TonyTurboII

Can it be done? This little hose that goes from the rear housing the upper intake? I cringe every time I think of that damn thing. And it makes me not even want to take the upper intake off when I have to get in there. I would have no problem removing it if I didnt have to take off that ******* hose.

Dyre

Remove the thermo wax system...


Thats the biggest reason i did the throttle body mod-

TonyTurboII

Whats the negative effect if I do? I thought the throttle body thing was a N/A mod. Can I just cap off this line at the block?

Six Rotors

iTrader: (17)

Not really,you need hot water for the BAC.So what you do is connect a hose from the outlet of the BAC to the fitting on the block and route it around so it does not interfere with the upper manifold removal etc.If you take your BAC off of course you don't need it.

affinitee

If you remove the BAC, you can run a hose from rear housing to the water pump housing....

86Rx7GXL

why does the BAC need hot water?

HAILERS

See this http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html it explains how the bac works at 125hz. It does not just open a little bit and let air in. It constantly vibrates when at work. Needs to stay cool. Might think about the removal of the thermowax. During the winter if you do not have it, it could be a discomfort having to keep your foot on the pedal to warm the car up. On the other hand maybe its not that big a deal. I agree with the complaint about that hose. I've just gotta make some different routing so I can hold the body up and have enough room to connect the end of the hose. It discourages maintanence. But you know that.

TonyTurboII

Ok, so if I need to run the hose from the rear housing to the backside of the BAC? The the one under the manifold, and corresponding one above it can be capped off? WOuld this eliminate any thermowax/idle cam screwing with my idle? Could the thermowax/idle cam cause a bouncy idle? Also, whats the best way to check for a vaccum leak?

PS I dont think ill have the money to liscense/INSURE the car until the spring. I got a couple big bills hanging on me.

Mykl

If you're having a problem with your thermovalve and you don't wan't to do the throttle body mod just do what I did, disable it.

All you have to do is disconnect the spring on the throttle body that puts tension on the fast idle cam, wire that bitch back, and the thermovalve will no longer affect your idle because the fast idle cam roller is no longer touching the cam.

HAILERS

Tony TurboII....did I hear how to check for a vac leak? Do a visual of all the vac lines plus checking to see if they fit tight on the nipples. Next, I(proceed at your own risk) get a can or two of starter fluid, and with the engine running, shoot at the vac line connections, the turbo inlet duct connections, around the bac valve and its air hoses, the edges of the bac, around the edges of the intake manifold, the intercooler, the three or four vac lines on the front and rear of the throttle body etc. If a turbo, take the intercooler off and in its place get some pvc from Home Depot (straight pipe and two 90 degree elbows) and run the pvc from the entrance hose to the exit hose where the intercooler was. That way the intercooler is out of your way and you can idle the car with a good look at the throttle body. PVC stuff maybe three bucks. Other folk use WD40. Keep the starter fluid away from the altenator while idling. I found my turbo inlet crack by spraying from the bottom of the engine toward the connection at the turbo. while idling. Also while idling pull the vac hose off the egr and plug the hose with your finger. If the idle changes, check to see if the diaphram in the egr is cracked. On the acv pull the one vac hose off that points straight up while idling and plug the hose with your finger. If the idle changes check that the diaphram in the acv is holding a vac or not. I had this prob at the acv and the cracked diaphram caused a slightly rough idle. Was sucking air. Should'nt have been. When using starter fluid make sure it does not go KABLOOIE, KAPOW. Have fun. Oh yes, the double throttle diaphram could be leaking internaly. I'm suggesting that not only can a vac leak be external but a component itself could be leaking internaly. Yeah. Have fun anyway.

TonyTurboII

How do I make sure it doesent go "KABLOOIE, KAPLOW"? And where in the hell is the the EGR? I just made a TID, some im pretty sure its ok. Ill spray it though. I got carb cleaner, isnt that the same thing? I wonder if there is a ACV on my spare J-spec intake......

