RarestRX

Yo,


I thought I'd just let you in on a super performance bargain for your RX-7:

Change your oil!

I just changed my oil and I don't know if it's part of the whole rotary deal, but I can /totally/ feel the difference! Better acceleration, and most importantly: snappier backfires!! I noticed this before, but I can't get over the very real and felt benefits of changing the oil in an RX-7.

If you're curious, I use Havoline 20-50W and am trying out the Puralator One filter. When all was said and done, under 15 bucks for everything! I'm thinking of changing my oil every 2000miles, just for the performance gain, but environmentally, I'll stick with 3000miles. My RX-7 burns enough fossil fuels as is. *wink*

KS
1989 GTUs "Now with 40% snappier backfires!"

Mykl

haha

Castrol GTX 20w/50 @ 2500 miles because at 3000 the oil looks nasty.

ROSHX7

I did a switch to Pennzoil Penzanne Synthetic 5W-30 in my TII and noticed a huge difference! Although it costs a lot more, its definitely worth it! Turbo spooled up quicker and the car revs faster. I was using Castrol GTX 10W40 and also Pennzoil 20W-50 before. Not sure if its the OIL or the lower weight that helped the most!

SpeedRacer

every 1500-3000 miles for me.(depending on how lazy I am that month) No matter what, my oil always looks brand new when I change it. I use the K&N Filter...does anybdoy else use it? Oh, and I use Castrol GTX 20w50

fc3s.org

Just wondering, and I know this will cause a debate, but what reasons are your guys running 20W50 for? Do you all live in the desert? I live in San Diego, where it is usually between 65-85F year round. I have been told by people in the oil manufacturing industry that heavier weight does nothing but rob power from your motor. Now you might think that he meant pisston motors. Well, funny enough, he has been racing RX-7's since 1986, so he has had plenty of trial and error. What he recommends is no heavier than 10W30. Personally I use 5W30 synthetic in our racecar and since we changed from 20W50 Castrol GTX, we have lowered our oil temps from 230F max to 210F max. We also lowered our water temps 7F. We use only OEM filters, but have also had good experience with Pure One, Mobil1, and K&N, but they are all pretty close in price to OEM ones. Stay away from the fram ones and other el-cheapo filters that have cardboard bypass pellet things in them (bad news there) I challenge your guys to try a lighter weight oil next time you change your oil and see if there is any difference. Let us know what you find.

BTW, I use Royal Purple Racing 21 (5W30) in the race car and Royal Purple Standard Synthetic Motor Oil in 5W30 in my 91 vert. And NO it dosen't clog your cats

stinkfist

Very technical debate here. Lots of good arguments for both sides.
I use castrol 20/50 in my street cars. Reasons:

1) Those smart guys that desighned my engine said use it. I think this is a real good reason. After all if they are smart enough to MAKE an engine then they must know a thing or two. I can build engines but doubt I cold make one so I'll take their word for it.
2) A hevier oil will not only seal better, but will also "stick" to the housings and seals better.
3) The hotter an engine runs the thinner your oil gets. Thicker oil will maintain a higher weight when Its exposed to the extreme temps that a rotary produces.
4) We use 20/50 in both our EP car and our IT7 car. Our EP car is 1st in points in our region and our IT7 car is 3rd in points in the region.
5) Those smart guys That made my engine said use it.

I know there are many good arguments for using different weights and synthetics. I have tried synthetics with good results. But since the performance gains are not mesurable and the wear gains have not been proven, why should I spend the extra money?

Mike

RXTASY1

Ditto Mike!
That's why I use 20/50 Castrol! The guys that designed the motor, said so!

RarestRX

Yo,


Why do I use Havoline 20-50W? 'Cause Felix told me to!


And I quote:

I've used 20W-50 Havoline for over 15 years. Before that I used Castrol GTX 20W-50 for 9 years. Prior to that I drove boingers and don't remember what oil I used, other than not using Quaker State or Pennzoil. The reason I switched was I learned of tests that demonstrated a switch from GTX to Havoline resulted in materially reduced oil consumption. Upon making the switch I was able to confirm those results. This is something a car owner can do, but it can take quite some time to collect sufficient data to constitute proof unless the test vehicle(s) is(are) already heavy oil consumer(s). A fleet operator could easily do this, but I am unaware of any recent production rotaries suitable for those who operate fleets. The only thing to account for the majority of the reduced oil consumption with Havoline is its chemical composition must have been more compatible than GTX with the oil control seal o-rings. They are subjected to more heat than any other oil seal in the engine and are the seals that deteriorate and allow that puff of smoke when first starting the engine or when you exit the throttle at high RPM in gear. As they get worse, the start-up smoking lasts longer and longer, and/or the deceleration smoke gets worse and worse, and eventually the smoking doesn't stop. The friendlier your oil is to these o-rings, the longer they will last.

