FC Aftermarket Stereo Question
06-06-11, 06:58 PM
#1
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FC Aftermarket Stereo Question
I have the following in my convertible:
- Stock front speakers
- Stock door speakers
- Stock headrest speakers (approx 2.5")
- No amps, no stock headrest speaker controls
- Aftermarket relay for the stock power antenna
My JVC KD-AHD39 head unit with SRS surround sound has the following outputs:
- 4 regular speaker leads (RF, LF, RR, LR), 20W/channel, 4-8ohm allowance
- 2 front line out RCA jacks, 5v / 20k ohm load
- 2 rear line out RCA jacks, 5v / 20k ohm load
- 2 subwoofer line out RCA jacks, 5v / 20k ohm load
(The head unit can set the subwoofer freq at 90Hz, 135Hz, or 180Hz)
I want to keep the stock speakers for now until I get the whole thing working, but I am not sure how (or if) to amp it. The internal amp can be shut off if not used for any of the 4 regular speaker leads.
The goal is just to sound decent. I am not entering any stereo blasting competitions, and I do not intend to make the whole neighborhood listen to my music. I mostly listen to heavy metal at mid-volume. I would like to keep the major components as cheap as possible because anything nice will probably get stolen, and I certainly don't want anything that looks fancy and attracts attention.
How would you guys hook this up? What else should I get? A 2-channel amp? A multi-channel amp? Subwoofers? Do you think it will work without any extra amps? Bueller?
- Stock front speakers
- Stock door speakers
- Stock headrest speakers (approx 2.5")
- No amps, no stock headrest speaker controls
- Aftermarket relay for the stock power antenna
My JVC KD-AHD39 head unit with SRS surround sound has the following outputs:
- 4 regular speaker leads (RF, LF, RR, LR), 20W/channel, 4-8ohm allowance
- 2 front line out RCA jacks, 5v / 20k ohm load
- 2 rear line out RCA jacks, 5v / 20k ohm load
- 2 subwoofer line out RCA jacks, 5v / 20k ohm load
(The head unit can set the subwoofer freq at 90Hz, 135Hz, or 180Hz)
I want to keep the stock speakers for now until I get the whole thing working, but I am not sure how (or if) to amp it. The internal amp can be shut off if not used for any of the 4 regular speaker leads.
The goal is just to sound decent. I am not entering any stereo blasting competitions, and I do not intend to make the whole neighborhood listen to my music. I mostly listen to heavy metal at mid-volume. I would like to keep the major components as cheap as possible because anything nice will probably get stolen, and I certainly don't want anything that looks fancy and attracts attention.
How would you guys hook this up? What else should I get? A 2-channel amp? A multi-channel amp? Subwoofers? Do you think it will work without any extra amps? Bueller?
06-06-11, 07:11 PM
#2
You're going to need a subwoofer to cut through all of the road noise to create a sound that's worth a darn besides going the route of separates. Kenwood makes a subwoofer that should mount right behind either seat up against the wall that is found behind the car seat. The speaker should be hidden by the car seat so it's not like it will be obvious, especially if the top is up.
06-06-11, 07:31 PM
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Just run the speaker wires to each speaker and connect them to the headunit.
You can always toss a set of 4 inch aftermarkets in the door,.
And there should be enough room to run Speakers inside the back area where the Spare is.
( I am thinkin a set of those little/mini bookshelf speakers that hold about 40 watts.)
That is until you figure out what you want set-up wise.
You can always toss a set of 4 inch aftermarkets in the door,.
And there should be enough room to run Speakers inside the back area where the Spare is.
( I am thinkin a set of those little/mini bookshelf speakers that hold about 40 watts.)
That is until you figure out what you want set-up wise.
06-06-11, 08:45 PM
#4
I wouldn't mess with an aftermarket amp until you've upgraded your speakers. You'll pop the OEM speakers with much of any power going to them. That and the OEM speakers will be the bottleneck of your system. Even if you add an amp, the sound will only sound as good as your worst piece of equipment. In this case the OEM speakers.
What I'd do for your intended goal of not spending alot is simply get a 4 channel amp to power the door and dash speakers. What I have done in the past for the headrest speakers is use my headunit rear speaker out wired directly to the driver side headrest. Screw the passenger, they don't deserve headrest speakers :P What I've used for controlling the volume of the headrest speakers is headunit fader control. You can fade it all the way to the rear for full volume to no volume. You'll be using your RCA outs for the door and dash speakers so they won't be affected by fader.
Obviously you can't do the headrest speaker fader idea until you are using an aftermarket amp.
For speakers you can fit 6" speakers in the doors. It's listed as 5 1/4" in any charts you'll look up, but there is a mounting adapter and when removed 6" speakers fit perfectly...though you'll have to punch screw holes in the door.
I'd give some serious thought to doing component speakers in the door. The door speakers sit so low that the imaging on the highs will be really bad. Even a cheap set of components will sound better than a cheap set of 2 way speakers.
I'd also invest in some sound deadening material for the doors. Just put it around where the speaker mounts to the door and it will help with the sound quality and rattling of molding. Get the cheapo stuff it works just as well as Dynamat but for much less cash. Even if you're not planning on playing loud music I'd still do sound deadening. It actually helps with the sound quality of the speaker...metal doors do not make good speaker boxes.
If you want to spend more on a sound system you can descretely hide most everything. I've owned verts for 10 yrs now and over the years I have developed a good and low key sound system. The only thing showing if you look in the car are the tweeters on the door and the head unit.
As a sidenote, I intentionally choose non-bling headunits with very few bells and whistles. I always buy my headunit at the product line just below the top line of a brand. You get the same sound quality but are without the bling and creature comforts which helps a thief to overlook your stuff and move on to the shiny stuff in the next guys car.
