See, here's where I think there's a lot of confusion about safety. The panels themselves aren't what keep the driver safe, necessarily, from what I've learned. Otherwise, the old plastic-doored Saturns would've never survived. It's about the structure UNDER the door that keeps the driver/passengers safe. If you have a good skeleton and skin it nicely w/some CF (or FG, or plastic, or whatever material you choose), your door is going to do just as well as stock for protection.

 

A saturn's door has a metal inner structure and a side impact beam.

The door skin is plastic.

 

You could've fooled me...


-Ted

 

The OP said he was going to make the door purely out of carbon fiber.

 

i did say that
but after thinking things through
i realize that i would be wize to put a nice stainless steel tubular frame under the skin.
for my own personal car, and i suppose whoever else who would want to pay the extra, i would be putting a roll cage in that actually has the structure within the area under the door.
much like what a tubular chassis race car would have, but with functioning doors.

 

when are you going to stop posting and start building?

 

when my engines done.

 

well, let me tell you this, as an FC owner, i would never pay more than $1000 for a body kit. so there.

 

Fail

 

As already mentioned, there i the one kit that the guy with the sick vert is selling for VERY cheap, and then there is the RE-Amemiya FC2000 conversion. There is also the corksport arches (RE copies) and wide fenders as well as rivet-on quarter panels available.

The Veilside kit is ugly as sin anyway, is not AT ALL practical for a race car, and completely RUINS the FD's look.

Dude, after getting ripped off on your car, get it working right first, before getting into ANY body work aside from possible rust and ding/dent repair.

 

I think if you really plan on doing all this work, you should just get your car running and build another car from the ground up. If you have the skills you say why build a kit that makes it look like a race car when you could just build a race car.

Plus it seems like it may actually end up being almost as much work to modify an FC as heavily as you are planning than is it would be to build a whole car.

If you intent is to sell these things, I would honestly be more interested in a rull race body than a body kit which is going to make the car heavier.

 

man nothing good no updates ....

 

its pretty clear to me that the car will be lighter than stock
the only added panels are the rear quarter panels, and its a high estimate to say that they would each weigh 10 lbs. but lets say they did.
thats an extra 20 pounds
now considering how much weight is stripped off the rest of the car, how can you honestly tell me that it will be heavier???
i think i'm going to do some surface area to weight calculations to prove you guys wrong, cus i'm sick of hearing i'm wrong by people more optimistic than ME.

and i personally do plan on building a road-going race car, its just not what i'm selling
of course, unless thats what you want.

 

ok
i have searched my brains out
does anybody have any idea where i can find the weight for the stock body panels, such as;
F bumper
R bumper
quarter panels
hood
doors
thanks a lot

 

good luck... I wont be holding my breath. Dude, just listen to the responces youre getting from mostly FC owners, if your target group is not interested and not willing to pay for a product, why make it? There are other much better kits avaliable for cheaper than you will be able to sell without taking a loss. Also how are you going to make these aerodynamically effective? Do you have a wind tunnel? What angle and shape will the spoilers and lips be? Just my .02...

 

well, i do plan on using a lot of articles about liquid dynamics, and how it relates to the aerodynamics of cars.
i dont have a wind tunnel, but there are going to be no places for the air to get stuck, well, at least as much as i can possibly manage anyways.
any actual vents in the body are functional.
and is also the reason why the side vent is huge, because it will vent the under hood air out the side, and the hood out the top, instead of towards the ground.
i cant prove anything, but acording to anything i can read up on, i'm going in the right direction conceptually.

 

You cant prove anything.

And its FLUID Dynamics, air is a fluid not liquid. It takes alot of calculations and measurements for that, ever take Calc 2? Its not just reading up on it, there is alot to it.

Thats why these kits arnt cheap, you have to pay for massive amounts of time in R&D and testing. You cant just make an effective product on the first try.

 

sure you can
and my bad FLUID

 

So.... if you can make a perfect one on the first try.... why are there so many kits avaliable? Seems to me if one was perfect nobody would buy any others.

 

is there something wrong with that statement?
your a good friend

 

chaotic, i think he's only being a half-dick, because it is a logical question...for function side vents that vent engine compartment heat, you're going to have to hack something up *other* than just the body panels.

 

ehh, i guess thats a good point
i am making a tubular frame, so idk if that occurred to me.

 

Whats your obsession with stainless? Its NEVER used in cage or chassis fabrication. Its either DOM or CroMo. If you can tell me what those are I would be amazed.

 

cromoas you refer to it
is Chrome moly steel
and its incredibly strong and light

if you mean document object modeling
i have a lot of experience with autodesk inventor, a fair amount with 3ds max, and some with maya

did i get anything wrong?

 

CroMo is Cro-Molly, chromium and molebdinum, and it is by volume HEAVIER than mild steel but much stronger so you can use a smaller diameter and thickness.

DOM is Drawn Over Mandrel tube, the standard for safety cages on street and mild race vehicles.