Factory Mazda filter
04-21-03, 12:20 PM
#1
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Factory Mazda filter
Over the past year or so i have been useing the Factory Mazda oil filter when i do my oil changes.
From what i've heard it's one of the best. I mean hell. it goes cost around 6$
Is this a false statement? Is it really a good filter or am i just waisting my money when i could be buying something like a K&N Oil Filter or even a purolator filter.
Thanks for the help.
From what i've heard it's one of the best. I mean hell. it goes cost around 6$
Is this a false statement? Is it really a good filter or am i just waisting my money when i could be buying something like a K&N Oil Filter or even a purolator filter.
Thanks for the help.
04-21-03, 12:36 PM
#2
Everything from the dealer is overpriced, so just because it costs $6, doesn't mean it's the best.
That said, I'm sure the OEM filter is great, but I use Purolator Pure One filters. I think I usually pay around $5 or so. I've seen Mobil One filters that are huge, but cost $9!
That said, I'm sure the OEM filter is great, but I use Purolator Pure One filters. I think I usually pay around $5 or so. I've seen Mobil One filters that are huge, but cost $9!
04-21-03, 12:40 PM
#3
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Benifits from running a 'HUGE' oil filter.
Jerry i noticed your from Tampa. Let's get a club down here! Are you familiar with Mazsport or Maztec?
Maztec is in Tampa. Mazsport in in Largo. Both Jeff and scott are good guys man.
Jerry i noticed your from Tampa. Let's get a club down here! Are you familiar with Mazsport or Maztec?
Maztec is in Tampa. Mazsport in in Largo. Both Jeff and scott are good guys man.
04-21-03, 12:59 PM
#4
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There is a club :
Mazda Rotary Car Club of Florida www.mrccfl.com
Meet every second Saturday at BJ's Tavern on the causeway.
Club was the original RX7 club of Florida since like mid 90's I think.
Mazda Rotary Car Club of Florida www.mrccfl.com
Meet every second Saturday at BJ's Tavern on the causeway.
Club was the original RX7 club of Florida since like mid 90's I think.
04-21-03, 03:07 PM
#5
Yeah, check out my sig! 
Very familiar with Maztech. Jeff did my rebuild some 60k miles ago. I always stop by every now and then to say hi and chat. Bought a used throttle sensor from him a couple weeks ago. Few know that Jeff is actually a member of MRCCFL, and advertises in the newsletter.
By the fact that I'm on the wrong side of the Bay, I'm not too familiar with Mazsport. I have met Scott once, he came to our monthly meet in February.
As far as the original topic goes - bigger filter should mean more filter material, therefore better filtering.The main thing I look for in an oil filter is an anti-drainback valve and what appears to be good construction. There's a couple of links floating around that compare different oil filters. It's a great read. I'm on a different computer than I normally use, so all my bookmarks aren't with me. When I get my home network back up, I'll dig it up for you (if you don't find it before then or someone doesn't give you the link).
Very familiar with Maztech. Jeff did my rebuild some 60k miles ago. I always stop by every now and then to say hi and chat. Bought a used throttle sensor from him a couple weeks ago. Few know that Jeff is actually a member of MRCCFL, and advertises in the newsletter.
By the fact that I'm on the wrong side of the Bay, I'm not too familiar with Mazsport. I have met Scott once, he came to our monthly meet in February.
As far as the original topic goes - bigger filter should mean more filter material, therefore better filtering.The main thing I look for in an oil filter is an anti-drainback valve and what appears to be good construction. There's a couple of links floating around that compare different oil filters. It's a great read. I'm on a different computer than I normally use, so all my bookmarks aren't with me. When I get my home network back up, I'll dig it up for you (if you don't find it before then or someone doesn't give you the link).
04-21-03, 03:23 PM
#6
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
here is the Mazda Miata filter report, since the Miata uses the exact same filter and has simular engine performance requirements, it can very closely be used to compare:
http://www.teammiata.com/libs/oil-filters.htm
Intresting that they say:
But I am sure you can read that yourself...
and the Scuddy report:
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
So by comparing the two reports, and using info from both, you can see the only real choice is the OEM mazda filter, followed by the Mobil1.
http://www.teammiata.com/libs/oil-filters.htm
Intresting that they say:
In the group, the Mazda filer was the smallest - so we figured that is would have the least amount of surface filtering area. Boy were we wrong.
The Mazda filer had almost three times the amount of filtering area as compared to the biggest filter - the FRAM.
The Mazda filter had about twice as much as the Purolator and the AC Delco.
At the time the Mazda and the FRAM were the only two to have check valves (none of the others available now - including the Fram - have check valves of any sort).
The Mazda filer had almost three times the amount of filtering area as compared to the biggest filter - the FRAM.
