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The frankenstein motor (pics inside)

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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 09:57 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by D Walker
Get rid of that Home Depot crap, it will melt with the heat and lead to a lot of fun some night when it blows out. Use only good silicone or high-temp rubber hoses. Y0u can get high temp rubber hose from NAPA(most of the time they wont know they have it, but they do for commercial trucks etc) and silicone hose froma variety of sources. Also, dont use muffler tubing or any other mild steel tubing for the charge pipes, as the turbo compresses the air the hot/cold cycles lead to condensation, which rusts the pipes internally, which oddly enough finds its way into the motor. Stainless steel or aluminum tubing is the best answers for charge piping.
well now that you mention it I was going today to get some hi-temp hose from Orielys, radiator hose maybe? And yes your right about it melting, chuck had some on the outlet of his turbo with a simmilar setup and it mostly melted, but did hold up for a while.
But thanks for the imput on the steel tubing, I had'ent really thought of that, if I do end up useing it I'll take it apart periodically and check the inside wall. Rust would be bad for the motor.
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Old Jan 16, 2007 | 10:09 PM
  #77  
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Not much updates at the moment, he is just trying to put some miles on the motor before the MSquirt comes in. Then we will start getting it tuned. Then there will be some more videos with that good thing called boost.

Also i am working on a way to control the aux ports with a simple choke cable
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 12:26 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Rx7_Nut13B
Also i am working on a way to control the aux ports with a simple choke cable


Why not just T them into a boosted line and run them off the turbo pressure? Turbo hits 4.5 psi, aux ports open, under 4.5 they close.



BC
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 02:21 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by anewconvert
Why not just T them into a boosted line and run them off the turbo pressure? Turbo hits 4.5 psi, aux ports open, under 4.5 they close.



BC

Look at the photos, there is no room for the stock actuators... he's gonna have fun making a simple mechanical cable arrangement fit in there.

It's a NA lower intake manifold witout 6PI actuators, and a turbo butted right up against it.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 04:31 AM
  #80  
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Just like pengarufoo said the big problem is that the turbo doesnt allow the actuators to fit anymore, with all these turbo NA's you must remove the actuators.

So it is mech or nothing at all, and this is pointless if you want to keep the ports working with the bridges.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 06:49 PM
  #81  
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Ah, I see.

BC
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 08:36 PM
  #82  
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maybe we can relocate the actuators? The idea of having them boost activated is a good one. IDK though, we'll probably stick with plan A
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 08:54 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by philiptompkins
maybe we can relocate the actuators? The idea of having them boost activated is a good one. IDK though, we'll probably stick with plan A

I would continue on the cable actuation route, if you get that working it's trivial to automate it. You can do something as simple as rig a cruise control vacuum actuator which is already prepared to drive a cable, just put a RPM activated switch in for controlling it.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by pengarufoo
I would continue on the cable actuation route, if you get that working it's trivial to automate it. You can do something as simple as rig a cruise control vacuum actuator which is already prepared to drive a cable, just put a RPM activated switch in for controlling it.

Or use a wastegate actuator...



BC
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 08:42 PM
  #85  
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300miles now, still running great.

Just had a fuel leak from 2 injectors, i used the o-rings that were on the injectors when i removed them, and i guess they started to dry rot.
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Old Jan 20, 2007 | 10:44 AM
  #86  
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400 miles now and the megasquirt just came in yesterday so now we have to figure out how to make the MS harness one with the FC harness (this in not a PnP MS :-o
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Old Jan 20, 2007 | 11:49 AM
  #87  
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looks and sounds very good. i can't wait to see it with some boost.
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Old Jan 20, 2007 | 12:20 PM
  #88  
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Philip, I just made my own harness and used the attached image as a guide. I took the connector out of the ECU and hacked up the old harness to use for the ign, +12V, and fuel pump. Basically my harness can be swapped with a stock one, and vice versa if need be.
Attached Thumbnails The frankenstein motor (pics inside)-mazda-wiring.jpg  
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Old Jan 20, 2007 | 03:13 PM
  #89  
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It's easy to set up the auxiliary ports to work without having the actuators in their original locations. You actually only need one of them. Run a bicycle brake cable between both rods and run it through the actuator itself. It can be anywhere you need it to be. Just make sure your cable routing will allow it to pull. You will need to make a small plate that has a vacuum nipple on it and bolt the actuator to it. Run a vacuum line to the manifold. If the sleeves do not rotate back to their closed position, set up a set of small return springs like on a carburator. Just get creative. It'll work. It wouldn't be the first time someone moved an actuator and kept the sleeves working.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 07:09 PM
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PHil,

