disabled accelerated warm up process help!
09-29-10, 11:31 AM
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disabled accelerated warm up process help!
i just bought a new fc its a 86 n/a base model for some reason the owner b4 me disable the accelerated warm up process idk y 
. but my question is how can i reactive. i live in a state dat get really cold lol (IL) so this wud help me in the winter thanks for reading guys and girls
. but my question is how can i reactive. i live in a state dat get really cold lol (IL) so this wud help me in the winter thanks for reading guys and girls
09-29-10, 09:03 PM
#5
the PO deleted it because it serves absolutely NO purpose.
It has been discussed that in any circumstance, this just INCREASES wear on the engine on initial startup due to the fact that the first few seconds of startup is the most crucial because oil pressure is low.
nearly everyone has deleted it, or if they havent deleted it, bypasses it (by keeping the transmission in 1st gear with clutch disengaged).
if you're that worried about getting heat into the cabin or just getting the car warmed up, make it a routine to start the car on its first startup of the day 15min before leaving.
this is one of the quirks of owning an rx7, live with it
It has been discussed that in any circumstance, this just INCREASES wear on the engine on initial startup due to the fact that the first few seconds of startup is the most crucial because oil pressure is low.
nearly everyone has deleted it, or if they havent deleted it, bypasses it (by keeping the transmission in 1st gear with clutch disengaged).
if you're that worried about getting heat into the cabin or just getting the car warmed up, make it a routine to start the car on its first startup of the day 15min before leaving.
this is one of the quirks of owning an rx7, live with it
09-29-10, 09:25 PM
#6
the PO deleted it because it serves absolutely NO purpose.
It has been discussed that in any circumstance, this just INCREASES wear on the engine on initial startup due to the fact that the first few seconds of startup is the most crucial because oil pressure is low.
nearly everyone has deleted it, or if they havent deleted it, bypasses it (by keeping the transmission in 1st gear with clutch disengaged).
if you're that worried about getting heat into the cabin or just getting the car warmed up, make it a routine to start the car on its first startup of the day 15min before leaving.
this is one of the quirks of owning an rx7, live with it
It has been discussed that in any circumstance, this just INCREASES wear on the engine on initial startup due to the fact that the first few seconds of startup is the most crucial because oil pressure is low.
nearly everyone has deleted it, or if they havent deleted it, bypasses it (by keeping the transmission in 1st gear with clutch disengaged).
if you're that worried about getting heat into the cabin or just getting the car warmed up, make it a routine to start the car on its first startup of the day 15min before leaving.
this is one of the quirks of owning an rx7, live with it
That is nonsense! Do you have any proof and any said wear? I have 108k original miles on my Fd engine that proves other wise. My engine is one of the few engines that have eclipsed that mark. I blew the engine because of over boosting. When I torn the engine down, my non blown housing and all bearings were perfect and could have easily gone another 100k. There are far too many people here that only assume they know whats going on inside their engines but with no actual experience with inspection. I rebuild rotarys and pull them apart all the time for fun just to see what's the limits are. You would be surprised at how fast a rotary will build up carbon on the rotor faces. 5years ago I rebuilt the engine in my 91 FC vert and did an experiment on both rotors that caused low compression. Compression was so low that I had to us ATF just to get the engine to fire up. I let it run for 30 mins. When I realized that my experiment wasn't working, I torn the engine down and saw carbon deposits already on the rotor faces.
The AWS (Accelerated Warm-Up System) has a benefit that not most people realize. During a cold rotary 1st start, the computer dumps more fuel. This excess fuel will stick to the rotors face allowing for more carbon build-up. If you blip the throttle, the cold engine never builds enough heat to fully burn all that fuel of the rotor faces. You have to understand that at idle the rotors themselves aren't turning that fast. Gas coated rotors will only accelerate the carbon build-up process (which is something you don't want with any rotary). If you allow the AWS to do it's thing, the heat generated by the elevated rpms with burn the excess fuel that was dumped in. That's a fact!
Lastly, my Fd has never flooded ever. Even when I attempted to flood the engine on consecutive cold starts in 30 degree weather, it fired up every time ( and that was after it sat for 3 months with no starts in winter).
09-29-10, 09:31 PM
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That is nonsense! Do you have any proof and any said wear? I have 108k original miles on my Fd engine that proves other wise. My engine is one of the few engines that have eclipsed that mark. I blew the engine because of over boosting. When I torn the engine down, my non blown housing and all bearings were perfect and could have easily gone another 100k. There are far too many people here that only assume they know whats going on inside their engines but with no actual experience with inspection.
The AWS (Accelerated Warm-Up System) has a benefit that not most people realize. During a cold rotary 1st start, the computer dumps more fuel. This excess fuel will stick to the rotors face allowing for more carbon build-up. If you blip the throttle, the cold engine never builds enough heat to fully burn all that fuel of the rotor faces. This just accelerates the carbon build-up process (which is something you don't want with any rotary). If you allow the AWS to do it's thing, the heat generated by the elevated rpms with burn the excess fuel that was dumped in. That's a fact!
Lastly, my Fd has never flooded ever. Even when I attempted to flood the engine on consecutive cold starts in 30 degree weather, it fired up every time ( and that was after it sat for 3 months with no starts in winter).
