Electric water pump benefits
02-08-10, 11:51 PM
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Electric water pump benefits
ive been trying to find this on other threads but no luck. im just wondering the benefits in performance with putting an electric water pump. how much of a HP can be expected.
i imagine since when i turn the a/c on the car looses so much power. imagine without the drag of the water pump how much horsepower might be regained.
i imagine since when i turn the a/c on the car looses so much power. imagine without the drag of the water pump how much horsepower might be regained.
02-09-10, 12:12 AM
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ive been reading some mustang forums since they have more info on this and they are getting more hp out of the electric pump. trust me i dont want to run electric. but what my plan is to make an electric clutch pulley(like a/c condensor) to activate and de activate the water pump. so whenever i make my pass i can free up everybit of hp i can.
02-09-10, 07:29 AM
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ive been reading some mustang forums since they have more info on this and they are getting more hp out of the electric pump. trust me i dont want to run electric. but what my plan is to make an electric clutch pulley(like a/c condensor) to activate and de activate the water pump. so whenever i make my pass i can free up everybit of hp i can.
You want to DEACTIVATE your water pump while you're making a pass?
You want to turn OFF the cooling system for your car while you're putting the MOST demand on the engine?
Why don't you just set a brick on the throttle and jump outta the car. Freeing up 150-200 lbs of weight oughta make the car faster in that pass.
Or how about this, Remove the radiator, water pump and water pump housing, and drain all the coolant and oil from the engine before you make that pass.... That's gotta add a lot of weight, and the oil pump puts some drag on the engine too.
deactivating the water pump is seriously a dumb idea and I'll wait to see your rebuild thread after you toast your engine.
If you're serious about racing, gut the interior... Light weight racing seats... And replace glass with lexan.
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S2KTom (10-23-23)
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02-09-10, 11:15 AM
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I wouldn't deactivate the stock waterpump, but an electric water pump would be a much wiser idea if you have the alternator to support it.
Pele you really think 12-13 seconds without a waterpump is gonna fry his engine? I don't know if dragsters really do turn off their waterpumps during their run, but I imagine you could leave it running until you pull up to the line, switch it off, make your run and switch it back on at the finish line. idk, I wouldn't try it myself, but I would like to know how it would turn out, so lets get swkiller to be our guinnea pig
either way, I don't think I would do this mod just to gain power, as pele mentioned there are so many other things to do first. like setting a brick on the throttle and jumping out. hahaha.
Pele you really think 12-13 seconds without a waterpump is gonna fry his engine? I don't know if dragsters really do turn off their waterpumps during their run, but I imagine you could leave it running until you pull up to the line, switch it off, make your run and switch it back on at the finish line. idk, I wouldn't try it myself, but I would like to know how it would turn out, so lets get swkiller to be our guinnea pig
either way, I don't think I would do this mod just to gain power, as pele mentioned there are so many other things to do first. like setting a brick on the throttle and jumping out. hahaha.
02-09-10, 11:26 AM
#9
electric waterpumps are great for engines that were designed from the factory for them. For example, the BMW N54 twin turbo engine uses an electric water pump to further cool the turbos when the engine shuts off.
But I don't trust aftermarket electric pumps on 80s cars with crappy electrical systems and pre existing reliability issues.
But I don't trust aftermarket electric pumps on 80s cars with crappy electrical systems and pre existing reliability issues.
02-09-10, 01:03 PM
#10
Pele you really think 12-13 seconds without a waterpump is gonna fry his engine? I don't know if dragsters really do turn off their waterpumps during their run, but I imagine you could leave it running until you pull up to the line, switch it off, make your run and switch it back on at the finish line. idk, I wouldn't try it myself, but I would like to know how it would turn out, so lets get swkiller to be our guinnea pig
02-09-10, 01:37 PM
#12
I keep asking myself "why do I bother coming to the 2nd gen section (It used to be a great place with knowledgeable guys and good technical discussions years ago, but now it's idiotic kids with repeated idiotic questions and ghetto fabulous MaD TyGhT DoRiFtO AcTiOn wanna-bes with horrid fitting wheels, tires and SHITTY fitting and SHITTY LOOKING body kits and a complete and total lack of common sense)" and now I remember why........ for a few chuckles!
~Mike............
~Mike............
02-09-10, 02:31 PM
#13
I keep asking myself "why do I bother coming to the 2nd gen section (It used to be a great place with knowledgeable guys and good technical discussions years ago, but now it's idiotic kids with repeated idiotic questions and ghetto fabulous MaD TyGhT DoRiFtO AcTiOn wanna-bes with horrid fitting wheels, tires and SHITTY fitting and SHITTY LOOKING body kits and a complete and total lack of common sense)" and now I remember why........ for a few chuckles!
~Mike............
~Mike............
i think they think they are going to revolutionize the rotary engine somehow by adding a dry sump oil pump, an electric water pump, e-fan and adding 2 rotor housings to the front of the engine with duct tape and a I<3JDM sticker.
go ahead and remove the water pump for that 5 horsepower gain, i'm sure it will cut full seconds off your passes and add tons of peace of mind.
02-09-10, 07:18 PM
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I was thinking about this as well. after 10 minutes or so of lapping, when i return to the pits i have to let the motor run until it's cool, it really frustrates the other drivers choking on that much exhaust fumes plus a little burnt oil. i know i'd have to let the EGT's come down a bit but with a water cooled turbo would i really have to let if return to 700F?
keep in mind this is on a track car with vast amounts of new wire. would also be a consideration to have the pump switched so that it only circulates fluid when it's warm enough to need it. or would this just create a hot spot at the exhaust ports?
keep in mind this is on a track car with vast amounts of new wire. would also be a consideration to have the pump switched so that it only circulates fluid when it's warm enough to need it. or would this just create a hot spot at the exhaust ports?
