So I'm getting quite annoyed. I keep buying window switches from Ebay, and other online places, all used, mind you, and they work for a bit, then stop.

Here's the thing. They'll stop working, but then, I'll turn the car off for a while, come back in, and they'll be working again. It's sporatic. I can't tell if this is a problem with the switches themselves, or if it's something else in my car, making me go through lots of switches. I'm on set number 4 now, I think, and it's already doing it. And it's not just one that stops working. If one stops working, the other stops working at the same time.

There aren't any other electrical problems "that I'm aware of," with my car, other than the fact that the rear windshield wiper is choosy of when it wants to work as well.

I was going to buy a new set from blackdragon auto, or mazdatrix, just because I'm so ******* tired of paying $160~ for a pair of switches that work for a month~.

Do you guys think it's the switches themselves, or is it probably something wrong with another area of wiring in my car? Should I buy the new switch and just try that?

No, the window lock switch isn't switched to "on."

Halp.

 

Get some switches out of a Mazda MPV. I did, my windows work SO much better and I haven't looked back. I kept cleaning my old switches like crazy and the result was always the same...after a few weeks, they slowed...slowed and finally stopped. So far, the MPV switches haven't even blinked. I've got a set I could sell you, they're tan.

 

sounds annoying, and thx for the mazda MPV tip.

 

Sounds like a problem with the wiring.

 

in b4 warn for cursing in title.



I'm going with what Black91 said, my power windows have never failed (Just the drivers side passenger switch broke off the thing so you cant make it go up)

as for the wipers thats a bad wiper switch :S

 

I know about the MPV switch thing, but the thing is, it's a 10th anniversary, and I kind of want to keep it mint-ish. If anyone has black MPV window switches, I'll consider it. But where else can I find them?

Also, Acesanugal, how'd you clean the switches to make them work again? My passenger window is stuck down right now, and it's going to rain this weekend.

 

The switches are not up to the current required to move the windows. Clean the tracks and relube is a big job, but worth it.

You also need to rewire and add relays to the windows. The relay well carry the load much better and the switch will never wear out again. Relays can be had from any stereo shop, radio shack, autozone, ebay etc. You need the SPDT type with a 5 wire socket.

Search will help-there was a recent thread.

Good luck!

 

You're talking about the window tracks? Like, the tracks with the string of ***** attached?

I really don't think that's the problem. They don't just start slowing down, and eventually stop. They'll be working fine, and just immediately, even while rolling the window down, they just cut out and stop working. Sometimes, they come back and start working again after a couple hours/days/a week.

I don't think it's a track issue. I took those apart, cleaned, and relubed them when I got the car, because the passenger side was going pretty slow.

This problem is with the switches.

 

If the passenger goes out everytime the drivers does, thats a problem with the drivers switch. Have you ever taken them apart and looked inside? I've found 2 major failure points....


1. Dirt collecting in the contacts (as previously stated)



2. The plastic housing that holds the 2 pronged actuator breaking, making it impossible to apply the correct pressure to activate the system.



Its easy to take apart. Do so and see whats there. There are new switches available...for a price (http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=66-350A-FB05)
If you clean the contacts, be gentle. If you sand them they will go bad sooner. Electrical Cleaner works well.

 

Why does the inside of your window switch not look like mine?

Mine is just a circuit board with 2 white boxes on them. The boxes are the actual levers.

Srsly. Looks NOTHING like what you posted a picture of.


And I know the plastic part breaks a lot. But that's not the problem in this case.

 

well if your switchs work then stop then it aint your wiring. its your switchs and you need better ones, or clean them like this guy is telling you. i dont know how many switchs ive cleaned and just needed better ones because stock are cheap.(hence reason they put them in)

 

You need to wire in 2 relays per switch. I got this diagram from another member (Icemark) a long time ago but never put it to use. Maybe this could be of some help to you. He also showed me how to do the same for my head lights.

 

Did you quit reading halfway through? If you cleaned and relubed, then fine. You are half-way there.

You are buying old used up switches that are inadequate to carry the load. In the FC, the entire current of the window motor goes through the switch. This is a poor design, because the contacts arc with each use and eventually burn out. Buying used switches just buys you someone else's problem that is bout to burn out. Add the relays and your problems are over.

Some one else even posted a wiring diagram.

Hope you read the entire post this time.

Good luck.

 

Title edited... no profanity in thread titles!

 

The switch in the picture is an S4 86-88 drivers switch. If you are having problems with the 10AE then it should look the same. You might could have bought a S5 switch, they plug right in, I've never taken apart a S5 switch, maybe they look totally different, someone let us kow.

 

S5 and S4 switches are entirly different. S4 switches have the metal heavy duty contacts and rockers, while the S5 switches are these lame *** slider switches with tabs that break right off.