Cooling System
#1
CC of L-Squared Shots
Thread Starter
Cooling System
1987 GXL N/A
Now, burping the cooling system normally would require loosening the bleed screw on the radiator. I didn't have one on the stock radiator and I don't know if I have one on my Fluidyne. I need to burp the system however, how? Is it possible to just remove the radiator caps?
Also, there is a screw at the BOTTOM of the Fluidyne that has a wing nut on it.
Now, burping the cooling system normally would require loosening the bleed screw on the radiator. I didn't have one on the stock radiator and I don't know if I have one on my Fluidyne. I need to burp the system however, how? Is it possible to just remove the radiator caps?
Also, there is a screw at the BOTTOM of the Fluidyne that has a wing nut on it.
#2
Clean.
iTrader: (1)
Lisle 22150 Spill-Free Funnel. Google for vendors. A forum search will show how much other users like this funnel for burping coolant.
1. Affix water tight funnel.
2. Fill funnel with a quart of coolant
3. Idle engine for a few minutes.
Simple.
The bleed screw on my '87 isn't on the radiator. It's at the high point between the fill cap and the radiator. Maybe yours is different. Wherever it is, it must be at a high point to work. Air bubbles tend to float. I think you loosen the screw just a little, so air can get out while coolant barely even trickles through it. Or just use the above method.
1. Affix water tight funnel.
2. Fill funnel with a quart of coolant
3. Idle engine for a few minutes.
Simple.
The bleed screw on my '87 isn't on the radiator. It's at the high point between the fill cap and the radiator. Maybe yours is different. Wherever it is, it must be at a high point to work. Air bubbles tend to float. I think you loosen the screw just a little, so air can get out while coolant barely even trickles through it. Or just use the above method.
#3
CC of L-Squared Shots
Thread Starter
I really don't feel like buying that kit but I may as well if I can't find anything that works.
I can't find any sort of bleeder valve anywhere.
I can't find any sort of bleeder valve anywhere.
#4
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
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You don't need to waste your money on "kits".
Using the bleed screw isn't essential, it just makes the job easier. Just fill the radiator to the very top and replace the cap, then keep filling at the filler neck cap until you can see the water. Don't fill it right up yet and don't replace the cap.
Start the engine, turn the heater to full heat and then wait for the engine to reach operating temp. You'll see through the open filler when the thermostat opens because water will start flowing and it'll steam a bit. You'll see air bubbles coming out of the water. You want to leave it idling until you only see occasional bubbles. Then fill it right up and replace the cap. Make sure the overflow reservior is at or above the FULL mark.
Go for a test drive, keeping an eye on the temp gauge. In my experience it might sit a little higher than normal at first, but as long as it doesn't keep getting higher this is fine and will go back to normal eventually.
When you return let the engine cool and then open the filler cap and top it up if required.
Using the bleed screw isn't essential, it just makes the job easier. Just fill the radiator to the very top and replace the cap, then keep filling at the filler neck cap until you can see the water. Don't fill it right up yet and don't replace the cap.
Start the engine, turn the heater to full heat and then wait for the engine to reach operating temp. You'll see through the open filler when the thermostat opens because water will start flowing and it'll steam a bit. You'll see air bubbles coming out of the water. You want to leave it idling until you only see occasional bubbles. Then fill it right up and replace the cap. Make sure the overflow reservior is at or above the FULL mark.
Go for a test drive, keeping an eye on the temp gauge. In my experience it might sit a little higher than normal at first, but as long as it doesn't keep getting higher this is fine and will go back to normal eventually.
When you return let the engine cool and then open the filler cap and top it up if required.
#5
Clean.
iTrader: (1)
That's still more guesswork as air is getting into the system at the same time as you let it out. You can do that, you can pulse the hoses, etc., but you'll never quite get all the air out.
Do the best you can using his method, hose squeezing, etc. and don't worry about it. It'll be good enough for a very long time. I'd get the funnel later just because it's a hassle without it. I mean, even if it is an overly glorified $20 funnel (and $30-$35 w/ tax & shipping, even), that's a lot better than going through all that trouble every time you want to burp the cooling system. You're never quite sure if you're done, so you have to keep doing it, test driving, etc. Compare that to fill, warm up, wait 10 minutes and forget about it 'cause you're done. You don't even have to stick around your car during the process. Do the forum search and see how much the last 50 people love it.
