Well i think the problem is going to be the fuel system like Phil said, It is sad that I have been stuck at work.

I will be off Friday, and the Megasquit should be in by Friday also.

 

This sounds like an interesting idea. I can't wait to hear it run.

 

Well after alot of talking on the phone with phil and trying to find out what the problem is over the phone. I have come down to an electrical problem with the injectors or ECU

Got power to the injectors
No Injector (Neg) Pluse from the ECU
Got spark to the plugs

So it is eather a wiring problem in the harness or the ecu is bad

The grounds are good and the injectors are good also.

We shall see today, i will be over there around noon, look for videos of it running tonight

 

:starfox voice: Good Luck :/starfox voice:

BC

 

That's some nice work there! I agree with what has been said about stock turbo...You'll spool it at less then 2K easily with the bridge open but it will very quickly run out of air up top. Don't let anyone tell you that bridgeports make no low end or are crappy around town...It's not true and the only time it is an issue is when you are using a carb (yuck).

Make sure to send me a PM to get this thread into the projects topic:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=608165

 

I will do that Aaron when i get it done

 

Well it is done and SHOULD run, but it don't. I'm having a fuel problem and I think the injectors are not opening. Chuck (Rx7 nut) put 4 10 ohm 1 Watt (i think) resistors in the harness in order to use low imp. T2 primeries and GSL-SE secondaries. After testing the injectors and power side of the injector plugs I then cut the resistors out of the primary side and put the stock injectors back in that rail. Still nothing. I then tryed another ECU that I have from an 88 base, same result. I know the ignition is working beacause it fires up willingfuly on starting fluid, then dies. I know the fuel pump is running and the fuel rails are getting fuel, fuel pours out of the rails everytime I take it apart. Both black gorund wires are grounded...
The good news: Chuck (Rx7 Nut) is on the way over with plenty of his own test equipment and is very confedint (100% shure) that we'll get it running tonight. WooT! Both me and him will keep ya'll updated with future progress (or lack there of).
But on a happy note the motor seems really good, its just a fuel/electrical problem thats holding the project up now.

 

Here is a for sure way to tell. Pull the injector, point it away from the engine, and try to start the car. If it shoots fuel everywhere, it works.


BC

 

good news yet?

 

um... no, thats srgnt pepper.


anyways, goodlicuk with the megasquirt.

 

LOL. I was referencing the game. But you are right.


BC

 

Drummmmmmmmm Rolllllllll Please



It is running, Running pig rich but still running

Well it only took me about 10min to find the problem with the Fuel, Lets just say i will let phil tell this story. I dont want to make him feel even bad. Lets just say that we have confirmed that not much fuel will not go backwards through the fuel pressure req. Enuff said.........

As promised here is a 2:30AM video shot of the engine running after trying to rig the turbo piping up, but i didnt have enuff parts on hand, so we just wanted to hear it run for a wile. The turbo system will be completed before the car sees any driving, dont want to hurt that turbo.

With the ports open it sounds like a dam diesel, or that could be the huge gap in the exhuast

PHIL IS IN NEED OF A STOCK TURBO II DOWNPIPE, HOOK HIM UP WITH A PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37rRMI5QZIY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJsYg1KgUDs

It sounds really good for only having a few min of running on a fresh rebuild, i am just all way scared of a new motor, you no checking everything 5 6 7 times just to make sure, and if i could watch the Oil and Water the entire time i would.

It is really hard to start at the moment, i think this is do to the 550 primarys and and fresh rebuild, it is just flooding prone right now. But idle's great after you get it fired up. Another problem I found is that the Trailing coils were not firing at first and are intermited. I think this car is going to be one of thows wiring grimlan nightmares.


I have all ready had one person ask about making him a template with this aux bridge on it, If you are intrested please Pm me. I also have 3 motors that i am going to take apart and port the irons and sell them on here. It is going to take a week or two before i will have them done. I don't rush on porting, Am i right phil !!