are you planning on being at DGRR this year? Im considering stripping apart a blown S5 TII to turbo my Aux bridge NA and would like to get a ride in your car to see what my impressions of it are. Would be great to take a look at the car while I was at it.


BC
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 11:11 PM
  #91  
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Well the motor has about 750 miles on it, still running no boost on the Stock NA ECU.

Soon we will get the MS installed and see what we can do.

Also i have made another set of Bridge Ported 6 Port Irons (Front and Rear only) that i am wanting to sell, i am thinking about 350 plus 25 shipping for the two Irons.

I dont think that is to much for the Irons, hell normal street porting costs is like 300 without the Irons

But i am up for offers!!!









Here is a Video of the ports Close to Open http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eC037P88VGE
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 11:28 PM
  #92  
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by anewconvert
PHil,

are you planning on being at DGRR this year? Im considering stripping apart a blown S5 TII to turbo my Aux bridge NA and would like to get a ride in your car to see what my impressions of it are. Would be great to take a look at the car while I was at it.




BC
this might be a Noob question but what is DGRR? If you see my car around just flag me down and i'll give any rotorhead a ride.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 01:54 AM
  #93  
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Deals Gap Rotary Rally. Its in April, late april. 310 turns in an 11 mile stretch of road. i swear to you it is worth any drive, especially if you are in flat as the ocean Houston.

See the event forum for details.

BC
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 08:43 AM
  #94  
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so... the s4 turbo mani and s4 NA manifold have no clearance issues with each other? fantastic! I was told otherwise but now that I see it, boss
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 09:40 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by fidelity101
so... the s4 turbo mani and s4 NA manifold have no clearance issues with each other? fantastic! I was told otherwise but now that I see it, boss
The S4 turbo and stock exhaust manifold will not fit on the NA block with the stock NA lower intake. Even if you shave the lower intake, it still will not have enough clearance. It will have to be spaced out with either an exhaust spacer or custom manifold.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
The S4 turbo and stock exhaust manifold will not fit on the NA block with the stock NA lower intake. Even if you shave the lower intake, it still will not have enough clearance. It will have to be spaced out with either an exhaust spacer or custom manifold.
ah so it was true.

sweet build though, get some videos after its broken in!
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 11:27 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
The S4 turbo and stock exhaust manifold will not fit on the NA block with the stock NA lower intake. Even if you shave the lower intake, it still will not have enough clearance. It will have to be spaced out with either an exhaust spacer or custom manifold.
He is correct, if you look closly at the engine bay pics of my car earlyer in this thread you will see where the turbo or the W/G actuator did not really clear the engine bay so we had to make the engine bay a little bigger because we spaced it out line 1.5 inches or something
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 11:40 AM
  #98  
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So big phillip is this monster going to make the next meeting (feb 6)?
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 09:38 PM
  #99  
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He has been driving it every where!!!

I dont think his other FC has seen the road in a few weeks

I think i am going to ride up to the next meeting with him.

O if anyone has a 90 degree intercooler coupler, he will need one soon
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 02:30 AM
  #100  
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Well we tried to get the Mega Squirt to work with no luck, I have no clue what is going wrong, i am a big time Power FC guy so i thought i could figure out what is going wrong......NOT

Phil needs some one that nows what is going on. PM me or Phil and i will give you a phone number to call so we can talk.

We are trying to hook the MegaSquirt with Spark up to a CAS that we modded with the 2 missing teeth setup. Just can get the MS to see any RPM off the CAS

PLEASE HELP!!!! US

Well anyways i had to take some time for my own project, got this far in about 4 hours


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