cyberxn

THE TOP END GROUND WIRE FROM THE ENGINE... go's to what ground wires on the ECU Plugs?

Only Reason im asking. is im thinking about Running a Good Clean ground down to it.. if this is even a good idea.. the ECU ground is the only one i have yet to be able to get to without ripping the upper intake off.. and just dont have a way to do that

satch

iTrader: (1)

Pin 3G,3A,2R and 2C.

cyberxn

you're awsum

cyberxn

is it safe to Ground all these to a Single Ground?

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you want and there are two nuts/bolts towards the front of the ECU to choose from that secure the ECU into place.

cyberxn

would it help though?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Having a good set of grounds is the foundation for a good electrical system or are you asking if the ECU bolts are a good grounding source. If so, then yes, they most certainly are a good source.

cyberxn

Awsum. Last thing i need.. and may be noobish of me... is a Diagram of Each ECU Harness Plug...
Unsure of the location of Pin 3G,3A,2R and 2C.. or if there's a counting Method that be awsum.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Looking from the back of the ECU plugs 3A is top right corner of the smallest plug, 3G is top row second from the left, 2C is top row second from the right of the middle plug (2nd largest plug) and 2R is on the bottom row far left corner. At least 3 of the 4 if not all 4 wires are Black. Best to cut a slit in the wire, peel back about a half inch of the plastic sheath, solder in a new wire, tape and then eventually bolt it down at the front of the ECU using a bit of dielectric grease. When soldering, the gun touches the exposed wire until it gets hot enough to melt the solder onto the wires to be joined in case you didn't know this info.

cyberxn

DONE DONE AND BWAAA!??..!
ok so i did this. Found that someones had there hands on it due to the Tape and Crimped wires i found.. not exposed.. just crimped.
Took it back out for a Drive.. Fail.. it was the same.. so i took my Test LED lamp and Put it to the Test Lead for the TPS.. Warmed all the way up With the Key in the ON position, found Both LED's Lit. Touched the Throttle a little and one went out. SO. i set it to where one light was lit. Taped the Gas a Couple times to make sure the 2nd didnt come back. and took it back out for another spin.

THIS TIME.. It tried to kick on the 2nd injectors But the Car was bouncing around a bit due to it leaning out and coming back... Not sure where to go from here. i do have another Post In the same Boat as this one

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/led-tps-fix-help-944406/

Any help here would be great. The ECU is as about as Apart of the Ground as the Entire Car..

Also note that the car has a Ground Kit on it.. ive got all the key points Routed back to the Ground on the Battery

satch

iTrader: (1)

Pin 3H (front) and pin 3F(rear) are the pins for the secondaries. If you put the negative LED wire into the back of 3H and the positive LED wire into the back of pin 3I or 3J and either drive the car or leave it in the driveway with it set up for load as previously done then you can push the car past the 3800 rpm level and if the ECU is firing the signal to the secondary injector then the light will quickly flash. No flash means the ECU is the cause. Do this for both injectors.

Some more info: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...dary+injectors

cyberxn

Another Question... just got back from a Horrible ride.. took it out for a small trip maby 20 miles or so.. on the way back Pushing WOT in 2nd it got upto 3800 And Just went Nuts. Backfiring, Hesitating and so on... so.. at the light i WOT Reved it Twice. Hit 3800 And sounded like it hit a rev limiter.. IF the 2nds are not Kicking on at all would this be a Cause?
Also seem to of lost a good deal of power from 1.5 to 3.8 now.. not sure what the deal is..

But i will run this Test as soon as possible
ALSO. what are the wires to the Primary?

cyberxn

............. Took the cover off the ECU a little bit ago and noticed something odd.. just now in one of the Photo's i took of the Wire count


RIGHT Above 2M.. there's a Fat Resistor there... which Seems Burned.. Any clue what that Possibly would work with?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Front is 3E and rear is 3C though your primaries have to work for the car to run but the secondaries come on at 3800 and that's likely your problem.

cyberxn

any word about that Resistor in the pic?

satch

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't know, but if you were able to peek underneath you might tell if it was connected to a particular pin and go from there.

cyberxn

OK SO .... I built this Nifty LED Thing... Out of 4 LED's and an Eye glass Case that im Pretty happy about.. that shows the Primary's and the 2nds.. Tested in the Driveway. 2nds work perfect. Took the car out onto the road... for no reason.. the Car Was a rocket.. no issues.. NONE...
SO i WAS LIKE... ok.. to Daytona Beach then... Got up on the highway... Pri and Secs Lit and Felt perfect. No hesitation no NOTHING.. then half way there when the car Got Warmed all the way up.. and the Spark Packs warmed all the way up . AS SOON AS THE 2nds KICKED IN... POWERLOSS AND HESITATION. Little more Driving on the Primary's Under or upto 3K and the car Felt as if it had Lost power.. NOW.. on my CRUDDY Short ban O2 sensor. When this happens Its lean Enough not to Show up on the Gauge. Same thing on the 1-3K on the Primary Which makes me wonder if its an Issue with Both Sparkpacks NOT firing Correctly.
WITH THAT BEING SAID. i do have NEW Sparkplugs and Cables Installed and running 93 Octane with Lucas Fuel Injector Cleaner... ANY type of help here would be awsum


WOULD THE SPARK PACKS HAVE THIS KIND OF IMPACT.. and ... Do they like cake?... no srsly though... Could they cause this?
My Idea on this would be Faulted by the fact that i thought improper Fire would Make it rich

satch

iTrader: (1)

Might want to compare your results with another day of driving and see if there are any similarities such as the car operates properly when cold but not warm. Secondly, you don't need high octane gas at all. Thirdly, do you have factory coils or an aftermarket setup? So when the car is problematic will the lights flash when the secondaries are supposed to come online. A restrictive/clogged exhaust might be a cause for your problem but then it could be something totally unrelated. I've also seen a clogged fuel filter create the same results when it looked like the fault was something else. Also, try the simulating load in the driveway and see if you can get the car to behave properly and if so then maybe you should look over the Pressure Sensor.

cyberxn

its stock packs, straight pipe systems with a precat. and i just so happen to have a new filter i can install tomarrow. and the high octane was a troubleshooting step on my part.. as with the lucas.. but if it is the coils is there a chance of it doing this?

and yes the 2nds to light up
ADDing to this
an exsample
if im moving at 45 at 3.5K and the pri's are lit and i push it enought to kick the 2ns on as soon as there lit the cars hesitates and flops aroundlet off the gas and its good. ill still do the filter swap

cyberxn

OK WELL....... Im so pissed... yet im so happy.. pissed that.. i didnt do the Filter First... Happy... due to the fact that its running 300% better...
When i shook the old Filter... it Rattled... when i removed it.. it Backwashed.. what i think is Rust.. here's a Pic of the nastiness

<a href="http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/cyberxn/?action=view&amp;current=030811151014.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l235/cyberxn/030811151014.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Gas in the Filter was SICK..... Gas coming from the tank was clear and clean..
Replaced it... and 0 issues.... I cant Full Understand the hot cold deal.. or how it has ANYTHING to do with the Filter.. but its working.. well

Thank you so much, with the help ive Grounded the ECU and basically Did a Short Tune up