Anyway, I'm in the process of swapping one turbo vert into a different vert. In the old 89 vert I had door speaker components, dash speakers, and an 8" sub in a custom box under the rear panel behind the driver seat.
The new turbo vert is a 90 and it has a slightly different interior. The 90-91 verts loose the lower dash speakers. The actual dash is different and I hadn't noticed that before starting this swap. 90-91 has a removable panel below the steering wheel...but with no speaker to mount. The passenger side panel is also different and no speaker. But they gain the speakers on the floor behind the seats.
What I'm planning for the 90 turbo vert is this:
Door component speakers -6" tweeters are mounted to the mirror triangles
Lower dash speakers -4" gonna mod the lower dash on each side
Rear speakers behind the seats - 5" mod the OEM mounts if needed
Sub under the rear wind blocker panel - 8"
Headrest speakers are OEM and OEM amp and controls wired into my headunit
This turned into a long post. Only other thing I'll add is that if you do a subwoofer get a quality sub, I wouldn't go larger than an 8". I'd put it behind the driver seat..it's free space and you don't loose your trunk. The sound quality is also much better than in the trunk because it's not as muffled. Using that space with a small sub allows for tight and accurate bass.
Trying to get asphalt peeling bass out of a convertible is counterproductive. It requires too much compared to doing a system in a coupe or hatchback. You need more power, size of the sub and most importantly CASH to overcome the open air of the convertible.
What I'd do for your intended goal of not spending alot is simply get a 4 channel amp to power the door and dash speakers. What I have done in the past for the headrest speakers is use my headunit rear speaker out wired directly to the driver side headrest. Screw the passenger, they don't deserve headrest speakers :P What I've used for controlling the volume of the headrest speakers is headunit fader control. You can fade it all the way to the rear for full volume to no volume. You'll be using your RCA outs for the door and dash speakers so they won't be affected by fader.
Obviously you can't do the headrest speaker fader idea until you are using an aftermarket amp.
For speakers you can fit 6" speakers in the doors. It's listed as 5 1/4" in any charts you'll look up, but there is a mounting adapter and when removed 6" speakers fit perfectly...though you'll have to punch screw holes in the door.
I'd give some serious thought to doing component speakers in the door. The door speakers sit so low that the imaging on the highs will be really bad. Even a cheap set of components will sound better than a cheap set of 2 way speakers.
I'd also invest in some sound deadening material for the doors. Just put it around where the speaker mounts to the door and it will help with the sound quality and rattling of molding. Get the cheapo stuff it works just as well as Dynamat but for much less cash. Even if you're not planning on playing loud music I'd still do sound deadening. It actually helps with the sound quality of the speaker...metal doors do not make good speaker boxes.
If you want to spend more on a sound system you can descretely hide most everything. I've owned verts for 10 yrs now and over the years I have developed a good and low key sound system. The only thing showing if you look in the car are the tweeters on the door and the head unit.
As a sidenote, I intentionally choose non-bling headunits with very few bells and whistles. I always buy my headunit at the product line just below the top line of a brand. You get the same sound quality but are without the bling and creature comforts which helps a thief to overlook your stuff and move on to the shiny stuff in the next guys car.
Anyway, I'm in the process of swapping one turbo vert into a different vert. In the old 89 vert I had door speaker components, dash speakers, and an 8" sub in a custom box under the rear panel behind the driver seat.
The new turbo vert is a 90 and it has a slightly different interior. The 90-91 verts loose the lower dash speakers. The actual dash is different and I hadn't noticed that before starting this swap. 90-91 has a removable panel below the steering wheel...but with no speaker to mount. The passenger side panel is also different and no speaker. But they gain the speakers on the floor behind the seats.
What I'm planning for the 90 turbo vert is this:
Door component speakers -6" tweeters are mounted to the mirror triangles
Lower dash speakers -4" gonna mod the lower dash on each side
Rear speakers behind the seats - 5" mod the OEM mounts if needed
Sub under the rear wind blocker panel - 8"
Headrest speakers are OEM and OEM amp and controls wired into my headunit
This turned into a long post. Only other thing I'll add is that if you do a subwoofer get a quality sub, I wouldn't go larger than an 8". I'd put it behind the driver seat..it's free space and you don't loose your trunk. The sound quality is also much better than in the trunk because it's not as muffled. Using that space with a small sub allows for tight and accurate bass.
Trying to get asphalt peeling bass out of a convertible is counterproductive. It requires too much compared to doing a system in a coupe or hatchback. You need more power, size of the sub and most importantly CASH to overcome the open air of the convertible.
06-09-11, 09:39 PM
#5
Junior Member
Hey JustJeff! I'm so glad Evil Aviator asked that question. I basically have the same situation and wanted to know what I need. I have an 88 vert and the stock speakers all around work except in the doors. I had an auto sound guy look at them and said they don't make anything that small. Glad to know about the mounting adaptor. Great idea about the deadening material. I'm going to copy your post and give it to my sound guy to hook me up. If you have any other words of advice.... shoot!!
Thanks a lot!
Jennifer
Thanks a lot!
Jennifer
06-10-11, 09:36 AM
#6
One thing that I should mention about the deadening material on the doors. You want to remove the speaker and have the sound deadening sandwiched between the speaker and the door. Extend the deadening material out 5 or 6 inches from the speaker.
You can also look for a thread by Jackhilde about wiring the OEM headrest controls, amps and speakers into an aftermarket headunit. Follow that thread and you can have your aftermarket headunit control the headrest speakers through the OEM controls and amp.
06-10-11, 11:07 AM
#7
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/s5-stereo-install-so-%2Aeverything-works%2A-936433/
This is the thread referenced above. It is now in the 2nd gen archive.
This is the thread referenced above. It is now in the 2nd gen archive.