All right bring on the comments


And it is kinda said, now i will have to start my 3rd gen projects........ O WAIT... That is'nt said that GREAT

 

-Why did you extend your exhaust port closing if your have a turbo?
-Won't the air-fuel charge short circuit to the exhaust when your exh. close and int. open overlap?
-Wouldn't delaying the exhaust closing more just increase the problem?

I didn't read every post. I just looked at all the pictures. Everything looks very nice, you do very good work. Good luck with the rest of the project.

 

Well i am just going to post what they have on the Rotaryengineillustrated website

http://rotaryengineillustrated.com/h...ts-intake.html

Since the port goes all the way out to the trochoid surface, there is significant overlap with the exhaust port, reducing low-RPM power in favor of significant power gains in the high-RPM range (5,000+).


This is about the best way i can explain it, also the exhaust port is ported from a racing template from Mazdatrix.

 

yup yup, I hooked the fuel times up wrong. I read on there where that could be a problem (o rly) then I thought about the times that I took it apart and I clearly remember fuel pouring out of the fuel rails when I took them back off. I then assumes te injectors were getting fuel (wrong), aparently SOME fuel does slip by the FPR in reverse but not enough to matter.

 

OH, another question: I am having exauhst ploblems because of the whole convertible thing. Chuck made an adapter so the turbo would fit the stock exauhst but it does not clear that huge covertable cross member. Would a turbo DP clear that? does anyone here have a turbo vert?

 

It's the easiest thing in the book bro for some turbo-vert exhaust, I used to dabble with those FC3C conversions. I used a stock JDM downpipe (no precats at all) and it cleared the extra vert crossmemeber with no problems at all. IF you are using an s4 turbocharger (sorry I couldn't read the whole 5page thread) the twinscroll canister WILL hit your vert crossmember. I simply just switched to a stock s5 turbo manifold. The 2.5" racingbeat TURBO downpipe will clear the crossmembe aswell, if you want a 3" dp though you will have to notch out your vert crossmember. For me, a full 2.5 inch exhaust along with an Electronic Boost Controller is all I would ever need (I'm not tooo greedy for hp .

 

prob another reason we never got turbo verts was because of the precats not clearing that crossmember

 

I was under the impression it would compromise performance throughout the rpm band. Thanks for clearing that up.

 

Hay all

Well Phil did some more work on the car, but this time at my place, thats right he drove it for the first time almost 40 miles one way with no problems

It is starting really good now, i think the motor is starting to get some high compression numbers so it helps with the flooding.

Also I am NO WHY involved in this turbo pipe routing, Phil likes it but i am like

Also if no one caught the cork for a oil filler cap here is a close up doing things right if you can half *** them

Next post will be with more videos

 

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0oTI5SG6DM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABeHHSf2ZpA

 

Just wanted to explain one thing about the piping, he wants people to look under the hood and not see the turbo stuff. Well people that dont no rotaries.

He will jump on here and explain some more

 

ok, so I got to keep the stock air box (WOOT!) and run all the piping down the same side. I used some coupelers from the sewage department of home depot racing to hook the stock air intake pipe to an FD intake pipe that chuck had laying around, well you get the idea. The point is that we made it work with not enough parts. It ran badass for a while on the way home then it did'nt want to idle, vaccume leak? (no ****). We also got the OMP controll rod stuck on wide open and are running about a 75:1 premix (just for break in). I got my fingers crossed with those RA apex seals, I've read that they like to tear up housings so I figure the better lubrication the better off i'll be.

 

Get rid of that Home Depot crap, it will melt with the heat and lead to a lot of fun some night when it blows out. Use only good silicone or high-temp rubber hoses. Y0u can get high temp rubber hose from NAPA(most of the time they wont know they have it, but they do for commercial trucks etc) and silicone hose froma variety of sources. Also, dont use muffler tubing or any other mild steel tubing for the charge pipes, as the turbo compresses the air the hot/cold cycles lead to condensation, which rusts the pipes internally, which oddly enough finds its way into the motor. Stainless steel or aluminum tubing is the best answers for charge piping.