flange adapter that has a wastegate flange welded to the side of it but I'm not sure how good it would be at controlling boost.
It is definitely a good idea to use a newer turbo like a T3/T4 or a full T4, it will yield better response and more power even if it has the same wheel dimensions and size as the stock turbo. It will probably last longer too...spin the compressor wheel of any newer turbo and compare it with ours and see for yourself. The stock turbo was designed in the '70s, it was used on the first gens in Japan with a dry CHRA. Turbocharger technology has come a long way since then. Edit: Make sure you check the compressor map for the turbo before you buy it and get the biggest turbine housing you can find (if its a T3). Mass flow rate of our engines are usually 30-40 lbs/min. Or you could search for the thread by arghx that has the stock turbo wheel dimensions and use that.
If you're going with an aftermarket turbo it would probably pay now to go with one that meets your power goals (and don't be conservative with them
). You'd lose a lot of money replacing the turbo manifold and all associated plumbing later on when you decide you want more power. If you don't have the money yet just run the stock stuff for now until you do.
05-19-09, 10:46 AM
#20
Removing the oil pan to get the shavings out is a freaking genius idea, lol...I wish I had thought of that.
The compressor on the turbo you're looking at looks like it'll probably work but the hotside looks too small. Its probably smaller than stock so it wouldn't work, our turbos are not compatible with 4 cylinder engines (Miatas/Hondas) like that one is advertised for because of the huge hotsides we need to run. Also you'd need a custom manifold since it doesn't have an internal wastegate which is a lot more money and work, unless you can get someone to build a stock flange to T3 flange adapter that has a wastegate flange welded to the side of it but I'm not sure how good it would be at controlling boost.
It is definitely a good idea to use a newer turbo like a T3/T4 or a full T4, it will yield better response and more power even if it has the same wheel dimensions and size as the stock turbo. It will probably last longer too...spin the compressor wheel of any newer turbo and compare it with ours and see for yourself. The stock turbo was designed in the '70s, it was used on the first gens in Japan with a dry CHRA. Turbocharger technology has come a long way since then. Edit: Make sure you check the compressor map for the turbo before you buy it and get the biggest turbine housing you can find (if its a T3). Mass flow rate of our engines are usually 30-40 lbs/min. Or you could search for the thread by arghx that has the stock turbo wheel dimensions and use that.
If you're going with an aftermarket turbo it would probably pay now to go with one that meets your power goals (and don't be conservative with them ). You'd lose a lot of money replacing the turbo manifold and all associated plumbing later on when you decide you want more power. If you don't have the money yet just run the stock stuff for now until you do.
The compressor on the turbo you're looking at looks like it'll probably work but the hotside looks too small. Its probably smaller than stock so it wouldn't work, our turbos are not compatible with 4 cylinder engines (Miatas/Hondas) like that one is advertised for because of the huge hotsides we need to run. Also you'd need a custom manifold since it doesn't have an internal wastegate which is a lot more money and work, unless you can get someone to build a stock flange to T3 flange adapter that has a wastegate flange welded to the side of it but I'm not sure how good it would be at controlling boost.
It is definitely a good idea to use a newer turbo like a T3/T4 or a full T4, it will yield better response and more power even if it has the same wheel dimensions and size as the stock turbo. It will probably last longer too...spin the compressor wheel of any newer turbo and compare it with ours and see for yourself. The stock turbo was designed in the '70s, it was used on the first gens in Japan with a dry CHRA. Turbocharger technology has come a long way since then. Edit: Make sure you check the compressor map for the turbo before you buy it and get the biggest turbine housing you can find (if its a T3). Mass flow rate of our engines are usually 30-40 lbs/min. Or you could search for the thread by arghx that has the stock turbo wheel dimensions and use that.
If you're going with an aftermarket turbo it would probably pay now to go with one that meets your power goals (and don't be conservative with them
). You'd lose a lot of money replacing the turbo manifold and all associated plumbing later on when you decide you want more power. If you don't have the money yet just run the stock stuff for now until you do.Thanks for the info, by the way whats the size of the stock twin for the car?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mulcryant
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
10
09-09-15 05:24 PM