HAILERS

Yeah, use the carb cleaner. I use starter fluid. When you hit a open vac line or leaking area at idle, the rpm will usually smooth out or pick up a lilttle. Enough for you to notice with the ear. The EGR is located at the right rear of the engine, on the back side. Has one vac line going to it. Here's the deal on the acv. The acv itself cannot affect the idle. It does not feed air to the intake at all. What the deal is, is that there is a vaccum line going to it whose purpose is to suck on a diaphram. If the diaphram is cracked, then the vac line is now just an air leak to the intake. But you knew that. There is on the turbo only one vac line to the acv. Its the one on top of the acv that points straight up. Take the vac line off and put your finger over the hose. If nothing changes, then the acv diaphram is probably ok. Put the hose back on. The other hose on the acv, if you ignore the one that goes to the boost sensor, are actually under pressure, not vac. The idea of doing this procedure with the acv and egr was to determine if they were causing the air leak due to the internal diaphram leaking. No need to swap acv's. I have no problem with the starter fluid. With the remaining two fingers on my hand I can still press the button if my remaining eye will just focus. I just keep from spraying sparking devices....altenator.

HAILERS

That double throttle diaphram that I thought you might see if its got a bad diaphram, is located on the throttle body. Looking right at the throttle body intake, its on the left, bottom. Should have a single vac line going from it to the other side of the throttle body. Line could be off. Diaphram could be bad etc. Could be 100percent ok. Lotta places to look for leaks.

Six Rotors

iTrader: (17)

Actually there is a passage between the ACV and the intake manifold,it is normally closed by the the anti-afterburn valve.These valves have been known to leak and cause a lumpy idle.You can check if you have this problem-see FSM,4B-49.

TonyTurboII

Mispost.

TonyTurboII

Heres the deal. Checked the ACV, there was vacuum on the hose side. Checked the EGR, no vacuum on either side. I took the hose off the ACV, and sprayed some carb clearer in the general area. It didnt even effect the idle. Can someone pull this needle out of my side?

HAILERS

On the ACV you had a vac on the hose. Thats good. But did you put a piece of hose on the nipple on the ACV and put some suction on it? If it holds a vac with suction its ok. If you put suction on it and it will not hold a vac then its the same thing as a air leak. Now for the humble apology. Just forget about the EGR valve and what I said about it. I don't think it gets a vac at idle on second thought. Sorry. Might try what Six Rotors suggests with the pages he mentioned. If memory serves you've tried most of the usual places where a air leak is so I am just trying for the not so obvious ones. We'll come up with something yet. Anyway you know where the EGR is now. The book says that if, at idle, you pull the vac line off it, and put a vacuum on the egr valve itself at idle, the engine speed should run rough or stall. Try that. See if its diaphram will hold a vac, and if it does hold a vac , see if the idle gets rough and lower. Its in the fsm section 4B under EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION(EGR) CONTROL SYSTEM. If its diaphram does not hold a vac, either get a new one or block it off with a homemade blockoff plate.

TonyTurboII

The idle isnt lumpy like rough. Its bouncy from 15-1700. I dont know if were talking about the same thing, but ill give this a try.

Six Rotors

iTrader: (17)

We may be talking about different things.If your motor is idling between 1500rpm and 1700rpm in a sinusoidal fashion but is running smoothly,ie no stumbling and rocking physically,then for sure you do not have a vacuum leak--all the air going to the motor is being monitored by the AFM and the correct(roughly)amount of fuel being delivered.The up and down rpm movement is caused by the BAC doing its thing.Further more the maximum rpm achievable with the BAC and a wide open adjustment on the airbleed screw is about 1300rpm.Therefore the only way you can get such a high idle speed is if the throttle valve(s)is partially open,the BAC valve is partially open but otherwise normal,the air supply valve is partially open or the air by pass valve is partially open.Any other air path by passes the AFM and is unmonitored and your motor is short of fuel and runs rough.
If you are absolutely sure that the throttle valves are closed,then your problem must be in the valves mentioned above.