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Engine Re-Build Questions

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Old 10-03-05, 09:11 AM
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Question Engine Re-Build Questions

I am getting ready to re-build my first two engines and I need some info.

1. Is there a "best" engine/parts cleaner solvent and, if so, what do you think it is?

2. The best price I have been able to find on a torque wrench with a capacity of 360 ft-lbs is almost $600. Does anyone know of a better deal?

3. Can the rotor housings and end plates be "baked" in order to clean them as is standard practice with cast iron engine blocks and heads?


Thanks
Old 10-03-05, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by walterwible
1. Is there a "best" engine/parts cleaner solvent and, if so, what do you think it is?
I use Chem-Dip by Berrymans or any of the "carb cleaner in a can" (not spray stuff).
They are all very caustic, so keep away from your skin!


2. The best price I have been able to find on a torque wrench with a capacity of 360 ft-lbs is almost $600. Does anyone know of a better deal?
Not necessary...impact gun the bitch with at least a 250 lb-ft rated unit.
Use thread locker on the threads.
Use some sealant on the nut facing the flywheel / counterweight - this is detailed in the Mazda FSM.


3. Can the rotor housings and end plates be "baked" in order to clean them as is standard practice with cast iron engine blocks and heads?
Not really necessary...
I think it does more harm than good.
Check the recent Simple Green-soaking-overnight thread...


-Ted
Old 10-03-05, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by RETed
I use Chem-Dip by Berrymans or any of the "carb cleaner in a can" (not spray stuff).
They are all very caustic, so keep away from your skin!



Not necessary...impact gun the bitch with at least a 250 lb-ft rated unit.
Use thread locker on the threads.
Use some sealant on the nut facing the flywheel / counterweight - this is detailed in the Mazda FSM.



Not really necessary...
I think it does more harm than good.
Check the recent Simple Green-soaking-overnight thread...


-Ted
all good peices of advice
Old 10-03-05, 10:45 AM
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some answers

Use brakecleaner..
I would check ebay for a torque wrench there are usually good deals there.. you could also borrow one because you will not be using it that often.
i have never heard of baking a block.. I have heard of sand blasting etc.. never baking though.. I would assume that this might warp engine parts.. i could be wrong though..
Old 10-03-05, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by walterwible
1. Is there a "best" engine/parts cleaner solvent and, if so, what do you think it is?
I usually soak everything in Gunk degreaser for about a day, then use carb cleaner and a stiff brush on the rotor faces. Stubborn carbon comes off with a razor blade. Whatever you use, make sure it is "babbit safe" or it will eat the bearings.

2. The best price I have been able to find on a torque wrench with a capacity of 360 ft-lbs is almost $600. Does anyone know of a better deal?
Don't bother. Get a 150 Ft-LB wrench and tighten the nut to 150 pounds. Then use an impact gun to move it another 60 degrees (the distance between two points on the nut). Use red Loctite on the e-shaft threads.

3. Can the rotor housings and end plates be "baked" in order to clean them as is standard practice with cast iron engine blocks and heads?
No harm in baking them, but degreaser usually works fine.
Old 10-03-05, 01:13 PM
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yeah i 13b injection motor without compressure what should i do to make it have presure
Old 10-03-05, 01:36 PM
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I have taken my bare block to a rental yard, and they used a tow behind compressor there. $10.00. Or, buy the Mazdatrix breaker bars, that is what I have now.
Old 10-03-05, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rocky_turbo2
yeah i 13b injection motor without compressure what should i do to make it have presure

blow in it.
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