COOLING issue PLEASE HELP!!!!!
03-25-07, 08:29 PM
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COOLING issue PLEASE HELP!!!!!
PLEASE help me!!!
I have no idea why my car is running so hot. I just got the car back from being built and am in the process of putting the break in miles on it so I’m driving it very easy and slow. Today it was about 70 degrees and I was driving on the highway doing about 75mph – 80mph on my Autometer temp gauge it said I was at about 210 – 215ish and I got really scared because I thought what’s the temp going to be when I start beating on the car or what’s going to happen when its 100 degrees outside. I’ve never had an after market temp gauge in my car so I have no idea what the running temps should be.
I have a Greedy FMIC, Koyo radiator, stock oil cooler, Black Magic electric fan and both the upper and lower radiator panels. Can somebody PLEASE tell me what my running temp should be while at a steady speed and remember I’m not beating on it at all.
Just another little piece of info…….. the temp is fine while driving around town, it only goes up while on the highway.
Thanks for the help guys.
I have no idea why my car is running so hot. I just got the car back from being built and am in the process of putting the break in miles on it so I’m driving it very easy and slow. Today it was about 70 degrees and I was driving on the highway doing about 75mph – 80mph on my Autometer temp gauge it said I was at about 210 – 215ish and I got really scared because I thought what’s the temp going to be when I start beating on the car or what’s going to happen when its 100 degrees outside. I’ve never had an after market temp gauge in my car so I have no idea what the running temps should be.
I have a Greedy FMIC, Koyo radiator, stock oil cooler, Black Magic electric fan and both the upper and lower radiator panels. Can somebody PLEASE tell me what my running temp should be while at a steady speed and remember I’m not beating on it at all.
Just another little piece of info…….. the temp is fine while driving around town, it only goes up while on the highway.
Thanks for the help guys.
03-25-07, 08:48 PM
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To be honest I dont even know if theres a thermostat even in it. I will be checking it in the next few days.
I have a small fan shroud that comes with the fan and yes I have both the upper and lower radiator panels. I did notice a small amount of coolant dripping from the water pump BUT I dont know if that would be the problem.
I have a small fan shroud that comes with the fan and yes I have both the upper and lower radiator panels. I did notice a small amount of coolant dripping from the water pump BUT I dont know if that would be the problem.
03-25-07, 09:32 PM
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Not sure but it could be. When my waterpump was leaking from the weep hole it was operating way under capacity. After I replaced it I suddenly had leaks everywhere because the system was actually getting pressure. lol
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03-25-07, 09:34 PM
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Aside from the leaky water pump I have the same exact set up my buddy is using and he NEVER has a problem. I just dont understand why its getting so hot on the highway.
03-25-07, 10:06 PM
#9
Originally Posted by trueimport
PLEASE help me!!!
I have no idea why my car is running so hot. I just got the car back from being built and am in the process of putting the break in miles on it so I’m driving it very easy and slow. Today it was about 70 degrees and I was driving on the highway doing about 75mph – 80mph on my Autometer temp gauge it said I was at about 210 – 215ish and I got really scared because I thought what’s the temp going to be when I start beating on the car or what’s going to happen when its 100 degrees outside. I’ve never had an after market temp gauge in my car so I have no idea what the running temps should be.
I have no idea why my car is running so hot. I just got the car back from being built and am in the process of putting the break in miles on it so I’m driving it very easy and slow. Today it was about 70 degrees and I was driving on the highway doing about 75mph – 80mph on my Autometer temp gauge it said I was at about 210 – 215ish and I got really scared because I thought what’s the temp going to be when I start beating on the car or what’s going to happen when its 100 degrees outside. I’ve never had an after market temp gauge in my car so I have no idea what the running temps should be.
Originally Posted by jackhild59
The stock tstat starts opening at 177 to 182*f and is fully open at 203*f.
The Electric auxiliary fan (if your model has one, I don't know) should turn on at 207*f and it turns back off when the temp drops to 194*. I believe that temperature to be somewhat above the temp where the engine-driven fan is fully engaged, but that is only my educated guess. FSM does not specify that temp.
From this FSM data, I think we can safely say that anything below 203*f is not quite fully warm and anything above 207* is where Mazda calls for all the cooling measures designed into the system to be called into action.
03-25-07, 10:07 PM
#10
I am not sure whether you do or do not have the under engine belly pan. If you do not have it you will have trouble cooling on the highway with that front mount.
