LowFreq

I'm putting the finishing touches on my DIY Water Injection kit and I've got an electrical question.
I bought one of those little mini warning buzzers and I'd like it to go off if the Water Injection does not come on. now, it's a fairly simple thing to make it buzz if the water injection comes on--just wire it up like an led and when the boost sensor hits the appropriate amount of boost it sends power to the WI system and that would power the buzzer.
What I want to do is the opposite. If the car gets the appropriate amount of boost and no power goes thru the WI system, then I want the buzzer to go off.

Anyone know of a way to wire that?

LowFreq

bump

Icemark

pretty easy to do with transistors... what is your electrical experence level?

ZeroBanger

To be frank, I think you are wiring your system wrong. Or atleast I would do it different. I can give you suggestions. the switch I sold you has both NC and NO contacts. Thats means you can turn ON a device or turn OFF a device when you hit the right boost level. If you want to do both at the same time, you need a 2nd switch.

The other thing you can do, the switch not only works on air , but works with water pressure also. Assuming you set your system up like mine with solenoids, you can use a switch to check the water pressure. when the pressure is 0, it can turn the buzzer on for you. This is the next edition to my water injection kit, but I have not done the R & D to offer it yet.

Remember...if you get the appropriate boost power should ALWAYS be going to the system. Its the water you should be worried about.

Hope that helps a little bit.

LowFreq

The above does help. This is how I've got it wired right now ... I've set up the system as per the turbomirage instructions. I've setup your boost switch as per your instructions and everything works perfectly. Today I'll be adding 2 led's -- 1 solid that'll light when the system is armed and a flasher that'll flash when the boost switch turns the system on. I don't want to do both at the same time because if the 1 switch fails and doesn't start the WI system at 10 lbs of boost, how's it gonna tell me it failed if I'm using that same switch for a 'warning of failure switch(for lack of a better term)', right? So I was actually thinking that the best way to do that would be, not to monitor current going thru the system, but to monitor water flow just before the nozzle--this way outside of the nozzle clogging up, I'll now definitively that it's working.
If your switch can monitor water flow, that would work great-. My system is setup with a solenoid. How would I 'plumb in' another one of your switches, and wire it to send a signal if 1. the system is armed, 2. boost is above 10 lbs and 3. no water flow.

ZeroBanger

water flow is the way to go. You can have all the current you want going through the lines, but that will not tell you if your out of water.

You could use another boost switch for water pressure. Your water pressure should NEVER be zero. As long as pressure is kept in the lines (cause you have a solenoid).

all you need to do is T another one of these switches into your water line. Instead of having a LED that lights up when the pressure is zero, it would be easier to have a Green led that lights up telling you everyting is ok. When the pressure drops, the green light turns off. The way the switches are setup is to turn ON a device at a certain PSI or turn OFF a device at a certain psi (air or water). So the way to do this is have a GREEN Light that turns off.

Do the following tests. 1st get yourself a cheap water pressure gauge and tee it in the water line at the exact spot you will eventually Tee the water pressure switch.

turn your system on to test it when its spraying and see what PSI the guage reads. Then turn the system off and see what pressure the gauge reads. then take the water hose out of the tank and do it again. when the water hose is out of the tank it should drop to zero.

Lets pretend that for the first test the psi is 60, the 2nd test is 45 and the last test is 0. You can then hook a switch up, set it to any psi (10 or 14 for example). Hook a LED up to that on the normall open circuit. The green LED will always be lit. When the PSI drops below 14 the LED will go out.

its MUCH safer to do it that way. When its Green you know its good. For example, what happens if you hook the system up to do it the otherway where the LED turns on when there is a problem...and the LED is burned out? SEE...your system could be bad and you will not know. Have the Green LED always lit when the system is functioning properly and if its out you know the bulb is bad or the water pressure has dropped.

Lastly, you can use the ignition source to the switch so the green light only stays on when the car is running.

LowFreq

Great suggestions. How about this ...
I've got a dual stage boost controller that switches between high and low boost(maybe 8 or 9 lbs) via a solenoid. Shouldn't it be possible to, in addition to the led going out when there's a problem, kicking in the low boost setting? This way it would be near impossible to overboost without the protection of the WI. What do you think?

ZeroBanger

I never tried your suggestion so I cant say, but I can say for fact that the switch is designed to shut off or start any device when the necessary boost is reached. If there is a device that you can shut off or turn on that would cause your turbos to stop boosting, then yes that would work.

If you need another switch let me know. They are not on sale anymore, but i'll still give you the same price I gave you before. I have them instock, so I can get them out next day for you. Of my 25 batch that I just received early last week, I have 12 left.

let me know if you need anything else.

LowFreq

Sounds good. PM me your paypal addr again with the price including shipping and I'll send you some cash.

ZeroBanger

Did you receive your switch? Did you get it working?

I got my system to show water pressure to prove water is injecting in the line. You can check out the video's here.

www.coolingmist.com/upgrades.html.

note that in the test setup I was using I did not have solenoids so the light only turned on when the water was injecting. In a real situation the green light will be on unless 1 of two things:

1) run out of water
2) hose pops off.

I'm very happy with it. If you need any help configuring it, send me an email or PM.

thanks again!

David

LowFreq

Yes, I got the switch-thanks.
I haven't installed it yet--I got the idea that if I could figure out a way to monitor the intake temps and then send a signal to kick me to low boost if the temps get to hot, that would cover all bases. --but I haven't totally decided to go that route yet.
If I need some help plumbing that second switch into the system to monitor the water pressure, I'll let you know.