Engine Re-Build Questions
#1
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Engine Re-Build Questions
I am getting ready to re-build my first two engines and I need some info.
1. Is there a "best" engine/parts cleaner solvent and, if so, what do you think it is?
2. The best price I have been able to find on a torque wrench with a capacity of 360 ft-lbs is almost $600. Does anyone know of a better deal?
3. Can the rotor housings and end plates be "baked" in order to clean them as is standard practice with cast iron engine blocks and heads?
Thanks
1. Is there a "best" engine/parts cleaner solvent and, if so, what do you think it is?
2. The best price I have been able to find on a torque wrench with a capacity of 360 ft-lbs is almost $600. Does anyone know of a better deal?
3. Can the rotor housings and end plates be "baked" in order to clean them as is standard practice with cast iron engine blocks and heads?
Thanks
#2
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Originally Posted by walterwible
1. Is there a "best" engine/parts cleaner solvent and, if so, what do you think it is?
They are all very caustic, so keep away from your skin!
2. The best price I have been able to find on a torque wrench with a capacity of 360 ft-lbs is almost $600. Does anyone know of a better deal?
Use thread locker on the threads.
Use some sealant on the nut facing the flywheel / counterweight - this is detailed in the Mazda FSM.
3. Can the rotor housings and end plates be "baked" in order to clean them as is standard practice with cast iron engine blocks and heads?
I think it does more harm than good.
Check the recent Simple Green-soaking-overnight thread...
-Ted
#3
Nurse I need 1300cc's NOW
Originally Posted by RETed
I use Chem-Dip by Berrymans or any of the "carb cleaner in a can" (not spray stuff).
They are all very caustic, so keep away from your skin!
Not necessary...impact gun the bitch with at least a 250 lb-ft rated unit.
Use thread locker on the threads.
Use some sealant on the nut facing the flywheel / counterweight - this is detailed in the Mazda FSM.
Not really necessary...
I think it does more harm than good.
Check the recent Simple Green-soaking-overnight thread...
-Ted
They are all very caustic, so keep away from your skin!
Not necessary...impact gun the bitch with at least a 250 lb-ft rated unit.
Use thread locker on the threads.
Use some sealant on the nut facing the flywheel / counterweight - this is detailed in the Mazda FSM.
Not really necessary...
I think it does more harm than good.
Check the recent Simple Green-soaking-overnight thread...
-Ted
#4
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some answers
Use brakecleaner..
I would check ebay for a torque wrench there are usually good deals there.. you could also borrow one because you will not be using it that often.
i have never heard of baking a block.. I have heard of sand blasting etc.. never baking though.. I would assume that this might warp engine parts.. i could be wrong though..
I would check ebay for a torque wrench there are usually good deals there.. you could also borrow one because you will not be using it that often.
i have never heard of baking a block.. I have heard of sand blasting etc.. never baking though.. I would assume that this might warp engine parts.. i could be wrong though..
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Originally Posted by walterwible
1. Is there a "best" engine/parts cleaner solvent and, if so, what do you think it is?
2. The best price I have been able to find on a torque wrench with a capacity of 360 ft-lbs is almost $600. Does anyone know of a better deal?
3. Can the rotor housings and end plates be "baked" in order to clean them as is standard practice with cast iron engine blocks and heads?
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