yea, i had used a dremel as well. i think it was just the mixture beacause it did take longer to dry then normal and was a bit soupy, guess there wan't enought hardener, but i tried several different mixtures and used the best. i think the problem was that it was an off brand version? i'm not sure. regardless, im tapping and boltiong that **** up!

 

when's the dyno?

You can't really base performance on cars you can beat in NA form. Props, again, on finishing it though. What's next?

 

introvert- what size tap did you use?
phoenix- dyno hopefully coming soon. i am a little worried tho. i know that i had solid compression numbers prior to putting in the s/c (refer to page 1), but i cant help but be a little apprehensive after all the vids out there of blown engines on dynos and the rotary's reputation. thanks for the kudos, and i'm not really sure whats next. originally i was going to change the whole exhaust from the headers back, but like i said a few posts back, this will pose problems for the 6port system. so i think for now the next thing is just a to pay off some credit cards to make room for suspension overhaul!

 

i must give you props you fc looks awesome

 

Well, start with a really rich tune and work your way to max power. Just be careful or have someone who has tuned rotaries before. As far as the exhaust: RB true duals for stock ports or collected header system for ported motor. You can't go wrong with RB and your 6 port system will be fully functional.

Doing the suspension first sounds good. You have a wideband and/or EGT system to make sure you don't lean out the rear rotor or preignite due to cooling issues?

 

If you're worrying about the ports not opening because of a lack of back pressure, you have an easy solution with your setup.

The actuators work off of pressure, and your supercharger creates pressure

So, connect the tube from the actuator to a vaccuum hose that will see boost and you can connect a bleed valve inline to fine tune when the actuators open.

BTW, great work on your project!

Vince

 

blackcatmafia- thanks
phoenix- i like the new avatar. also, i kno that rb makes parts that have the split air pipe, but even with that, without cats the 5th and 6th ports will still open later/not fully due to lack of back pressure (at least this is what i'm gathering from other threads i have read. could be wrong tho). if the rb header/presilencer for s4s (has the split air pipe) will be able to actuate the 6pi system like stock then that would be my avenue of choice. and there's not really any rotary vehicles in my area, let alone rotary shops. i think the nearest is in NoVA or NC maybe. but it will get done!!! o, and i have a narrowband for now.
project87- that is an interesting idea, like i said, im not sure what i will do about that, but i'm also looking at using the air pump since that mod has been heavily documented. thanks for the support

 

small update: i removed the intake elbow, cleaned the jb weld out of the hole and tapped it. then put a bolt in and put the elbow back on. thats all. any opinions on the 6pi actuation issue and/or engine management?

 

I forgot it was an S4 but the RB system is specifically made for the rotary so you can be sure the auxiliary ports will be functional.

As far as Narrow band, you should invest in a better monitoring system to make sure you're taking full advantage of your mods and that you're not getting dangerously lean.

ECU? Depends.
Can you blow 1000+ on a standalone?
Interested in the Megasquirt?

E-mail the people at R-tek and see what your options would be with their chips. I don't know how you would choose the right chip. You have an NA but it's FI so you can't use the NA version but it's not a TII so the turbo chip might not work. Just email them.

and the avatar is better than the crow i had before. It was the closest thing to a phoenix until now.

 

http://racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?PartNumber=16128

 

oOo.....you meant the ACTUAL dual exhaust. i thought you meant the dual outlet. that could be an option, but its just so much weight! also, i plan on switching to wideband depending on what i'm doing with the car in the long run. which, as i said before, i'm not sure of yet. the great condition of the body and interior, as well as the complete function of all accessories (pwr sunroof, pwr windows, radio,theft deterant system, etc) with the exception of the a/c, is making it very hard for me to dedicate this as a track car. plus i already have another project in waiting (85 celica supra). all of this is making me lean towards a modded street car. so no, i definately am not willing to put down the money for a standalone, by engine management i was really thinking of piggy-back systems. as i said before, i'm not familiar at all with these units, so input on which one's you guys think would be good for my application is much appreciated. also, i did think about the Rtek chips as well as they seemed the most "bolt-on-able", but i came to the same conclusions as you....