1.Check for the complete belly pan.
2. check for an OEM ONLY thermostat. (If you just got the motor bebuilt and it doesn't have a thermostat, you probably have other problems too.)
3. Warm up the engine at idle and check to see if coolant is rushing through the radiator.
4. Did you take off the airpump? The single remaining belt will slip at higher rpms, leading to cooling issues on the highway. If you did you need to install a duel pulley on the alternator.
5. Lots of people have had highway cooling issues with front mounts.
You basically need to have everything in place working effectively.
6.Replace that leaking water pump. It may or may not contribute to your issue, but you can count on it causing trouble.
Good luck!
1.Check for the complete belly pan.
2. check for an OEM ONLY thermostat. (If you just got the motor bebuilt and it doesn't have a thermostat, you probably have other problems too.)
3. Warm up the engine at idle and check to see if coolant is rushing through the radiator.
4. Did you take off the airpump? The single remaining belt will slip at higher rpms, leading to cooling issues on the highway. If you did you need to install a duel pulley on the alternator.
5. Lots of people have had highway cooling issues with front mounts.
You basically need to have everything in place working effectively.
6.Replace that leaking water pump. It may or may not contribute to your issue, but you can count on it causing trouble.
Good luck!
03-26-07, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by jackhild59
I am not sure whether you do or do not have the under engine belly pan. If you do not have it you will have trouble cooling on the highway with that front mount.
1.Check for the complete belly pan.
2. check for an OEM ONLY thermostat. (If you just got the motor bebuilt and it doesn't have a thermostat, you probably have other problems too.)
3. Warm up the engine at idle and check to see if coolant is rushing through the radiator.
4. Did you take off the airpump? The single remaining belt will slip at higher rpms, leading to cooling issues on the highway. If you did you need to install a duel pulley on the alternator.
5. Lots of people have had highway cooling issues with front mounts.
You basically need to have everything in place working effectively.
6.Replace that leaking water pump. It may or may not contribute to your issue, but you can count on it causing trouble.
Good luck!
1.Check for the complete belly pan.
2. check for an OEM ONLY thermostat. (If you just got the motor bebuilt and it doesn't have a thermostat, you probably have other problems too.)
3. Warm up the engine at idle and check to see if coolant is rushing through the radiator.
4. Did you take off the airpump? The single remaining belt will slip at higher rpms, leading to cooling issues on the highway. If you did you need to install a duel pulley on the alternator.
5. Lots of people have had highway cooling issues with front mounts.
You basically need to have everything in place working effectively.
6.Replace that leaking water pump. It may or may not contribute to your issue, but you can count on it causing trouble.
Good luck!
1) Yes I have the under belly pan (lower radiator panel)
2) I will be checking to see what thermostat I have
3) I will be doing this again because the other day I checked it and it wasn’t moving very much at idle
4) Yes the air pump is gone. I don’t have anything other than the alternator. There is NO WAY my belts are slipping I have the pulley kit from Tweekit in Australia. Its a 2 inch wide belt that looks like a super charger belt again there is no way its going to slip. With the teeth on the belt it has no choice BUT to spin.
5 & 6) Yeah I'm trying to get all the bugs worked out from where the shop left off. I know that the thermostat and the water pump are going to be the first 2 things to be changed!!!!
I just wanted to find out what the "normal" meaning not under hard driving conditions, is the temp going to be with a FMIC.
03-26-07, 12:49 PM
#12
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
210 is a little high with a FMIC but not out of the ball park. When I had FMIC on my old vert, it usually ran right at 200.
Do you have any underdrive pullies on the car?
Nomally overheating at freeway speeds or heavy load indicates either the wrong thermostat, a failing water pump or poor airflow through the radiator.
Is your black magic fan really up to the task? Does it turn off at freeway speeds (it should) and is it mounted and wired so that the fan is pulling air through the shroud into the engine compartment? If it was wired backwards (for example) the air flow would be worse at above 45 MPH than at 25 mph.
Do you have any underdrive pullies on the car?
Nomally overheating at freeway speeds or heavy load indicates either the wrong thermostat, a failing water pump or poor airflow through the radiator.
Is your black magic fan really up to the task? Does it turn off at freeway speeds (it should) and is it mounted and wired so that the fan is pulling air through the shroud into the engine compartment? If it was wired backwards (for example) the air flow would be worse at above 45 MPH than at 25 mph.
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