2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

electrical issues...

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Old Feb 11, 2010 | 12:54 AM
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FL electrical issues...

I have a 1988 RX7 convertable. I have checked all the fuses and they are fine. Everything is connected correctly. nothing seems corroded or damaged. With that being said, my clock and dummy lights only work sometimes, my AC works only if i push on the control panel really hard then it clicks on, working sometimes for hours, or minutes, no consistency. also sometimes my AC will come on witht he key turned forward, but when i start the car it no longer works. Neither power widnows will go down, what are the chances of 2 bad switches (driver and passenger? the control panel for the surround sound in the car between the center console and the shifter doesnt work either, yet the power mirrors located near that paenl does. I just dont get it, some things work that are apart of things that do not. It is driving me nuts, and not haveing AC/Heat when i need it is killer too. It also sucks to not be able to roll down my windows. If anyone has any insight or is located near tampa, fl i would love some help!
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Old Feb 23, 2010 | 10:53 PM
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The logicon and clock assemblies have been known to give people problems due to the soldering job on the boards not being good. You can buy a new unit from forum users, a complete new one from mazdatrix, or give it to someone who can repair boards and have them resolder everything for you. Should fix the issue.

http://mazdatrix.com/86-92Electrical-Chassis.htm
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 06:53 PM
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i have heard that with the dummy lights, but what about the windows, he needs an answer and i do too b/c the same is happening with my windows, the pasanger went down about an inch and half and just stopped, i checked the switches, motors and connections and they are good, so we are both on the same boat, any answers guys? help both in florida heat
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 07:12 PM
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In regards to the windows are you sure the regulators aren't bad? 'Vert regulators unfortunately break with some frequency now that they are 20+ years old...and they are not the same as coupe regulators.

Another potential solution for the windows is Hailers I believe had a thread about building a relay or something into the window switch electrical to make sure they are receiving full power.
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Gringo Grande
In regards to the windows are you sure the regulators aren't bad? 'Vert regulators unfortunately break with some frequency now that they are 20+ years old...and they are not the same as coupe regulators.

Another potential solution for the windows is Hailers I believe had a thread about building a relay or something into the window switch electrical to make sure they are receiving full power.
the regulators(switches right?) are fine i checked them, one was broken a bit and i fixed it. were would i find hailers thread thanks
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by kutukutu1
the regulators(switches right?) are fine i checked them, one was broken a bit and i fixed it. were would i find hailers thread thanks
Does your window switch B/L wire have voltage when the key is set to on? The switch and the regulators are completely two different items. The regulator is what the glass and the motor are connected to and the motor when told to pushes the regulator mechanism to either open or close the window.


This is the relay thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...22&postcount=8
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
Does your window switch B/L wire have voltage when the key is set to on? The switch and the regulators are completely two different items. The regulator is what the glass and the motor are connected to and the motor when told to pushes the regulator mechanism to either open or close the window.


This is the relay thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...22&postcount=8
thanks for the thread, i am not really good at electrical so i have little understanding on it. in the fsm it told me to connect a voltmeter to the br wire and to ground and i should get 12v, it dosent, but il try again tomorrow as i said electrical is not my strong part.
how would i check if the regulator is working or not?
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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by kutukutu1
thanks for the thread, i am not really good at electrical so i have little understanding on it. in the fsm it told me to connect a voltmeter to the br wire and to ground and i should get 12v, it dosent, but il try again tomorrow as i said electrical is not my strong part.
how would i check if the regulator is working or not?
Look in the link below on the second page of the linked thread, post #28, and there is an up close pic of the regulator.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+regulator+pic
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by satch
Look in the link below on the second page of the linked thread, post #28, and there is an up close pic of the regulator.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+regulator+pic
thanks for the thread, but now that i know what the regulators are, my window does go up and down with out a problem when i give the motor direct power, my cables are fine, is just when i connect the switch and i go to put up or down, they dont move, but when i apply battery power direct to the motor it works perfectly fine.
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by kutukutu1
thanks for the thread, but now that i know what the regulators are, my window does go up and down with out a problem when i give the motor direct power, my cables are fine, is just when i connect the switch and i go to put up or down, they dont move, but when i apply battery power direct to the motor it works perfectly fine.
When you say they don't move when you try to use the switch are they not moving at all or just a bit? Some of the possible problems are the B/R wire which is connected to your driver window switch "might not" be carrying voltage from the fuse box to the window switch. The job of the B/R wire is only to bring power from the fuse box to the driver's side window switch. You need to check if the B/R wire has voltage when the key is turned to on. If it doesn't show voltage then either your power window fuse is blown ( this fuse is a 30 amp fuse and it's located in your interior fuse box, 3rd row from top and on the far right) or there is an unplugged harness or there is a short in the wire( which should blow your fuse). Also, ther are two wires connected to the 30 amp fuse in the fuse box. The B/R wire takes power from the fuse box to the switch and there is a B/W wire which supplies the power to the fuse which comes from the ignition harness so this wire might not have power which would prevent the B/R wire from receiving power.