The Mazda filter had about twice as much as the Purolator and the AC Delco.
At the time the Mazda and the FRAM were the only two to have check valves (none of the others available now - including the Fram - have check valves of any sort).
and the Scuddy report:
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
So by comparing the two reports, and using info from both, you can see the only real choice is the OEM mazda filter, followed by the Mobil1.
04-21-03, 04:18 PM
#7
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I use only purolator pure one filters after reading that oil filter study over a year ago. The mobil1 is good also but i cant find that around here, and i think id actually prefer the pure one over it.
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04-21-03, 05:27 PM
#10
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by spunks
Whatever happened to fram filters!I've never had any problems with them.
Whatever happened to fram filters!I've never had any problems with them.
04-21-03, 05:36 PM
#11
Information Regurgitator
I've been using Wix filters for awhile now.I used to use the Purolator Pure One until I read about the possible flow issues.I've had a Mobil 1 a couple times and it is my favorite but most of the time the price keeps me from using it.I can't comment on the stock Mazda filter because I've never had one(no Mazda dealer in my area).
04-21-03, 05:44 PM
#12
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i'm using the Motorcraft filter right now, it is a lot wider than the oem filter.
speaking of oem filters, have anyone tried to use a mazda V6 filter? it's the same price as the 4 cyl/rotary filter, and it's about 1 inch taller in height!
oh, and it fits and works perfectly fine on my Protege!
speaking of oem filters, have anyone tried to use a mazda V6 filter? it's the same price as the 4 cyl/rotary filter, and it's about 1 inch taller in height!
oh, and it fits and works perfectly fine on my Protege!
04-21-03, 06:58 PM
#14
I use the K&N filter in mine and haven't had any probs with it. I've noticed that the oil seems to stay a little cleaner (that is doesn't go black quite as quickly) than fram or mighty. I've never used mazda's filter so I can't say if its any better.
04-21-03, 10:00 PM
#17
Opinions are like........
In any oil filter review, I haven't seen anyone do any actual filter media testing, pressure loss testing, or engine wear/oil condition testing.
No one has proven that any filters' construction is inadequate or better/worse than any other filter.
Filter surface area is one of many variables. More isn't necessarily a good thing. Filter media type is also important.
Also, some of the expensive filters are overly restrictive. So, I would stay away from them. Oil pressure is important too!
A larger filter usually holds more oil. More oil capacity is always a good thing. A huge filter(in the same brand) usually has more filtering area. More filtering area, spread out, is a good thing.
You are better off practicing more frequent change intervals.
No one has proven that any filters' construction is inadequate or better/worse than any other filter.
Filter surface area is one of many variables. More isn't necessarily a good thing. Filter media type is also important.
Also, some of the expensive filters are overly restrictive. So, I would stay away from them. Oil pressure is important too!
A larger filter usually holds more oil. More oil capacity is always a good thing. A huge filter(in the same brand) usually has more filtering area. More filtering area, spread out, is a good thing.
You are better off practicing more frequent change intervals.
04-21-03, 11:07 PM
#18
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In the automotive program here at college, the teachers are totally against Fram filters.
One of the teachers keeps an old Fram filter they pulled off a car that came in for service. All the paper guts were missing! Fram uses glue to hold the filter element together, most competitive brands sew them together. The glue gets hot and lets loose.
The teacher shows the students that filter every semester to make sure to show them why you should never use a Fram filter. It made me a believer. They may be ok for front-wheel drive non-performance oriented cars, but our hot machines will destroy those filters.
One of the teachers keeps an old Fram filter they pulled off a car that came in for service. All the paper guts were missing! Fram uses glue to hold the filter element together, most competitive brands sew them together. The glue gets hot and lets loose.
The teacher shows the students that filter every semester to make sure to show them why you should never use a Fram filter. It made me a believer. They may be ok for front-wheel drive non-performance oriented cars, but our hot machines will destroy those filters.
04-22-03, 04:44 PM
#19
Opinions are like........
I have seen damaged filters from every major brand.
Overuse and overheat were the biggest issues. Coolant and gas saturated oil seems to be the other issue.
Don't you think that one of the biggest filter companies in the world would be sued if their filters sucked as bad as everyone thinks? This is a class action society just looking for an excuse for any free money.
Any instructor that has one sample used to make a judgement call on all products from a company is an ignorant fool. Believing him is worse. That is one problem with teachers--they are supposed to be unbiased or at least give all the facts.
What were the details to the filter destruction? 20k mile change interval? 350 degree oil? Sludged engine? 5 minute flushes run for 30 minutes? Oversized oil pump or pressure regulator without adjusting filter capacity? poorly rebuilt engine?
