Getting it running AND Blown Motor tricks
#1
Getting it running AND Blown Motor tricks
Ok, I'm going to be finishing the purchase and picking up my '88 AE on Tuesday, barring unforseen problems.
It ran (poorly) when parked. (August, 2001)
I did a compression test, front rotor was ok (80-90 PSI), back rotor was almost nada, and lotsa oil back there.
I'd like to drive it home, if possible. (it's only 10 miles, it should make it)
What are some tricks to get it started if it's tricky? (and I bet it will be, I tried to start it once, it wouldn't fire)
Will it smoke excessively, with a bad back rotor?
Also, I'm 99% sure that the motor is beyond any fluid tricks (ATF), but, should I try anyways? What's the exact procedure? Just how the heck are you suppossed to get any inside the housings? Through the spark plug holes? how much?
Just how slow will it be with only one rotor? I'm guessing roughly 1/3 HP (less pressure means less boost, plus 1/2 of the motor not working) (it's a T2 so that would be 180 normally, right? so maybe 60-70?) Will it go quick enough to get it up to highway speeds?
Will it use crazy amounts of gas (I'm not really concerned as there appeared to be 1/4 tank in there)
anything I should be careful of on a car that's sat a while?
Thanks.....
It ran (poorly) when parked. (August, 2001)
I did a compression test, front rotor was ok (80-90 PSI), back rotor was almost nada, and lotsa oil back there.
I'd like to drive it home, if possible. (it's only 10 miles, it should make it)
What are some tricks to get it started if it's tricky? (and I bet it will be, I tried to start it once, it wouldn't fire)
Will it smoke excessively, with a bad back rotor?
Also, I'm 99% sure that the motor is beyond any fluid tricks (ATF), but, should I try anyways? What's the exact procedure? Just how the heck are you suppossed to get any inside the housings? Through the spark plug holes? how much?
Just how slow will it be with only one rotor? I'm guessing roughly 1/3 HP (less pressure means less boost, plus 1/2 of the motor not working) (it's a T2 so that would be 180 normally, right? so maybe 60-70?) Will it go quick enough to get it up to highway speeds?
Will it use crazy amounts of gas (I'm not really concerned as there appeared to be 1/4 tank in there)
anything I should be careful of on a car that's sat a while?
Thanks.....
#2
Rotary Freak
It COULD make it.
MAYbe...
I had a bad rear rotor, and lost compression on two faces. (one apex seal)
SO I had 1 & 1/3rd rotor pushing me a mile.
anything could happen, the rotor could eat itself, and take the rotor housing with it.
(Maybe more)
Or it might SPRING to life.
I would tow it home, ATF it, and check it again.
Otherwise, toss a shortblosk from Revolution Rotary in it.
www.revolutionrotary.com
Inexpensive (and best) engine for that beauty AE.
I had a bad rear rotor, and lost compression on two faces. (one apex seal)
SO I had 1 & 1/3rd rotor pushing me a mile.
anything could happen, the rotor could eat itself, and take the rotor housing with it.
(Maybe more)
Or it might SPRING to life.
I would tow it home, ATF it, and check it again.
Otherwise, toss a shortblosk from Revolution Rotary in it.
www.revolutionrotary.com
Inexpensive (and best) engine for that beauty AE.
#7
Speed from skill
Join Date: Feb 2001
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That's the current condition my AE is in. If you don't have to stop at all on the way home, then you might make it. It probably won't idle after warmup so you'll have to do some fancy footwork and hold the revs high. It's very weak so you may not be able to get it up some small hills without keeping the rpms at 5-6k. I suggest that you just have it towed. I decided to tow mine because it wasn't worth the risk of having it stall and not being able to turn it back on in a public street. If you have lots of time to spare, then you can try limping it home.
Depending on the situation, the engine shouldn't be too hard to start with the engine cold. Use a fuel cut switch because it may be flooded. It's hell trying to start it up again after it's warm which is why I went for the tow truck.
Depending on the situation, the engine shouldn't be too hard to start with the engine cold. Use a fuel cut switch because it may be flooded. It's hell trying to start it up again after it's warm which is why I went for the tow truck.
Last edited by AE Turbo; 03-18-02 at 02:10 PM.
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#8
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Join Date: Sep 2001
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Yah i drove mine on one rotor for quite a distance when i first bought it it was find... i did about an hour and a bit of highway driving on one rotor ... it was fine... One thing you might want to remember for after you put in the new engine or even when your trying to get the engine going is that the gasoline has probably gone bunk so you will have to use some injector cleaner after you drive it... anyhow youll do fine....
#10
Rotary Freak
Join Date: May 2001
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To tell if the ATF trick even has a shot at working, check the compression. If you have two low and one high bumps, then try the ATF. If you have two high and one low, it's time for a rebuild.
The ATF will only work on stuck apex seals, if one of your side seals is shot, the whole thing is shot.
I would tow it, just in case.
For the whole scoop on the ATF treatment, go to mazspeed.com under the Facts section.
hanman
The ATF will only work on stuck apex seals, if one of your side seals is shot, the whole thing is shot.
I would tow it, just in case.
For the whole scoop on the ATF treatment, go to mazspeed.com under the Facts section.
hanman
#12
Driven a turbo FB lately?
iTrader: (1)
Re: It COULD make it.
Originally posted by Sniper_X
MAYbe...
I had a bad rear rotor, and lost compression on two faces. (one apex seal)
SO I had 1 & 1/3rd rotor pushing me a mile.
anything could happen, the rotor could eat itself, and take the rotor housing with it.
(Maybe more)
Or it might SPRING to life.
I would tow it home, ATF it, and check it again.
Otherwise, toss a shortblosk from Revolution Rotary in it.
www.revolutionrotary.com
Inexpensive (and best) engine for that beauty AE.
MAYbe...
I had a bad rear rotor, and lost compression on two faces. (one apex seal)
SO I had 1 & 1/3rd rotor pushing me a mile.
anything could happen, the rotor could eat itself, and take the rotor housing with it.
(Maybe more)
Or it might SPRING to life.
I would tow it home, ATF it, and check it again.
Otherwise, toss a shortblosk from Revolution Rotary in it.
www.revolutionrotary.com
Inexpensive (and best) engine for that beauty AE.
#14
Round&Round not Up&Down
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: West Bloomfield, MI
Posts: 2,805
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I drove my 12A with a bad rear rotor to the RX7 mechanics garage 23 miles away and I used over 1/4 tank of fuel. The road was long and straight with only two stop signs. I knew the motor was toast, so I had nothing to lose, plus he already had my street port waiting to drop in.
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