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It could be a number of things. Two easy suspects are the coolant hose from the rear orin to the throttle body or intake manifold o-rings. You would benefit from pressurizing the system with a pump designed to do just that. You can pull the turbocharger and install new gaskets on the feed and return lines for the coolant and oil if you suspect that the issue is from one of the coolant lines on the turbo.
Check the thermostat housing as the "O" ring shrinks and leaks. Put some talcum powder in the area so you can see the path of the leak.
Possibly rent/borrow loaner cooling system pressure tester.
i hope it's not the tension bolts... and the engine has been rebuilt by a professional not long ago (well almost 10 years ago, but i think i've only done 20000km since then).
I'm bringing the car to the garage today, i hope for the best...
Likely not the tension bolts. Likely a faulty gasket or hose. If it leaks when you pour coolant in the engine you should be able to find the leak pretty quickly.
Very likely the intake manifold o-rings. The seat into the rotor housings and seal between the lower intake manifold and the housings. Do you have any pictures so we can help confirm this?
No picture yet. The car is still at the mechanic shop. I got a call from the guy there that the water was leaking from the intake manifold and on the exhaust. I'll get it back by the end of the week. He can't fix it now. How hard is it to do it by myself and how long should it take ?
Ok, got some precision from the shop, it leaks at the contact plan between the engine and the lower intake.
So i have to change the seal and the O-ring will probably need the seal between lower and top intake as well.
correct me if i'm wrong, my plan of action is :
- disconnect the battery
- drain the coolant
- remove the fan and its hood
- remove the air filter box and the duct to the turbo
- remove the intercooler
- remove accelerator and cruise control cable
- remove the brake vacuum hose
- remove the boost sensor vacuum hose
- remove the split air pipe
- remove air pump
- remove second vacuum piping
- remove throttle and dynamic chamber
- remove air control valve
- remove water pipe
- remove intake manifold
... that a lot of stuff to be removed, i didnt expected it to be that much... also i suppose i will have to remove the ABS system, which is in the way...
little feedback here. it's definitely the lower intake that leaks.
I'm preparing my shopping list of what is needed. So far i'm thinking lower and upper intake gasket, intake O-rings and injector seal kit (recommandation of my mechanic, that it will be the best time to put new ones).
Do you see any other replacement parts that should be changed at the same time or that will be probably too damaged to be reinstalled ?
I would go through the vacuum lines and replace any, one by one, if they are becoming brittle. Inspect the fuel feed and return hoses while you have the manifolds off. And be extremely careful with the oil metering pump lines as they will crack if pulled without care. Inspect the coolant hose that runs from the rear iron to the throttle body. Now is a good time to replace this hose.
You're going to need all new feed and return line gaskets for the oil and coolant lines on the turbocharger as well as the turbo to manifold gasket, manifold to engine gasket, and turbo to pre-cat gasket. You will have to remove the ACV as well as the BACV and will need gaskets for those as well.
That looks absolutely perfect. You may not have to replace the oil metering pump lines. Just be careful not to break them. For vacuum line, I just buy an entire roll and cut off what I need. I do the lines one by one so that there is no chance of mixing any of the lines up.
i brought back the car to my home. But it's parked in an underground parking of the building.
So it's not really a good place to work on it (no space, i can't leave the tools or parts, no light, etc...).
So i'll bring it back to the shop when there is a spot available in the mechanic schedule (probably not before next year).
In the meantime i'll order the necessary parts in order to bring them to mechanic when he starts working.
Like this he can do it one shot and don't have to wait for 3 weeks the delivery of a missing gasket.
Therefore i think he has what's necessary to replace vacuum line.
For the oil metering line, if he can change them, that will be at least one thing to not think about afterward...
If you are going in that far, you may as well replace the oil metering pump lines. You may also want to consider replacing the coolant hoses and clamps on the turbo. I should have mentioned that previously about the small coolant hose in the turbo. It tends to get brittle as you can imagine. If the inlet boot that runs from the mass airflow meter to the turbo is cracked where it clamps to the turbo, you will want to replace that as well. It's very common to have those dry out and crack. They are not cheap but s new one will last you another 25 years.
for the rest, are you talking about the 3" pipe that comes from the air intake ? because this one is find, i mount and dismount it everytime i work on the car as it is always in the way...
The hose that you posted is the one that I was talking about. Glad to hear that your inlet boot is still in good shape. They often dry out and crack where the clamp secures the inlet boot to the turbo.
I'm still waiting for the quotation on the metering lines and the injectors grommets from my mazda dealership but i think i covered everything this time.
by the way i think my turbo coolant hose was brand new cause i changed it when i tried to remove my air pump... not sure... in any case this aint really that expensive...
09-10-19, 12:37 PM