 

no comments on a good piggy-back for my setup?

also, after i bolted up that hole, i noticed that my BOV was opening under acceleration at about 3~4psi. to solve this i put in different numbers of the spacers(washers) that were included in the event that i needed to increase the spring tension. after a little testing i found that with 4 washers, the piston on the BOV opens slightly (thus releasing air) under heavy boost (~8psi), but will still release at as little as 3psi when i shift. however, when i put the 5th washer in, the BOV stays closed throughout accelaration even at 10 psi, and only release when the throttle is suddenly closed (i.e. shifting). this is what i wanted. but when i went to drive it i noticed that it wont open if there is less than about 4psi when i shift. i'm a little stuck as i do not want to have to rev up to 5+psi everytime i shift to get it to blow off (as i don't want the air to pass back into the s/c), but at the same time i don't want it to be leaking out at 8+psi when i'm pushing it (unless this is normal). when i was thinking about if it could potentially harm the s/c i realized that the original unit didnot have a BOV or bypass, so maybe having the 5 washers in there was ok? any ideas, opinions, or thoughts on this?

 

safc neo?

 

what are differences between the safc neo and the safc II? big price leap? also, any ideas about the BOV situation? introvert, where you at fellow s/c'ed fc owner?!!

 

Sorry, been trolling. I am running the GReddy type RS BOV, uses a different method of adjustment than yours, so can't help there. The BOV leaking at 8+ psi will not hurt the s/c, just limit your boost.

 

o i kno that leaking won't hert it, i'm asking if it will be harmful to run it w/ 5 washers (i.e. NOT leaking, but not blowing off unless i'm hitting at least 4~5psi. in other words, during normal driving, i shift at ~2500rpm, which is when i am starting to hit boost (3 psi in 1st gear, 2 in 2nd, and just hitting boost in 3rd). this means that it is NOT blowing off (or if it is, it is extremely quiet. will this harm the s/c?

 

Since the original setup was without a blowoff valve at all, and the blower maxed at ~5 psi, I would say no harm would come to the SC with this setup.

 

awesome, that was what i was thinking/hoping.

as for the piggy-back issue, i am leaning toards the safc (although this might not be for a while) since it seems to be one of the most tried and true time-tested systems. anyone know what installation involves? plug n play? wire hacking? also, any good rotary tuners in my area (SE Virginia)?

 

Can't help ya there, bro- i'm using a microtech lt8, cause I got one from a forum member, plus my local tuner (mazsport) is a dealer and knows em inside and out. Find out who the local tuners are, and what they are familiar with, and go with that.

 

guess that would be a good plan. thanks. btw, that was an awesome 4th qtr we just witnessed.

 

well You can find an SAFC pretty cheap on E-Bay.

found this via search:


https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...44&postcount=8
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...6&postcount=12

 

http://www.alamomotorsports.com/apexi/safc.html

Installation is pretty straight forward, just make sure the harness is correct side up. You need to find the installation manuals online (if it doesn't come with the unit you buy) and make sure you have the updates for the installation.

 

thanks for all the info. the car is running great as of now, so i'll post up when it gets dyno'ed (hopefully within the next 2 weeks) but i might also wait untill i can get a piggy-back, which will probably be when i get my tax return. also, as stated prior, i have a friend that i convinced to help make a small video, but we are holding off untill we get footage from the dyno. once that happens i'm gonna make a new thread with all the stats (rwhp, gas mileage, all associated parts, max boost, UN-official 1/4 mile time, etc) with pics and the video. once again, thanks for all the support guys, if anything comes up, i know i can come here.

 

Been following this thread. Wouldn't the Rtek7 work well with the Nelson setup where mods beyond the supercharger are minimal?

http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.ph...age=2&ecu=S4NA

Its seems to be plug and play where fuel and timing are programable and it has presets for the injectors. What am I missing?

 

jpd3253: yes, the rtek is still a possibility. i'm gonna try to get in touch with whatever some-what-local rotary tuners i can find and get some suggestions from them. thanks for the link and support