phoenix7

still wanna see the dynosheets. What's your HP: $ ratio?



congrats on doing/finishing what most people fail/give up trying. I'd never do it but props.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

thanks guys. yea, i didnt mean to insult the community. we have one of the best forums (compared to one's i've been on. i love it, even when ppl are jerks. amuses the hell out of me.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

phoenix7: thanks bro. i'm gonna get it dynoed once the bigger pulley and better fpr get put on. supposedly the current pulley will overspin the belt once the engine hits 5500 rpm, thus killing the s/c. so dynoing after that change is made is crucial. im not really sure what my hp is at rite now. the nelson brosure that i got with the other instructions says 216hp for and s4 (supposedly 236 for an s5). another guy on one of the numerous websites (dont really remember which) that i have looked at over the last few months posted a dyno sheet with like 224hp i think? he only had an intake setup. since this is all i have as well, i believe im somewhere between the two (216 and 224). thats a 70hp or 48% gain over the stock s4 n/a (146hp) and like 20 or 30 hp over the s4 tII (184hp?). this is primarily why i went this route. i believed it would be easier than doin a n/a to TII swap (even though it is much more documented). and if i had an s5 an nothing needed customizing than it would have been alot easier. although i have never done a n/a to TII swap, i still believe what i did was easier. the only advantage in my eyes is the power potential. although this supercharger puts me above even a stock s5 turbo in the hp department, it cannot be modded much more for power other than an exhaust and ecu for tuning. in contrast, a turbo is highly flexible and has huge potential for power gains. since my plan wasn't to have a dyno queen or drag car however, the supercharger seemed a better option for me. i am only shooting for 225-250hp, not 500+. anyways, to answer your question, i guess my total cost so far is about 1700. but this is including money spent on several tools that i will have forever now, shipping on several parts, and parts that are not neccesarily needed for the fuction of the unit (corksport cone filter intake, walbro fuel pump, TII injectors, the big pulley) if i would have worked with what was given to me i could have gotten away with a $30 total. for simplicity sake we'll use $1700: 70hp. so thats about $25 per 1 hp. but the joy of having something rare is so worth it.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

o and for the record: this kit and unit are meant to work on an unmodded car. this means stock air box and 3 cat exhaust. the info package even says that modding the intake/exhaust can causes engine detonation (because of all the extra air and no extra fuel resulting in extremely lean conditions). this is why i put on the walbro and 550cc injectors since i planned on using the cone filter and my next mod is exhaust. i remeber someone asking to let everyone kno my gas mileage when i first started this thread. my fuel effeciency has taken a big hit due to the new fuel pump and injectors. i believ im getting about 15 or 16mpg city driving where as before i think i got around 21mpg. but again, this is with the upgraded fuel system. the nelson broshure i have states that idle and fuel mileage should remain the same when you keep your intake and exhaust (and consequently your fuel system) stock.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

i know this thread has been dead for a little while but i'm giving it an update! over the past couple weeks i have been slowly saving up some money to get the parts i needed. a few days ago i started having problems with my altenator and needed a new one. since the local import parts store needed to order it (o, and do you guys know mitsubishi makes our altenators? theres a mitsu stamp on the back and its even shown in the fsm) i figure i'd get some other stuff while the car was MIA anyways. so i took the 3.75'' s/c pulley to my grandfather's old machine shop and got the back milled out so it would line up properly. i thought i'd get a good price but my grandpa's ex-boss did it for free so that was sweet. then i also got a turboxs BOV, boost and afr gauges, a-pillar dual gauge pod and a vortech rising rate fpr. still waiting for that last one to come in. can't wait to hook all this stuff up! i'll post when that happens...(hopefully sat. or sun. or both). i still plan on doing a "completion" thread once everything is finished and get it dynoed, but since this is still part of the "build-up" i posted here. enjoy.

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

you need some outside footage with a flyby or something...those vids were too small

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

hey! someone posted! all the new stuff is installed and the car is running great (just a little rich tho). i just didn't bother to take more photos or videos since i thought no one was keeping up...i have a friend who likes to make those kool videos you see on you tube with music and video effects and stuff and i'm trying to get him to help me make one. will keep the forum updated. also i had my first kills in this car last week.

https://www.rx7club.com/kills-archive-229/2-ricers-fb-killed-723396/

introVert

Thrilled to see another S/C driver out there- now get a microtech, tune that extra fuel out, and throw some RB exhaust on there! You have a very similar setup to mine, and a lighter car to boot (damn heavy 'vert!). Sweet job- you have any pics of the BOV installed? I am running a GReddy type RS- just wanna see how you plumbed it in...

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

i can get a pic tommorrow before work (by the time i get home today it will be pitch black). i have it welded right onto the intake elbow, the one that says "supercharged by nelson". you?

anewconvert

iTrader: (1)

Standalone and methanol injection are going to be your friend IMO. Cooler intake and the advantage of a little extra fuel in the mix. Add in the full exhaust and you are looking at a rather fun car.

A different option on the standalone would be to wire in an S4 TII ecu and get an RTEK 2.0. Would cost less than a full standalone, but give you complete control over fuel and timing and wouldnt require hacking up the harness... much. Just a few wires and sensors to add and subtract.