What I did was many years ago. Oil chemistries may now be sufficiently different to invalidate my experience. That this may be so isn't grounds for me to make a switch. I still use Havoline and only Havoline, 20W-50 always, but I live in the sunshine state. Different oil brands are constructed from chemically different crude base stocks. Different oil brands are different colors. Before the producers of 2-stroke oils started adding dyes that proved the presence of oil when mixed with gasoline, the highest quality, cleanest burning oils were a color similar to Havoline and quite different from the color of Castrol, unlike one popular Pennsylvania brand with a bad reputation among marine mechanics that was close in color to Castrol. So it may be that an indicator of whether a particular brand of oil may be o-ring friendlier than another may be its color.

Felix is da man!

KS

allstyle

I say....disconnect the oil metering pump.....run premix with 2 cycle oil.....and use 5w30 synthetic in the crankcase. Therefore not having to worry about synthetic oil not burning off in the combustion chamber!!!

blue88gxl N/A

I use Castrol GTX 10W-30 in my rex.
It consumes about a quart every 1000 miles, Is this normal?

I thought I heard people saying you couldn't use Synthetic motor oil in rotaries cause it won't burn up all the way and leave crud in your motor and eventually seize your engine, Is this true?

Can Rotaries take Synthetic motor oil or not?

fc3s.org

I can't vouche for ALL synthetics, but I have used Royal Purple for some time. I just recently swapped out my A'PEXi N1 for a RB catback, and the cats are not clogged what so ever. There isn't even any residue. I think that the saying you are reffering to was definately true when they were designing the car (the same time they said only use mineral oil) due to the fact that the synthetic oil technology wasn't developed as it is today. Again as others can vouch for, this is probably the longest standing arguement in the rotary community. I think it is like peoples choice to run either 87 or 92/91 gas in their N/A. Purely choice.

Another plus for higher viscosity oil is that it raises your oil pressure. But then again by doing that, the oil dosen't circulate as fast through the oil cooler due to it's thickness, and therefore retains heat more so than lighter oil.

Again, I think that the differences in using one oil over the other is really that persons choice. I noted almost 4rwhp gains with the RP race oil over Castrol GTX 20W50, so to me, along wtih it's added protection, the extra HP can't hurt anything

Ryde _Or_Die

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SpeedRacer
[B]I use the K&N Filter...does anybdoy else use it?

I was looking for a place to get the K&N oil filter, is it an improvement? Where do you get it? Looks like 10W30 is good, synthetic then? Or Blend? Thanks.

fc3s.org

I used the K&N once, but didn't notice any difference other than the fact that it cost more than an OEM filter! I think it can be used like 10K miles or something, but I am not sure on that. Can anyone verify that from the packaging? I wouldn't trust my oil filter to work for 10K miles regardless, and I changed it at 3K. I got mine from Kragen or Pep Boys one of the 2.

Use what you want to as far as synthetic or mineral. It's your choice

Scott 89t2

I use 20w50 for pressure. even with it my pressure at idle is way to low. like 15psi. but there is no way to rasie it as far as I know and it's been like that for a year now so.... that's on my autometer. the stock gauge would sometimes drop to the bottom line at idle before i replaced with the new one. when I run thinner oil it goes even lower...

also becauase everyone recommands it for turbo rx-7's...

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

I was having the same problem (with castrol), besides the oil coming extremly dirty @ oil/filter change. I've been using the Valvoline VR 10(15?)-30 since Feb, no more need to add a quart every month, NO MORE DIRTY oil @ oil/filter change.....I love this oil!!!

KNO

supergoat

I am running 5W-30 right now. But I run 0w-30 when I can find it.

I use Castrol GTX. The last time I changed it was a few days before I drove across country. Like August 18th or something. I have kept it topped off. The reason I havn't changed it is because everytime I check the oil it is nice and clean and clear. When it's time to Change I'm gonna try and find Valvoline 0W-30 and see how I like it.