Hi guys,

I need to change the rear eccentric seal. This will be my first time removing the clutch & flywheel. Could anyone link a "how to" thread (Searched)? If there is no such thread I will attempt to make a detailed one for the archive. To create such a thread I will need a list of parts needed and a description or photos of what not to touch while I'm back there

Thanks,
Sean

 

Pretty simple process. Drop the transmission, and inspect the clutch and flywheel. Might be a good time to replace it if you haven't ever had to. Might not have to though. The flywheel nut is a BITCH. It's torqued to 350ft/lbs. You will need a breaker bar with a piece of pipe on the end, or a good impact gun. If using the breaker bar method, you have to find a way to hold the flywheel stationary. I used a long piece of metal with holes drilled in it to match the clutch mounting studs, wedged against the underbody. Some people jam miscellaneous things behind the flywheel. Whatever you gotta do. Mazdatrix sells a special tool for this purpose. Impact is your best bet though. You will also need a special socket. I think it's 34mm. I got one at sears for like $20.

Once you break the nut loose, screw it on a few threads. Using a prybar, pry against one side of the flywheel. Place a piece of wood against the other side and whack it with a baby sledge. Turn the flywheel a bit and repeat until it pops off. For the love of god make sure that not is screwed on a few threads. That flywheel could mess you up if it falls off.

Thats from my experience anyway.

 

Thanks

 

Make sure that when you whack the flywheel you do not hit the wearing surface, other wise you get a blemish that will cause trouble later.

I used a 16# hammer flywheel rang like the Liberty Bell and popped right off.

 

the Socket is FIFTY FOUR mm.(54mm) ..or 2-1/8 Inch...not 34mm as mentioned above.(simple booboo!)

 

Yep, just like everyone above has said, after the flywheel is removed use a small screwdriver or a pick and gently pry the rear seal out. Make sure the flywheel mating surface (where the flywheel and seal sit together) is clean. I use some emory paper and gently polish if there is any rust build up, then apply a very small amount of lube (engine oil, engine assembly lube or petroleum jelly) to the flywheel stub you just cleaned and to both sides of the new rear seal. Then gently tap the seal in place working all around the seal in a circular motion until its fully seated. Reinstall flywheel and the rest.

 

Keep in mind that there is also an o-ring that goes around the stationary gear on the opposide side, (engine side).

Alot of times this o-ring fails and gets misdiagnosed as a failed rear main seal. If you see oil between the rear iron and the stationary gear, it may be worth pulling the gear out and replacing the o-ring. The gear will come out with some persuasion with a crowbar or a big flathead screwdriver. DO NOT turn the engine while the gear is out, or you will have a heck of a time getting it back in.

 

34mm, 54mm... I was only off by 20mms... lol

 

It's worth pointing out that if you check the FAQ, you will find a lot of links on how to remove the flywheel. It's a very common question.

 

I clicked on the FAQ section and typed both flywheel and flywheel removal into the search and it did not give me anything!

 

So easy, even a girl can do it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=erXefDbfrLA