squirrels

Hey all, so I have finally started to work on my rusty tank. Got so bad I couldn't drive the car due to fuel filter being clogged completely. I've dropped the tank, used the POR-15 treatment and got the tank looking good.

Two questions now.

-One, should I have any concerns about cleaning and treating the pickup lines and the fuel gauge float assembly with the wash/prep/coat product like I did the tank?

-Two, where could I get replacement gasket material for the gauge and pickup holes? Both were torn and damaged on removal.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

One... No They'll be fine.

Two... Use a, cut your own gasket paper roll, you get at an auto parts store.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Gaskets still avai from Mazda last time I checked…
Stu
80GS
Alaska

squirrels

I've got some coming from Mazda, should be here Thursday this week.

squirrels

OK, I'm going to clean up the level mechanism and the fuel pick up tubes this evening and prep them for coating. The coating seems so thick that I was concerned that it may interfere with the operation overall. I'll keep an eye on it and maybe try and move it around some while it's drying to make sure it doesn't get stuck in a position.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't put any coating on a pickup tube or a fuel gauge sender.

I've never used POR, but I have used Kreem and it says right on the bottles REMOVE pickup tubes from the tank before coating. There is a possibility of them getting clogged. And more flow is better don't make the hole any smaller.

Also, I don't think the coating will help the potentiometer on the sender.


Why are you concerned about the pickup tubes and sender?

Do you have any pictures? Are they super corroded?

squirrels

Well, I didn't see this until today...and now the plot has thickened.

squirrels

So as an update, here's where I am.
I cleaned and coated the tank with POR. That went pretty well.
I ordered another "starter set" of POR and used that to clean the pickup lines and float/level mechanism. Both of which were extremely rusty. I could not see putting it all back together with the condition of those pieces un-adressed. It was either clean them and paint, or replace.
Tonight, after waiting 4 days for things to dry, I had everything back together and filled the car with a can of gas I had here for my generator (3 gallons). Addressed two leaks I had, one at the drain bolt, another at the top of the fuel filter. Both needed a little tightening. With that done, leaks fixed, and she finally started off. I pulled her off the ramps and headed down the street to the fuel station. Filled the car up, and headed back to the house (1/2 mile). She was running really good and strong.
I pulled into the driveway, left her running, while I aired up all the tires. They were all low. While I was doing this, I heard the car stop running. That's weird I thought. Reached in and started her back up. Aired up the last tire, It quit again. Put up the compressor hose, got in, tried to start again, and she cranks sometimes, but sputters like starving for gas. Battery needed charging, so I put her back on charge and tried to start a few more times. Same thing, sputters and won't run.
Left her charging, me frustrated, and posting this.
What do ya'll think? Could the filter be clogged with the final bunch of debris? Fuel pump gone out? I don't know what to do or how to test from here.

PS: The sender unit does not work anymore. Full tank and it's reporting empty. Qingdao I think you were spot on...but I couldn't see putting the rusty thing back in. Guess I'm working off mileage for fuel level until I"m willing to pull the tank again and replace that unit.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Well.... its murphy's law that you'd fill up the gas tank and then need to remove it.

First thing I'd check for fuel pressure. You can simply look at the fuel level in the carb windows. or depending on your setup crack a fuel line (carefully). Or simply use a gauge save you own one.
How does the pre-pump fuel filter look?

Without being there to hear the cutoff I can't tell you if its fuel related. You might be experiencing an ignition crap out.

squirrels

Yea, I am going to see about checking fuel pressure I guess. I'd an electronic ignition so no carb windows. I was thinking about trying to find the fuel pump and pulling one side off that to see if it's pushing fuel. Because it fires a little, I tend to think I'm getting spark. idk

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Are you running a Nikki carburetor? It will have little sight glass windows into the bowels on either side of the carburetor. You should have the fuel level sitting right in the middle of the window.


Its super easy to test for spark. Just take some old plugs (it doesn't matter where they came from, lawn mower plugs are fine), and stick them in the ignition wires. Lay the plugs and wires down on the left strut tower (I find that to be a good spot), and hit the starter. The plugs should lite up like Christmas tree lights.

squirrels

My car is a GSL-SE so no carb. I'm running everything stock at the moment. Last night I went ahead and installed the other new fuel filter that I had. No change. Still seems like it's not getting gas. I can't hear the fuel pump running when I turn the key to the first position. I understand this is normal, and that the pump isn't actually running until the car starts. I also saw something about a relay? Could it be that my relay is bad or a fuse is bad? What's the best way for me to test these components? Or should I just order a new fuel pump?

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

Uh oh... FI you lost me.

Got any fuel on the spark plugs?