favorite brake bleeding method
#1
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favorite brake bleeding method
i just swapped out my small brakes for big ones and i was wondering what you guys's favorite bleeding method is, such as how to use the 2 rear bleeder screws, or to press the pedal all the way to the floor or not, etc...... basically which yields the best results
#2
Speed Bleeders!
They work wonders.
Other than that, if you are using the normal bleeders, only send the brake pedal through its normal range of motion (ie don't mash it all the way to the floor). Start with the passenger rear, then drivers rear, passenger front, driver front (going from furthest from the master to closest). The rest is just basic technique which can be found in your haynes manual or multiple places online.
They work wonders.
Other than that, if you are using the normal bleeders, only send the brake pedal through its normal range of motion (ie don't mash it all the way to the floor). Start with the passenger rear, then drivers rear, passenger front, driver front (going from furthest from the master to closest). The rest is just basic technique which can be found in your haynes manual or multiple places online.
#3
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Thread Starter
i heard to press it all the way to the floor, and hold it there, open the valve, then close it before the fluid stops coming out? and also to put some oil around the threads of the bleeder screw so air cant get in? any idea on that?
#4
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Screw that method, that's the old redneck method. There are 2 better, quicker alternatives, as well as teh aforementioned speed bleeders. These are the end-all of brake maintenance, but since theyre not readily available on a saturday afternoon, we'll explore the 2 quick, cheap and effective ways.
1) they sell a bleeding kit at autozone etc which is basically the same thing Im going to outline below. It costs like 5 or 10 bucks
2) you can do it yourself with 2 bottles of brake fluid and about 2 feet of standard (5/32") vacuum hose. Keep one bottle at the reservior and keep it full, and keep the other at the caliper you're bleeding. Dip the vacuum hose all the way into the bottle at the caliper, put your 8mm closed wrench on the bleeder valve, then firmly press the vacuum hose over the end of fhe bleeder. Now go be sure the res. is full, pump the pedal 10 or so times, close the valve, and remove the vac. hose from the bleeder. Be sure not to remove the hose before you close the valve. Repeat in order as described above, and you should only have to do this one time. BTW< for brakes, it helps to have the car running, so the power assist will help you move more volume of fluid.
THe theory behind this is that by attatching the hose to te bottle, when you pump, excess fluid (and air) get expelled, and when you release the pedal it will suck back in (if anything) fluid only. I can bleed a whole car's brakes in 15 minutes, and this includes wheel removal/installation.
1) they sell a bleeding kit at autozone etc which is basically the same thing Im going to outline below. It costs like 5 or 10 bucks
2) you can do it yourself with 2 bottles of brake fluid and about 2 feet of standard (5/32") vacuum hose. Keep one bottle at the reservior and keep it full, and keep the other at the caliper you're bleeding. Dip the vacuum hose all the way into the bottle at the caliper, put your 8mm closed wrench on the bleeder valve, then firmly press the vacuum hose over the end of fhe bleeder. Now go be sure the res. is full, pump the pedal 10 or so times, close the valve, and remove the vac. hose from the bleeder. Be sure not to remove the hose before you close the valve. Repeat in order as described above, and you should only have to do this one time. BTW< for brakes, it helps to have the car running, so the power assist will help you move more volume of fluid.
THe theory behind this is that by attatching the hose to te bottle, when you pump, excess fluid (and air) get expelled, and when you release the pedal it will suck back in (if anything) fluid only. I can bleed a whole car's brakes in 15 minutes, and this includes wheel removal/installation.
#6
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Nope, it'll work regardless if it's above or below, as long as it's submerged in brake fluid, that way air escapes from the hose and bubbles up to the surface, and then it sucks in fluid, as hypntyz7 said.
#7
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
the resevoir has to be above the caliper for this method to work right?
I think regardless of theory, it really doesnt matter because at no time *while you're bleeding* should any caliper be *above or level* with the MC...lol
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#9
Originally posted by banzaitoyota
I can buy speedbleeders at autozone now. I also made a pressure bleeder for 25.00
I can buy speedbleeders at autozone now. I also made a pressure bleeder for 25.00
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Here is a link
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
#13
I wish I was driving!
Originally posted by banzaitoyota
I can buy speedbleeders at autozone now. I also made a pressure bleeder for 25.00. with the pressure bleeder and speedbleeders brake bleeding is a breeze
I can buy speedbleeders at autozone now. I also made a pressure bleeder for 25.00. with the pressure bleeder and speedbleeders brake bleeding is a breeze
Pressure bledding makes a difference of night and day in pedal feel.
I also used this with speed bleeders, but just couldn't get the pedal feel I wanted without pressure bleeding.
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I believe Scathcart is referring to using a regulated source of air from his shop compressor. That is the beauty of the Pressure bleeder: You do not have to have access to an Air Compressor
#16
Is that possible to do correctly without the pressure regulator? I mean, I guess I could get one, but seems like extra money and work for a minimal advantage. How much PSI can those plant sprayers put out anyway?
#17
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well, PSI, depends on the area it has to cover, so prolly 20 psi inside that container, maybe a bit more, dont worry, its not like a turbo, dont try hooking it up to your engine
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