Selonari

iTrader: (4)

clamp is as tight as can be yet it sprays out between hose and engine block material and not through a hole, etc.

why is this?

thanks ahead of time!

Selonari

iTrader: (4)

was spraying onto my turbo and getting taken into the engine

Nightstrife

it kinda sounds like a hole inside the radiator hose that runs along the plys of the hose. try takeing the hose off and seing if there is any damage inside

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Well, it's either the hose, or the aluminum pipe it bolts to. Good news and bad news.

Bad: it's not something you can put silicone/RTV on to fix.

Good: both parts are replaceable.

Selonari

iTrader: (4)

ah, I didnt think about that possibility.
ill check that out.

Selonari

iTrader: (4)

and thankyou AGreen!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I wrap Teflon tape around the Thermo neck and the Rad Outlet Pipe,etc,.
Any place where the hose mates to the other Parts.That way it is Snug,and makes it tighter install onto the part,then put a clamp on,should be tight and not diggin in to the hose.
I noticed that aftermarket hoses have a loose feel when Installing them,This is why I do it..Peace of mind and a solid grip on the Clamp area without overtightening the Clamp and making Cuts into the hose.

Selonari

iTrader: (4)

so teflon in between then?

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Teflon tape is not going to help.

First make sure you are using a good hose clamp, not a stripped one.

Take the upper hose off and examine the inside of the hose and the alumnium outlet inside and out.

The outlet It may be pitted to the point of having holes in it and need to be replaced, or the hose could be bad.

I had mine off a few weeks ago and the outlet was pitted but not leaking.

Selonari

iTrader: (4)

hmm, alright. if the outlet is the problem what does one normally run for?
and from what site? im assuming mazdatrix as its oem?

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

You will know right away if it is the outlet. Mazdatrix sells new ones, they aren't too expensive. Between $50 and $70 depending on the year/model.

If it is the outlet, you could probably fix it with JB weld. Clean it up, fill the pits with JB weld and grind/sand the filled areas smooth.

Selonari

iTrader: (4)

alright, thanks a bunch
I never really thought that it could be the problem and just automatically assumed it was the rad tubing,

turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

mine did this and i couldn't figure it out until my coolant seals went. my engine was pressurizing my coolant system and causing coolant to seap out between the hose and neck.

Selonari

iTrader: (4)

how was it doing that.... im going to kill myself if thats the case for me.
I mean, coolant already becomes pressurized when the engine gets up to temperature so...

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

This part pits heavily after use and abuse (especially from poor coolant-water mixtures). But can be replaced easily by just swapping the thermostat housing.

When you install a new hose, don't bother with worm gear hose clamps. Head to the local hydraulic or trucker store and get nice T-bolt clamps. They put down even torque and don't cut into the hose.

Here's an image of a T-bolt clamp:



You can see T-bolt clamps on both the coolant pipe and turbo piping.

turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

combustion gasses from the engine started being pushed into the coolant system and my radiator cap must be bad.