02-09-10, 07:40 PM
#17
I was thinking about this as well. after 10 minutes or so of lapping, when i return to the pits i have to let the motor run until it's cool, it really frustrates the other drivers choking on that much exhaust fumes plus a little burnt oil. i know i'd have to let the EGT's come down a bit but with a water cooled turbo would i really have to let if return to 700F?
keep in mind this is on a track car with vast amounts of new wire. would also be a consideration to have the pump switched so that it only circulates fluid when it's warm enough to need it. or would this just create a hot spot at the exhaust ports?
keep in mind this is on a track car with vast amounts of new wire. would also be a consideration to have the pump switched so that it only circulates fluid when it's warm enough to need it. or would this just create a hot spot at the exhaust ports?
~Mike.........
02-09-10, 07:48 PM
#18
It's entirely conceivable that Mazda will go to an electric water pump on whatever engine they come out with next. They already have auxiliary ports controlled by electric motors, a fully electric airpump and drive by wire, and electric fans controlled only by the ECU.
Again, there's a different between an engine engineered for an electric water pump and an engine that is not.
Again, there's a different between an engine engineered for an electric water pump and an engine that is not.
02-09-10, 08:10 PM
#20
It's entirely conceivable that Mazda will go to an electric water pump on whatever engine they come out with next. They already have auxiliary ports controlled by electric motors, a fully electric airpump and drive by wire, and electric fans controlled only by the ECU.
Again, there's a different between an engine engineered for an electric water pump and an engine that is not.
Again, there's a different between an engine engineered for an electric water pump and an engine that is not.
02-09-10, 08:24 PM
#21
I wish I was driving!
Quality electric water pumps with quality installations offer benefits, including MINOR power gains and improved cooling.
Yes, I said improved cooling. Full coolant flow at all RPMS, no pump cavitation at higher rpms, and with the right electric pump, higher mass coolant flow that the stock mechanical pump. The most significant benefit is the higher mass coolant flow to the spark plug region under all operating conditions.
You definitely do not want to control the pump on based on coolant set point temperature though!
More **** to break? Mechanical pumps and drive belts don't fail?
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calum.anderson36 (11-13-19)
02-09-10, 08:46 PM
#22
not as often as i'm sure an aftermarket electrical pump would i bet.
i mean mine did last about 19 years before it gave up.
if you really are intent on making me think it's worth it then try to convince me that one of those pumps will last even half that long on a daily driven car, sitting in traffic in 110F ambient temps and driving well over 100k miles.
yep belts wear but only an idiot will neglect them to the point that it will be hazardous, the original pump had 2 belts anyways.
i mean mine did last about 19 years before it gave up.
if you really are intent on making me think it's worth it then try to convince me that one of those pumps will last even half that long on a daily driven car, sitting in traffic in 110F ambient temps and driving well over 100k miles.
yep belts wear but only an idiot will neglect them to the point that it will be hazardous, the original pump had 2 belts anyways.
02-09-10, 09:08 PM
#24
I wish I was driving!
Quality pumps have a seal life expectancy of 2000 hours or higher, about the same as the mechanical pumps. The electric motors driving them are typically rated for a higher lifespan, so I should say comparable to that of mechanical pump.
As for belts breaking from wear versus just breaking... belts do just snap. I've gotten a belt that lasted a month. Manufacturing defects can and do happen, its a part of life. I'll give you the 2 belt-thing, but I was doing a direct mechanical vs. electrical comparison, as most vehicles set-ups do not use 2 belts in contact with the water pump.
As for belts breaking from wear versus just breaking... belts do just snap. I've gotten a belt that lasted a month. Manufacturing defects can and do happen, its a part of life. I'll give you the 2 belt-thing, but I was doing a direct mechanical vs. electrical comparison, as most vehicles set-ups do not use 2 belts in contact with the water pump.
02-09-10, 11:34 PM
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Wait... What?
You want to DEACTIVATE your water pump while you're making a pass?
You want to turn OFF the cooling system for your car while you're putting the MOST demand on the engine?
Why don't you just set a brick on the throttle and jump outta the car. Freeing up 150-200 lbs of weight oughta make the car faster in that pass.
Or how about this, Remove the radiator, water pump and water pump housing, and drain all the coolant and oil from the engine before you make that pass.... That's gotta add a lot of weight, and the oil pump puts some drag on the engine too.
deactivating the water pump is seriously a dumb idea and I'll wait to see your rebuild thread after you toast your engine.
If you're serious about racing, gut the interior... Light weight racing seats... And replace glass with lexan.
You want to DEACTIVATE your water pump while you're making a pass?
You want to turn OFF the cooling system for your car while you're putting the MOST demand on the engine?
Why don't you just set a brick on the throttle and jump outta the car. Freeing up 150-200 lbs of weight oughta make the car faster in that pass.
Or how about this, Remove the radiator, water pump and water pump housing, and drain all the coolant and oil from the engine before you make that pass.... That's gotta add a lot of weight, and the oil pump puts some drag on the engine too.
deactivating the water pump is seriously a dumb idea and I'll wait to see your rebuild thread after you toast your engine.
If you're serious about racing, gut the interior... Light weight racing seats... And replace glass with lexan.