They never tell, do they? Died in normal use BS!
What I just mentioned can destroy any filter.
Most media has some cellulose fiber in it. Having a glued on end cap is no big deal and is also used by other filter manufacturers Don't be surprised that the filter you are using is glued(not welded) together at the threaded end or case to endcaps.
Some of the best filters in to the world are bypass filters that use paper towel or toilet rolls as the media. Its pretty funny seeing the look on someones face when installing a scotts tissue roll. I am cornholio, I need TP for my oil system.
One funny thing that I laughed at is when I saw a wixfilters sponsored race car with a Fram HP1 filtering the oil. I like and use wix filters and their clones.
I've put over a million miles on Fram filters with absolutely no engine failures ever. I don't use them now because they downsized their US plants(one that I worked in), and the imported filters from 3rd world countries, IMO, suck.
Some excellent filters are the supertech(wallyworld champlabs), proline(no name purolator clone), basic mobil(not M1), purolator(cheapo not pureone), napa(wix clone), STP, Penske/Castrol(wix clone at banKruptmart)...Most of these filters can be bought for $2-$3.
High end filters tend to be excessively over restrictive. This reduces engine oil pressure and kicks the pressure regulator in too early. Don't waste money on higher end filters sold next to same brand cheapos.
Overuse and overheat were the biggest issues. Coolant and gas saturated oil seems to be the other issue.
Don't you think that one of the biggest filter companies in the world would be sued if their filters sucked as bad as everyone thinks? This is a class action society just looking for an excuse for any free money.
Any instructor that has one sample used to make a judgement call on all products from a company is an ignorant fool. Believing him is worse. That is one problem with teachers--they are supposed to be unbiased or at least give all the facts.
What were the details to the filter destruction? 20k mile change interval? 350 degree oil? Sludged engine? 5 minute flushes run for 30 minutes? Oversized oil pump or pressure regulator without adjusting filter capacity? poorly rebuilt engine?
They never tell, do they? Died in normal use BS!
What I just mentioned can destroy any filter.
Most media has some cellulose fiber in it. Having a glued on end cap is no big deal and is also used by other filter manufacturers Don't be surprised that the filter you are using is glued(not welded) together at the threaded end or case to endcaps.
Some of the best filters in to the world are bypass filters that use paper towel or toilet rolls as the media. Its pretty funny seeing the look on someones face when installing a scotts tissue roll. I am cornholio, I need TP for my oil system.
One funny thing that I laughed at is when I saw a wixfilters sponsored race car with a Fram HP1 filtering the oil. I like and use wix filters and their clones.
I've put over a million miles on Fram filters with absolutely no engine failures ever. I don't use them now because they downsized their US plants(one that I worked in), and the imported filters from 3rd world countries, IMO, suck.
Some excellent filters are the supertech(wallyworld champlabs), proline(no name purolator clone), basic mobil(not M1), purolator(cheapo not pureone), napa(wix clone), STP, Penske/Castrol(wix clone at banKruptmart)...Most of these filters can be bought for $2-$3.
High end filters tend to be excessively over restrictive. This reduces engine oil pressure and kicks the pressure regulator in too early. Don't waste money on higher end filters sold next to same brand cheapos.
04-22-03, 06:51 PM
#21
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The Fram filter the instructor had wasn't the only one he had come across
He used to work in a shop down south, constantly hot weather. He said Fram isn't the only company to have this problem. Without sewing the fliter element together, the hot weather would cause the oil to stay hot too long and break down the glue that Fram and some other companies use.
The glue lets loose and then the filter element tears apart into pieces. I have used Napa filters, Purolator, Valvoline, Quaker State, etc.
Never had any problem with any of them. Never knew anyone that had a problem with them. I have seen Fram filters go to ****, teacher being a prime example. Why take the risk?
Oh, and the car was in average condition with a couple thousand miles between oil changes. They had used Fram filters before and never any problem. Why would the filter just let loose this time? Shotty craftsmanship is my only thought. Anyways, that is all it takes for me to avoid a product.
He used to work in a shop down south, constantly hot weather. He said Fram isn't the only company to have this problem. Without sewing the fliter element together, the hot weather would cause the oil to stay hot too long and break down the glue that Fram and some other companies use.
The glue lets loose and then the filter element tears apart into pieces. I have used Napa filters, Purolator, Valvoline, Quaker State, etc.
Never had any problem with any of them. Never knew anyone that had a problem with them. I have seen Fram filters go to ****, teacher being a prime example. Why take the risk?
Oh, and the car was in average condition with a couple thousand miles between oil changes. They had used Fram filters before and never any problem. Why would the filter just let loose this time? Shotty craftsmanship is my only thought. Anyways, that is all it takes for me to avoid a product.
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