Also, your problem might be related to your window switch. The R/B wire should make the window go up and the G/B makes it go down. Take the method you used to apply power to the motor and use that info to jumper either the R/B wire or the G/B wire to the motor and bypass the switch itself "if" you know that the B/R wire is indeed bringing voltage to your switch for if it is then your problem has to be the up and down wires in the switch are not passing this voltage from the B/R wire on to your window motor.
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by satch
When you say they don't move when you try to use the switch are they not moving at all or just a bit? Some of the possible problems are the B/R wire which is connected to your driver window switch "might not" be carrying voltage from the fuse box to the window switch. The job of the B/R wire is only to bring power from the fuse box to the driver's side window switch. You need to check if the B/R wire has voltage when the key is turned to on. If it doesn't show voltage then either your power window fuse is blown ( this fuse is a 30 amp fuse and it's located in your interior fuse box, 3rd row from top and on the far right) or there is an unplugged harness or there is a short in the wire( which should blow your fuse). Also, ther are two wires connected to the 30 amp fuse in the fuse box. The B/R wire takes power from the fuse box to the switch and there is a B/W wire which supplies the power to the fuse which comes from the ignition harness so this wire might not have power which would prevent the B/R wire from receiving power.

Also, your problem might be related to your window switch. The R/B wire should make the window go up and the G/B makes it go down. Take the method you used to apply power to the motor and use that info to jumper either the R/B wire or the G/B wire to the motor and bypass the switch itself "if" you know that the B/R wire is indeed bringing voltage to your switch for if it is then your problem has to be the up and down wires in the switch are not passing this voltage from the B/R wire on to your window motor.
thank you, i have to check that, the motors work, i think the switches are fine because i tested them like the fsm showed and they have continuity, so i am gonna follow the br wire back to the fuse box to see whats the problem, thanks for the help ill let you guys know if it gets fix.
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 01:02 PM
  #12  
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Since the B/R wire connects to the switch itself, you could check for voltage at that point unless the harness is disconnected.

Edit: Also check the ground wire! This "might" be your problem.
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Old Mar 3, 2010 | 09:00 PM
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I dont know but i put a 90 vert window switch in my 90 glx and it works.THE Verts a little thinner depth wise but fits fine.
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 12:03 AM
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alright guys, i realized i was actually testing the wrong wire, but thats fine cuz i figured it out. my driver side switch is f***d up so i took it apart and did the wires directly and it worked, the driver side went down and up. now the passenger is another story, when i click for it to go down, all it does is click and it dosent move. i know the motor works, so what should i do guys?
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by kutukutu1
alright guys, i realized i was actually testing the wrong wire, but thats fine cuz i figured it out. my driver side switch is f***d up so i took it apart and did the wires directly and it worked, the driver side went down and up. now the passenger is another story, when i click for it to go down, all it does is click and it dosent move. i know the motor works, so what should i do guys?
Besides knowing the motor works what tests have you performed on the passenger switch?
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 07:17 AM
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New guys:

Listen....Your switch is bad. You can repair it by cleaning the contacts, but it will soon burn again. The contacts carry the entire load of the motor. Eventually they burn.

You can buy another known working switch on ebay or on the forum. It will burn as well. The switches are old and worn out.

The fix is clean or replace the switch, then do the relay mod. Add 2 relays per side. One relay for up and one for down. Now the switch doesn't carry the load-the relay carries the load.

Do a search for the Icemark thread and you will find a wiring diagram.

Good Luck
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Old Apr 25, 2010 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jackhild59
Listen....Your switch is bad. You can repair it by cleaning the contacts, but it will soon burn again. The contacts carry the entire load of the motor. Eventually they burn.

You can buy another known working switch on ebay or on the forum. It will burn as well. The switches are old and worn out.

The fix is clean or replace the switch, then do the relay mod. Add 2 relays per side. One relay for up and one for down. Now the switch doesn't carry the load-the relay carries the load.

Do a search for the Icemark thread and you will find a wiring diagram.

Good Luck
Look here: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/power-window-problems-899619/

I posted a modified FSM electrical schematic to show how to wire in the relays electrically.
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