Do the best you can using his method, hose squeezing, etc. and don't worry about it. It'll be good enough for a very long time. I'd get the funnel later just because it's a hassle without it. I mean, even if it is an overly glorified $20 funnel (and $30-$35 w/ tax & shipping, even), that's a lot better than going through all that trouble every time you want to burp the cooling system. You're never quite sure if you're done, so you have to keep doing it, test driving, etc. Compare that to fill, warm up, wait 10 minutes and forget about it 'cause you're done. You don't even have to stick around your car during the process. Do the forum search and see how much the last 50 people love it.
Last edited by ericgrau; 08-17-07 at 10:45 PM.
#6
Rotary $ > AMG $
iTrader: (7)
That's still more guesswork as air is getting into the system at the same time as you let it out. You can do that, you can pulse the hoses, etc., but you'll never quite get all the air out.
Do the best you can using his method, hose squeezing, etc. and don't worry about it. It'll be good enough for a very long time. I'd get the funnel later just because it's a hassle without it. I mean, even if it is an overly glorified $20 funnel (and $30-$35 w/ tax & shipping, even), that's a lot better than going through all that trouble every time you want to burp the cooling system. You're never quite sure if you're done, so you have to keep doing it, test driving, etc. Compare that to fill, warm up, wait 10 minutes and forget about it 'cause you're done. You don't even have to stick around your car during the process. Do the forum search and see how much the last 50 people love it.
Do the best you can using his method, hose squeezing, etc. and don't worry about it. It'll be good enough for a very long time. I'd get the funnel later just because it's a hassle without it. I mean, even if it is an overly glorified $20 funnel (and $30-$35 w/ tax & shipping, even), that's a lot better than going through all that trouble every time you want to burp the cooling system. You're never quite sure if you're done, so you have to keep doing it, test driving, etc. Compare that to fill, warm up, wait 10 minutes and forget about it 'cause you're done. You don't even have to stick around your car during the process. Do the forum search and see how much the last 50 people love it.
Lisle spill-free is NOT a 'kit' or a gimmick. It is a legitimate tool that serves a specific and useful function. Now that I have one, I can't imagine doing without it.
Think of it this way: How many different 10mm wrenches do you have in your toolbox? I count 9 different types in my toolbox. Why do I have so many when they are all the same size? And really, couldn't a pair of pliers work? Why do I have a crow's foot and a flare nut wrench and a ratcheting combination and a 3/8 drive socket and a deep 3/8 drive socket and a 1/2 drive socket and a combination wrench and a 1/2 drive impact socket and a 10mm nut driver? The answer is that each version serves a very different purpose and is useful in that instance. Can I do without some of them? Of course I can. Do I want to do without them, once I have experienced the benefit of using the specialized tool? No way.
The spill free funnel is just like that wrench thing. I have several different funnels. I also have 7 vehicles. The lisle spill free has been in the neck of 5 of the 7. I use it every time I add or change coolant. Could I do without it? Of course I can. But now I wouldn't fill a radiator without it.
#7
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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You can do that, you can pulse the hoses, etc., but you'll never quite get all the air out.
I mean, even if it is an overly glorified $20 funnel (and $30-$35 w/ tax & shipping, even), that's a lot better than going through all that trouble every time you want to burp the cooling system. You're never quite sure if you're done, so you have to keep doing it, test driving, etc.
Compare that to fill, warm up, wait 10 minutes and forget about it 'cause you're done.
You don't even have to stick around your car during the process.
You sound a bit like a salesman trying to sell a product that does a much better job and is much easier to use. I'm sure it's a great product that works well, but it's only making an easy job a little easier, and it doesn't do the job any better.
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#8
Information Regurgitator
I use pretty much the same method as NZ except since I have an '89 I only have the cap on the radiator. I do once I get it full pulse the bottom hose a little to work some larger bubbles out before starting. After that I pretty much do as he described. In my experience this works fine. I wasn't aware of this Lisle spill free, but I'm too cheap to buy one anyway personally.
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