ok...heres the deal i solved the old oil leaking problem...simple line...now i got this deal where she keeps blowing main "engine comp." fuse...my guess is a faulty/weak wire somewhere...is this common? did mazda make sh*tty wires? any help here would be appreciated...and the soon the better cuase shes getting sent to the dealer tomarrow if not fixed today!
thanks in advance
jeff

 

replaced any pullies? ie. alternator pully? Cuz this happened to me a couple times until I realized I was pulling too much juice and the alternator just wasn't pumpin' enuf. Also, it could be as you said, a short somewhere. The plastic on my electrical lines are all frail and chippin... hum.. guess I should replace mine huh?

 

yeah that would be my guess
i dunno its like everytime i turn around i see something else wrong...not major just wrong!!

 

Go over EVERYTHING you move, unscrew, replaced when you fixed the oil leak problem.

 

NO! NO! NO! Don't bring it to a Mazda dealer. They'll probably tell you you need a new engine!

 

Funny story: I had an owner tell me that Mazda told him he needed a new engine. Reason? Oil leak. I tightened the oil filter, degreased the engine, and he's never had a problem again.

 

I HATE the Rotory engine. I'd never own one, that's for sure. They're so unreliable!

Two: sounds like you are shorting your wiring harness due to crispy insulation. Happened to me. Have some fun with a DMM, and then splice out the old, shitty wire.
Mazda dealer will tell you you need a new wiring harness. $500 minimum (more like $800), plus installation.

 

dmm?!?! what the hell is that im new to mazda so help me out!!

 

DMM = Digital Mulit-Meter

Check where the continuity is broken. By unplugging different plugs in the harness and placing the positive and negative connectors on each end of the wire, this will tell you if the wire is broken or not.

Find the broken wire and fix it. It sounds so easy, yet we all know how hard it is. good luck

Oh, and like someone said, check around the areas you worked on when doing the oil line.

About the "always noticing things that are wrong"

Welcome to owning an RX-7!

 

what the hell is this stock blow off valve i hear about???

 

it's exactly what u described.... a stock blow off valve....
What do you want to know about it?

(and I think it's technically a bypass valve... but anyway...)

 

Stock blow-off valve. Known by Mazda as the air bypass valve. (Very Basic) It takes the air flowing through the intake system and plumbs it into the intake of the turbo so that when you let off the throttle, the air can be released and prevent compressor surge. If the air was not released, the turbo would keep pressurizing against the closed throttle plates, and the turbo would have a whole ton of pressure pushing it in the opposite direction.

The Stock Blow-off Valve largest check valve located on the black plastic inlet hose leading to the turbo unit, and its associated hoses.

Wow, that was about the worst description I've ever written. It's hard to explain things so that those who are yet uneducated understand.

 

thanks for the description however i did know what the unit was....at least now i know where its at...but im wondering is there a way to vent into the atmosphere without buying another manifold...ive heard our cars have an internal wastegate so that butting a BOV on the car requires a different manifold. is this true?
thanks jeff

 

what the hell are you doing worrying about the blow off valve when you're shorting the EGI Comp fuse.. I'm an old timer, please help.

 

Blow-off valve and wastegate are not attached. Blow off valve attaches after the turbo, as a separate unit. Yes, putting an aftermarket BOV requires a different manifold, but the manifold would be replacing the 4" or so long aluminum part between the intercooler and the turbo outlet pipe. The Actual Turbo unit itself remains untouched.

You can open air vent the Stock BOV, but you have to put on a check valve since the stock BOV flows both ways and creates a vacuum leak, which kind of kills the cool noise. Also, you are aware that open air vented BOV cause hesitation among shifts in mass air metered cars as the huge dumping of air (which the ECU thinks the engine is getting), causes the engine to run extremely rich and hesitate. That's why the vented air is plumbed back in behind the AFM.

If you want the noise, spend the money and buy an aftermarket open-air vented BOV. But keep in mind there is no real benefit to this on a stock turbo, other than a noise when you shift. I am more orientated on performance than fancy noises, and will gladly put that $100 towards a front mount.

Sean Cathcart