i think i might have a stock rad. should i buy a new 1 and should i upgrade to the turbo 1 for better cooling even though i have a n/a

 

n/a and turbo rads from the factory are the same.

If you think your rad is clogged then get the car warmed up, turn it off then feel around on the rad for cold spots.

The stock cooling system isnt that bad. Only reason i see for upgrading is if you plan to drift or track the car a good amount.

Are you having overheating problems?

 

only when i have a thermostat in. when i take the thermostat out it doesn't get hot but with 1 in an oem or parts store bought it gets hot. no idea why with oem it fills my overflo. with storebought it doesn't flood my over flo it just gets hot. all this is done at idle not driving around gets to 1/2 and i shut it down. so idk whats up i know running with out a thermostat is bad cause of hot spots and the coolant not being able to absorb any of the heat. but i only have a little bit longer till i can rebuild it middle of november im 100% free to rebuild it

 

Have you looked at your radiator physically, especially on the front? When I took my stocker out the back looked fine (fan side), but the front was CLOGGED with dirt. If you got the funds, get a nice KOYO.

 

+1. Back one summer when I was daily driving the car more, the rad got pretty choked with poplar fluff and dust on top of it, although I still wasn't having high temps. Dropped the undertray and vacuumed it off, easy stuff.

Internally, rads can get clogged with mineral deposits if you fill with tap water instead of distilled and good quality coolant, otherwise, it shouldn't be an issue. Poor coolant, or just too long without a change can lead to rust and metal deposits from inside the engine ending up in the rad.

 

it was quite rusty but i've flushed it 2 times since i've had it now its just a nasty looking yellow. cause i still have a lot of water in it cause i don't wanna fill it up with the good stuff and have it all go to waste with me ****** around with it. ill price out some rads for when i do my rebuild. i plan over the winter to have it completely different than it is now.

 

Our cars require a proper bypass thermostat with a jiggle pin. See the factory service manual for directions on how to install the jiggle pin in the correct position. Most aftermarket thermostats do not properly fit our cars. Here is an overview of bypass thermostats:
http://www.are.com.au/feat/techt/thermostat.htm

The stock radiator is one of the few pieces of junk that came on our cars from the factory. The plastic end tanks fatigue and swell, eventually cracking or even exploding. I recommend replacing the stock radiator with an all-aluminum radiator. The last time I was shopping for a radiator the RX-7 store had the best price on the single-pass Koyo. Make sure you save your old radiator mounting strips in case your new radiator needs them.
http://www.rx7store.net/

If you plan on swapping a 300hp+ turbo engine or racing in 10-lap road race events, then you may want to upgrade to a good racing radiator.
http://www.awrracing.com/pages/cooling.html
http://griffinrad.com/

 

Where you flushing the radiator out of the car or where you flushing the entire cooling system? The radiator itself wont rust, and don't ever flush the cooling system just straight water. It needs to be flushed with a good flushing solution, or a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. If you flush it with straight water, the irons and heater core rust up. I believe the RX7 has a steel heater core (correct me if I am wrong) and rust will equal a leaky heater core in the not so distant future.

 

I got a Ron Davis radiator and it's amazing. AC on full blast in traffic and 100°+ weather and the stock gauge never gets over 1/2.

 

i was flushing whole system never been at 100% water. so i need to go buy a manual for my car? and i still have my oem thermostat it still works i tested it in the kitchen still has this pin what does it do? how should i position it?

 

The software for this website allows for what is called a "Sticky". The forum moderators can create a Sticky and place it at the top of the list of the forum threads. You may have noticed that there is a Sticky in this forum called "Frequently Asked Questions on the 2nd Generation RX-7 - FAQ for FC". If you click on that Sticky you will find a link to free online manuals, as well as a wealth of other information.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/frequently-asked-questions-2nd-generation-rx-7-faq-fc-494667/

This forum also has an Advanced Search function that usually works pretty well.
https://www.rx7club.com/search.php

The thermostat operates when its wax pellet melts. Air is not able to transfer enough heat to melt the wax, so it will not function properly if an air bubble is trapped under the thermostat. The jiggle valve lets air escape from under the thermostat so the hot water can operate the thermostat properly.

 

First off, what series is your car?

Second off, if its a series 5, then half way up on the stock temp gauge is perfect. That means it's warm.

Third off, you need to use DISTILLED water in your radiator. No matter what the mix is. The crap that's in regular water will cause rust. Distilled water has none of that stuff so it won't rust if you don't have other contaminants in it.

 

Mazda got a lot of things right with the 2nd gen cars but the water temp gauge ain't one of them.

The S4 gauges are actually not terrible but it's ergonomically retarded to have "NORMAL" fall at @ 1/4- 1/3 of the needle sweep.

The S5 gauge is basically just an idiot light. It sits immobile at the halfway point from about 165° to over 220°...hardly "perfect" and hardly "warm".

An aftermarket water temp gauge is an absolute must for a S5 given how sensitive to overheating a rotary engine can be.

 

its an s4 1/2 to 1/3 is where its normaly at but only without the thermo

 

o and thx Evil Aviator now i know whats up