The AWS (Accelerated Warm-Up System) has a benefit that not most people realize. During a cold rotary 1st start, the computer dumps more fuel. This excess fuel will stick to the rotors face allowing for more carbon build-up. If you blip the throttle, the cold engine never builds enough heat to fully burn all that fuel of the rotor faces. This just accelerates the carbon build-up process (which is something you don't want with any rotary). If you allow the AWS to do it's thing, the heat generated by the elevated rpms with burn the excess fuel that was dumped in. That's a fact!
Lastly, my Fd has never flooded ever. Even when I attempted to flood the engine on consecutive cold starts in 30 degree weather, it fired up every time ( and that was after it sat for 3 months with no starts in winter).
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09-29-10, 09:54 PM
#12
Well truthfully they only designed it to warm up the cat faster. That's all! But it still has the other benefits that I mentioned above. The carbon build-up happy RX8 owners could really benefit with this feature since I high majority of them don't remix.
09-29-10, 09:59 PM
#13
Now there is a system on the car that is related to the thermowax feature that will idle the car to 1500 rpm for a period of time that eventually lowers with driving time until the idle drops to 750 rpm which usually takes about 7 minutes of driving time give or take a minute or so. The AWS doesn't warm the engine up until it's ready to drive but is done for other stated reasons.
Now the AWS will not engage if it is really cold so are you confusing the two systems. Does your car go through the fast idle warm up where the rpm is elevated at around 1500 rpm or so or not. And does the car refuse to rev to 3000 rpm when starting the car on a mild to warm day?
09-29-10, 10:05 PM
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On yours it's next to the BAC on the intake. The plug is two blade shaped like a T. If it's not been completely removed just plug it in, but I wouldn't recommend it. Carbon build up aside, the rotary does not cook evenly. The coolant passages that wrap the motor help uniform the temp, allowing the housings and irons to expand evenly. AWS accelerates uneven wear, no way to dispute that.
I'd rather battle carbon build-up by water cleaning and high rpm operation.
Sounds like you take care of your car t-von, but the benefits you listed don't outweigh the real-world negatives.
I'd rather battle carbon build-up by water cleaning and high rpm operation.
Sounds like you take care of your car t-von, but the benefits you listed don't outweigh the real-world negatives.
09-29-10, 10:08 PM
#15
There are two wires running to the temp sensor on the lower part of the radiator. When the sensor senses the temp is above the threshold the sensor will have continuity on it and this signal is sent to the ECU. If the plug to the radiator was just unplugged there could not possibly be continuity on the sensor which could be sent to the ECU since it is unplugged. Also, unplugging the connector at the Air Bypass solenoid will still allow the 17 second warm up because the BAC will see that it does occur.
09-30-10, 09:43 AM
#16
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OK, there are two warmup systems on the car.
The first is the AWS. It is the solenoid responsible for the 3K startup. Mazda implemented this to control cold start emissions by lighting off the precats quickly. Functionally, eliminating this system should not effect drivability at all, so I assume you are referring to the 2nd system...
The 2nd system cold start thermowax and cam assembly, located on the rear of the throttle body. It holds the throttle open slightly when cold for a 1500 RPM idle, and as the wax melts and the cam moves, the idle gradually drops until it hits the factory 750RPM warm idle. This system is VERY important for drivability when the car is cold as the stock ECU seems incapable of maintaining a very good idle when the engine is cold. If this system has been disabled (because the previous owner was an idiot) then you should fix it.
The first is the AWS. It is the solenoid responsible for the 3K startup. Mazda implemented this to control cold start emissions by lighting off the precats quickly. Functionally, eliminating this system should not effect drivability at all, so I assume you are referring to the 2nd system...
The 2nd system cold start thermowax and cam assembly, located on the rear of the throttle body. It holds the throttle open slightly when cold for a 1500 RPM idle, and as the wax melts and the cam moves, the idle gradually drops until it hits the factory 750RPM warm idle. This system is VERY important for drivability when the car is cold as the stock ECU seems incapable of maintaining a very good idle when the engine is cold. If this system has been disabled (because the previous owner was an idiot) then you should fix it.
10-01-10, 12:08 AM
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OK, there are two warmup systems on the car.
The first is the AWS. It is the solenoid responsible for the 3K startup. Mazda implemented this to control cold start emissions by lighting off the precats quickly. Functionally, eliminating this system should not effect drivability at all, so I assume you are referring to the 2nd system...
The 2nd system cold start thermowax and cam assembly, located on the rear of the throttle body. It holds the throttle open slightly when cold for a 1500 RPM idle, and as the wax melts and the cam moves, the idle gradually drops until it hits the factory 750RPM warm idle. This system is VERY important for drivability when the car is cold as the stock ECU seems incapable of maintaining a very good idle when the engine is cold. If this system has been disabled (because the previous owner was an idiot) then you should fix it.
The first is the AWS. It is the solenoid responsible for the 3K startup. Mazda implemented this to control cold start emissions by lighting off the precats quickly. Functionally, eliminating this system should not effect drivability at all, so I assume you are referring to the 2nd system...
The 2nd system cold start thermowax and cam assembly, located on the rear of the throttle body. It holds the throttle open slightly when cold for a 1500 RPM idle, and as the wax melts and the cam moves, the idle gradually drops until it hits the factory 750RPM warm idle. This system is VERY important for drivability when the car is cold as the stock ECU seems incapable of maintaining a very good idle when the engine is cold. If this system has been disabled (because the previous owner was an idiot) then you should fix it.
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