ABCDEfb

Ok, my intercooler is just blocking to much air to be effective, so I really need to buy a high CFM e-fan to replace the stocker. But I'm not sure who is good and what is the appropiate size to buy. So any of you who have purchased one, if you could give some info I would appreciate it. Maker/Size

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

go to a junkyard and pull the e-fan off of either a pontiac fiero or a ford taurus.

ABCDEfb

Sorta wanted to pamper myself with something brand new.

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

Ive got the Spal 16in 3000cfm one. You can feel the air getting pulled through from the front.

DragonRx7

Do you still have the stock radiator?

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

Nope I have a Koyo.

DragonRx7

Sorry, I should've quoted. I was asking the OP.

ABCDEfb

Yeah, I still have the stock but will be getting koyo late november, I just cant drive in traffic now. Thats why I was going to go ahead and get the fan.

DragonRx7

If you can get the radiator sooner, the stock fan would be plenty to keep you cool.

If you want the e-fan for some extra room too, I'd get this one and make a shroud if it's still warm. I have this one on my Griffin rad and I can make it run cold if I adjust where the fan comes on...and I have no shroud at all.

certifiednut

heres one it might not have the cfm you are lookin for but it has a shroudhttp://www.sneedspeedshop.com/store/...idProduct=1015

phoenix7

This one is bigger, pulls 3K CFM (more than enough air), costs much less and won't sever your finger if you are a klutz.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku


We discussed the sneed fan and shroud in a thread a while back and I think the overall opinion was that the design of the shroud should be more like a stocker in order for it to be effective.

Noel Caraballo

iTrader: (2)

just pamper yourself, just do it http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

ABCDEfb

phoenix7 wins! Thats what i'm going with.

lnlycrpr

i fabbed one up about a year ago and mounted it to my koyo radiator. https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/efan-shroud-w-pics-waddya-think-542693/ it's awesome, and you can really hear the fan pulling away. looks real similar to sneedspeeds. it's about time they fixed their shroud, now it's actually worth buying. their previous "version" was ridiculous.

NZConvertible

Bad idea. An e-fan is not going to fix whatever problem you think you have. I've yet so see evidence than any fan that fits on the radiator will performance any better than the stock fan, plus you shouldn't need an e-fan for anything other that idling and low-speed driving. Above ~30mph the amount of air being pushed through the opening in the nose is more than what the fan can suck, and at high speed a running fan can actually become a restriction.

I assume you're having a cooling problem? When does it happen? Low speed? High speed? Under load?

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

I think hes having problems at low speeds (in traffic). To the OP, you should check your fan clutch to make sure its still good. If it is, then I don't think an e-fan will help.

ABCDEfb

Well , the way I see it, if that fans clutch is bad then using an efan should alleviate the overheating in traffic. If it doesn't take care of it then I'll move on to the rad. BTW this all started when a helper fan i had on it died.

NZConvertible

If this is a low-speed problem then the intercooler you mentioned in the first post is not the problem. It's possible your fan's thermoclutch has worn out, but verify that before spending money.

You should know that quite a lot of people with FMIC's and e-fans have changed back to the stock fan because of cooling problems...

slo

iTrader: (1)

the clutch fan is that ****. E fans suck.

I have a 13b-re/rew swapped FC with a big FMIC.

Initially I had an E FAN with the 13b-re water pump. it was sensitive to overheating on a hot day. E FAN was a good one too, and was always on when driving temp stayed at 205 constantly even though it would go down and bounce off the fan turn off point when idling and bounce between those points (off/on)

Then I switched back to the clutch fan, nominal temp went back to 190 or so and the car would just stay at 190 no matter what. Even using AC it wouldn't go above 190.

Swapped in an REW water pump and had to go back to the e fan (rew pump spins backward from that of all previous engines)

Guess what, heat sensitivity is back. Again my problem is not overheating at IDLE, the E fan has no problem with idle the issue is overheating when driving when its the least bit warm.

My theory is that not only does the clutch fan have the ability to draw a **** load of air its design also leaves a large open area directly behind the radiator which works to improve flow through the radiator.

And guess what I am looking to see if I can go back to the ******* re water pump and clutch fan. Only thing which constrains me is the need to have a stock looking air pump.

I have a KOYO radiator BTW

ABCDEfb

How can i tell if the stock fan has gone bad?

dsmrx7

Here's my set-up that I picked up on this forum...

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Stock clutch fan FTW. I actually custom fabbed an intake for my T04S setup so I could keep the stock fan and fan shroud.

boostedfc3s

iTrader: (2)

+1 for the stock fan. I have all the parts to run cooler i.e. (koyo rad, engine ice, 3" downpipe w/ headerwrap) and I still couldn't get the temps down where I was happy with the E-fan. I tried no shroud and even mounted the E-fan in the round opening of the stock shroud, and nothin would do it until I put the stock mechanical fan back on. Been running cool and perfect ever since.

RotaMan99

Electric Fan Comparison Chart

NZConvertible

When the engine's cold, spin it and it should freewheel easily. After the engine's been idling for a while (at least a few minutes, assuming the temp doesn't get hot), it should be much harder to turn. Obviously turn the engine off first...