BC

84stock

iTrader: (5)

That sounds like a great suggestion, something worth looking into!

introVert

Yep- welded the flange to the apex of the elbow, pointing towards where my cruise control and sub -zero canister USED to be

introVert

Oh yeah, and I see you are running Faze gauges- I have the boost and AFR you have pictured, plus the water temp as well (water temp and boost on the a-pillar, AFR below the stereo). I would suggest going with an FD alt since you are replacing it anyhow. You would have to re-wire it (plug is different) and bore the pulley out to 17mm to fit (search forum for FD alt conversion for details). It is totally worth it, esp. since we have a bit of added electrical load with the trans pump for the supercharger, and given the sketchy nature of the s4's charging system. Just my $.02

introVert

Methanol? First you talk about saving money on the standalone, then talk about methanol injection- you know those setups are spendy, right? I would go the other way- water injection and the microtech, which you can use to do things like open your aux ports (instead of exhaust backpressure, which he could no longer do with full exhaust) and cycle off your a/c under boost (i think he's still running power steering and a/c?!?)

I guess it depends on what his goals are, though.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

anewconvert/84stock: i have been playing around with what i wanted to do in the way of engine management and exhaust. i am definately going to run at least a catback. originally i wanted a full exhaust, but it ultimately depends on my overall plans for the car. currently there are no emissions in my area, but there have been talks that there could be within a few years.....so if i'm gonna run it as a street car then the exhaust plans i had are scrapped. also, there is the issue of the 6pi system. on the s4 its actuated by the exhaust back pressure. im not sure of all the detail but from what i can gather, with a very free-flowing exhaust, your actuation of the 5th/6th ports suffers. of course there are ways around that, but i'm not sure what i wanna do. as far as engine management, a standalone would be awesome, but then theres the money issue, which again goes back to how far do i wanna take the car? i dont really wanna poor a whole lot more into a car if i can only take it up to 65mph anyway, but if it becomes a teack car (which i have thought about due to the fc's not-so-great fuel efficiancy) then maybe its worth it. as far as for the street, i had thought about possibly a piggy-back on the current ecu for maximum bolt-on-ness. any ideas or input? i'm not too familiar with the different systems and their compatability or success with the fc. anyway, thanks for all the input so far.

introvert- yea, i already replaced the altenator....it seems fine so far, hopefully it will last. also, thats cool that we have the same gauges, how is your afr gauge, mines a little glitchy and im not sure if its the gauge or the connections or the O2 sensor or what? when i start the car, it reads lean and slowly goes up to slightly rich once the car is warmed up. then as i drive it bounces all around and even cuts off from time to time for a few seconds. only when i come to a stop will it stabilize. if i drive it cold tho it will act as i would expect it to: stay at one light and quickly fall and rise back when i shift, as well as making slight changes in response to throttle inputs. any ideas?

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

also, where did you run the boost line from the gauge through the firewall? i had to drill a whole.....

introVert

That is normal for the narrowband AFR- the "rainbowing" effect is the car going into closed loop- useful for fuel efficiency if you keep it there while cruising. And the o2 sensor does have to "warm up" before it reads accurately. Mine does the same thing. I ran the boost line through the firewall where the driver side harness passes through- just pushed through the rubber grommet with a coathanger first from the engine side, and taped the bourdon tube to it and pulled it through along with my lead for the water temp gauge (also on the A pillar). I drilled and tapped the water pump housing to accept the temp sensor (still retained the stock setup) and ran the boost line to a vac nipple on the back of the intake.

introVert

Here's my setup.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

well i'm relieved to kno that the afr is normal. man your setup is clean as hell! i like the "RX-7" thing uder the stereo. the drivers harness goeas through by the clutch right? did you have to remove any of the dash/ gauge surround?

introVert

Nope, just contorted myself up under the dash

The RX-7 logo is backlit blue when the dash lights come on- it matches all my gauges perfectly. Just bought a set of blue LED's and wired them in to the cig. lighter illum wire, and siliconed them into place. Stock dimmer works on all aux gauges as well.

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

yea, i have mine wired in the same way (i.e. cigarette lighter) to be able to control the dimmer effects. nice pics tho. sometime soon i'm gonna get another nicer video to post

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

i officially have my first boost leak...if any of you guys remember, i showed a pic a while back of the intake elbow that runs between the s/c and the throttle body. mine came with 2 small outlets on the bottom, only one of which is used on the s4. so i jb welded it shut (as shown in the pic). well last night i was driving home and heard a small "pop" sound, but nothing afterwards except the sound of air. this morning i checked it out and i have infact blown open that jb welded spot. next day off(wends.) i plan on taking it off and tapping the whole to put a bolt in. its just sad that i can't reach full boost till then.....

phoenix7

Why not have a welder do it and you can forget about it?

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

true, but i'd still have to the elbow off, rendering it undrivable and go to a welder to get it done( it's made of aluminum, and i dont have access to a MIG/TIG [not sure which is needed], only an arc welder) in contrast, i have taps, one of which i'm sure will work, and lots of bolts. would there be any advantage to welding it shut vs bolting it shut? or also, would a vac nipple work (i have lots of different ones) or would 10-12 max psi blow that off?

introVert

Tap and thread seems easiest. Use the red locktite on it. Did you prep the inside of the nipple before JB'ing it? I used a dremel with a tapered bit to rough the inside up and then filled it completely with JB, then smoothed out the little bit that mushroomed into the main part of the elbow. I have boosted to 10# and no problems.