Checked the green/yellow wire at the leading coil with key on and cranking the engine by hand--no voltage.
Plugged in a spare cas and turned the gear by hand with key on, no voltage.

Also tried probing the 4 CAS wires with key on-- no voltage.

Not sure what to check next.

 

Plug in the spare to the car's harness, then turn the key on. See if the tach bumps when you spin the gear on the CAS.

 

Plug in the spare cas, turn the key on, manually spin the cas gear, tach needle does not move.

 

Verify that the B/Y wire at the coil has voltage w/key to on, B/W wire at the solenoids or 4 wire green check connector next to the leading coil has voltage also w/key to on and that the Br/W wire at the Pressure Sensor has voltage w/key to on,plug disconnected.

 

b/y wire at the leading coil has voltage w key to on.
b/w wire at the blue plug solenoid has voltage w key to on.
br/w wire at pressure sensor has 4.97 volts w key on, plug disconnected.

 

On a side note, if the tach doesn't bounce it might be because the Meter fuse is bad, but if the gauges work properly then the Meter fuse is good.

Also, check to make sure the plug to the AFM is solid.

The trailing coil has a plug connected to it which has four wires. When disconnected and key to on The Brown/Yellow wire should be 4.4 volts, the Blue/Yellow wire should be 0 volts and the Blue/Red wire should be below 2 volts.

 

Brown/yellow 4.83
blue/yellow .02
blue red 11
yellow/ blue stripe .19

 

So the Blue/Red wire is 11 volts w/key to on? If so, are you sure the coil is mounted properly to the fender?

 

Are you SURE every fuse is good? Check the grounds too.

 

I would assume so. I've had the car for 13 years and have never removed either coils, but I guess anything is possible. Should I pull the coils, remount and retest the voltages?

 

All the engine and in-cabin fuses are good.

I'll double-check all the grounds.

 

Actually, I believe the B/R wire would have less than 2 volts while the car is idling.This wire is an output wire. You need to check the CAS ohms reading at the ECU to see if the ECU is receiving the signal or not for if it doesn't then the coils and injectors "cannot fire." If you disconnect the largest ECU plug and ohm out pin 1N and pin 1P then it should read from 110 to 210 ohms and the same goes for pins 1T and 1Q. So w/the meter set to ohms one meter terminal goes to pin 1N and the other meter terminal to pin 1P and no key necessary.

EDIT: It would be easier to disconnect the plug to the CAS and take a reading from the CAS pigtail harness. Ohm out the Green and the Blue wires and then the Red and the White wire. If you get a good reading there then proceed to the ECU.

 

Did a little research to figure out how to 'ohm out' a wire and then did what you suggested.
Found that the green wire was fully severed and the blue wire was partially severed. Soldered a repair and now I have 0 to 5v when turning the CAS by hand.

Thanks.