My motors are good. Windows go down just fine but coming back up is another story. They have trouble and need help coming back up like they get stuck and when they do that there is a clicking noise ccoming from around the motor. Would that mean the motor is bad? I heard greasing the tracks that makes it better but i tried that and that didnt do anything to help. Any ideas?

 

It sounds like the same problem I had. I have an s4 so I can't say if the switches are the same as s5.
I took out the switches from the door and took the switch apart.. I cleaned the little copper coated see-saw tabs which look like ""V''''

which over time get coated with tons of junk and oxidation i guess. There are little circle contacts that these see-saws touch and *gently* scrape off the oxidation on there if there is any. Try not to scrape off the waffle texture or else you'll have to do this process within a few months again. After this, I sealed the outer edges of the switch with di-electric grease but I think that was just overkill. After doing this my windows went up and down MUCH faster, and I got rid of the intermittent no-worky-worky that was happening.

You can give that a try. Goodluck.

 

Ok, Ill give that a shot. Thanks

 

Oh btw the door panels have to come off. Don't try to pry out the switches or you'll ruin the arm rest If

 

I just pulled the drivers switch out and took it apart.. the prongs were clean but I tried cleaning them still. Put it back together and nothing different. Still has trouble going back up.

I didnt mess up the armrest.. thanks for the tip though.

 

I had that problem even after cleaning the switch's. The cure was to run a fused direct wire from the battery to the power feed of the drivers door switch. Now my windows fly up and down.

The issue is that corrosion build up in the wiring system between the battery and main window switch has created resistance such that the window motors can't draw all those extra amps to push the window back up. Think walking down a steep hill vs the greater labor needed to walk back up that hill. Bypassing the stock power feed cures that.

 

Would it work if I ran a wire to the fuse panel instead of to the battery? and which wire would I run the new wire too on the switch?

 

That depends on how much drop in amperage your motors can live with. Think I=E/R. That's Voltage divided by Resistance equals Amperage.

The more resistance you have, the lower the amperage. So the more electrical devices and runs of wire and wire gauge size you have in between the motors and the battery, the more resistance you will have.

For the set up that HOZZMANRX7 did (I am referring to the direct wiring only) will require at least a relay and a fuse between the window motor and the battery. You will still want to be able to control both windows from the drivers side switch and of course from the passenger side switch.

I would need to pull up the vehicle schematics to show you exactly how to wire it. Or if you have them and know how, then great.

And I too had the same problem, but I did not get as far along as HOZZMANRX7, I simply sprayed my new tracks with silicone spray. It helped but did not quite perfect the up portion. Also, my passenger side motor was used and not as powerful as the drivers side. My original motor bit the dust early on. Upon dissecting it, the motor brushes were worn out, thus I replaced it with another used one.

 

If you could find the write up that would help a lot. I can just run it to the battery if thats what is easier though too.

Thanks

 

The FSM will show you what wire to the main (drivers door) window switch is power. There is a link to a FSM in .pdf in the sticky at the top of the 2nd Gen forum.

As to fusing the wire, you can run the wire from the empty slot in the main fuse box next to the battery and buy a 30 amp fuse at Autozone (or the like) for that empty slot. Thus fused power. Then run the wire from the other side of that fuse spot through the firewall. That that point I recommend you cut the stock power wire (taking care to insolate the stock wire hot end so no future shorts), and solder/shrink tube the new wire to the wire running to the switch.

 

Go from the fuse holder in the engine bay to the drivers side window switch with your new run of wire.

If that is still not enough, you will need to pull 3 more wires from the driver's side switch to the passenger's side switch.

Another option is this:

Run your main wire from the new fuse spot in the engine compartment to both power window motors direct. Install a relay to each side of the window switch leg for each window as shown in the diagram below.

Note: this is a NORMALLY CLOSED contact relay for each leg of each motor. You wire up the negative/ground to the N.C. side of the contact.



This set up will take the wear and tear off of your window switch contacts as you will no longer be pushing 30amps through the contacts.

Note: the fuse shown needs to be the correct size for the power window motors.

 

manual windows ftw

 

I was so happy to have power windows after having manual windows in both my 85 GSL and 89 GTU. No more reaching across the passenger seat with the right hand cranking the window down or up while trying to see out the windshield and steer with the left hand.

 

It really sounds like your window regulator is worn out.

 

i had a similiar problem this weekend, my windows went down but did not come back up. i took the door panel off and pulled motor and regulator out. the track had lots of dirt and just need to be lubed up. fairly easy to do.

 

Just lubing up the track fixed your problem? is it just the track where the motor is at or on the sides too?

 

The clicking sound is the motor slipping on the strip or cable with ***** on it. Whatever the cable is called, it is hard plastic as well as the gear on the motor that pulls it, with age they wear out and slip making a clicking sound as the window goes up.

 

Lubing it up is obviously a good idea. In my case I did all that with only marginal improvement. Providing a fresh power source to the switchs resulted in light years better improvement in comparison.