Column Mounted Switchgear- A Journey Into Madness
03-29-12, 08:29 AM
#26
I found the wiring diagrams (thank you, interwebs!) and began plotting the integration of the combo switch.
So far everything looks quite straightforward except for the wiper circuit.
There is a "wiper amplifier" module that seems to control the intermittant interval -a function I frankly don't give a damn about- RainX, FTW!, but am mulishly insisting on keeping.
I'll revisit the donor carcass on the way to work this morning and grab the module.
Although I doubt anyone will follow in my footsteps, I'm trying to make this conversion as complete as possible- i.e., no lost functionality and as easy as possible.
So really this is more a proof of concept than a how-to-do.
I've also been considering my mounting options.
While searching for donors, one definite consideration was the complexity of the mounting bracket.
Many combo switches mounted on multi-plane, oddball brackets (usually integrated with the ignition switch) that would be a nightmare to reverse engineer.
The Altima part is a simple, single plane, three screw bracket that I can easily fabricate.
But that begs the question of how to attach it to the column.
Standard OEM practice would be a steel bracket tack welded to the column tube but I'm hesitant to commit to a (semi) permanent change so early in this process.
For instance, I might find a nicer combo switch that would be mounted differently or I may want to revert to stock again...who knows?
Anyway, I'm thinking my first attempt will be a 1/4" aluminum piece JB welded to the column.
Easily machined, thick enough to thread for the mounting screws and hopefully, enough surface area on the column (which is 1.259" diam.) to make a joint strong enough to resist the input forces on the stalks.
Another option is 1/2" thick ABS plastic.
Again, easily machined and a greater amount of surface area on the column but I'm unsure of glue strength between the disparate materials.
It's a difficult stage in a project like this because should it fail, one never knows if the concept was flawed or the execution was crap.
Decisions, decisions.
So far everything looks quite straightforward except for the wiper circuit.
There is a "wiper amplifier" module that seems to control the intermittant interval -a function I frankly don't give a damn about- RainX, FTW!, but am mulishly insisting on keeping.
I'll revisit the donor carcass on the way to work this morning and grab the module.
Although I doubt anyone will follow in my footsteps, I'm trying to make this conversion as complete as possible- i.e., no lost functionality and as easy as possible.
So really this is more a proof of concept than a how-to-do.
I've also been considering my mounting options.
While searching for donors, one definite consideration was the complexity of the mounting bracket.
Many combo switches mounted on multi-plane, oddball brackets (usually integrated with the ignition switch) that would be a nightmare to reverse engineer.
The Altima part is a simple, single plane, three screw bracket that I can easily fabricate.
But that begs the question of how to attach it to the column.
Standard OEM practice would be a steel bracket tack welded to the column tube but I'm hesitant to commit to a (semi) permanent change so early in this process.
For instance, I might find a nicer combo switch that would be mounted differently or I may want to revert to stock again...who knows?
Anyway, I'm thinking my first attempt will be a 1/4" aluminum piece JB welded to the column.
Easily machined, thick enough to thread for the mounting screws and hopefully, enough surface area on the column (which is 1.259" diam.) to make a joint strong enough to resist the input forces on the stalks.
Another option is 1/2" thick ABS plastic.
Again, easily machined and a greater amount of surface area on the column but I'm unsure of glue strength between the disparate materials.
It's a difficult stage in a project like this because should it fail, one never knows if the concept was flawed or the execution was crap.
Decisions, decisions.
03-29-12, 08:41 PM
#28
Yeah, well, that whole situation became rather ah, fluid.
A temporary hiccough that freed up the time to pursue this folly instead.
My junkyard jaunt for the wiper amplifier went poorly...in the last 24 hours that whole section got devoured by the crusher gnomes.
This is a minor but awkwardly unexpected thing to happen...need to do some more research.
A temporary hiccough that freed up the time to pursue this folly instead.
My junkyard jaunt for the wiper amplifier went poorly...in the last 24 hours that whole section got devoured by the crusher gnomes.
This is a minor but awkwardly unexpected thing to happen...need to do some more research.
03-30-12, 06:15 PM
#29
The internets came through again so, GOOD NEWS EVERYONE!
Turns out, many Nissans from @1998 >on use (what I hope is) the same amplifier unit.
I was able to identify and collect one from a 2001 Exterra, along with the switch surround.
Hopefully, that's everything I need.
Total cost to date is $35 for the switch unit, the amplifier and the surround.
Turns out, many Nissans from @1998 >on use (what I hope is) the same amplifier unit.
I was able to identify and collect one from a 2001 Exterra, along with the switch surround.
Hopefully, that's everything I need.
Total cost to date is $35 for the switch unit, the amplifier and the surround.
03-30-12, 09:42 PM
#30
Sideways is the only way
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Subscribed. I've already replaced my headlight switch which completly burned out. now I have only medium speed wipers that don't park. sometimes I can get the wiper switch to work as normal if I hit it a couple times but sudden downpours are scary if my medium speed can't suffice.lol
03-31-12, 09:00 AM
#31
With all the hardware now gathered, there are a couple of details to work out before install can begin.
The primary issue, the only one I need address right now, is the mating collar 'twixt the wheel and the switch.
Our collars and steering wheels mate (stud into hole) at the 12 and 6 o'clock position, the Nissan collar has three studs in a triangle orientation. Either I modify the wheel or the collar- technically either would work so I'm trying to imagine side effects beyond the initial assembly.
This matters because of the way the T/S switch works.
The collar (dark blue in the pic above) is spring loaded and is pressed into the switch as the steering wheel is installed. If it isn't depressed far enough (@ 1/2") the collar won't engage the cancelling sprags...depressed too far and the switch binds.
There is about 1/8" of leeway between the two extremes.
Since I'm positioning the mount bracket on the column I can accommodate for any method I use but I do need to decide (and execute) the fix before moving on.
The only other detail that directly involves the combination switch is the horn.
I've deleted the "clockspring" assembly that the Nissan uses and will cobble in some sort of slipring transfer but that can be done later.
Had I been interested in trying to use wheel activated cruise (both my FD and MX-6 steering wheels have controls on them), I'd have kept the clockspring but that veered dangerously close to fatal mission creep territory, so I opted out.
Secondary side effects of the swap will be the loss of the other functions bundled with the stock main switches- hazard, interior illumination control, rear window defrost and the headlight "clean" position.
The first three I plan on dealing with in stage two of the project, the headlight raising can just go away. I hope to convert the lighting to keyed operation only- I've never understood the logic of leaving the lights on with the key removed, hello dead battery!- so that separate function will become moot.
Flash to pass should still work.
I won't claim to have known ahead of time, but the Nissan choice is turning out better than I'd suspected.
Because Nissan uses essentially the same part for a wide variety of models, it's dirt cheap and ubiquitous. It's modular, the two main switches unbolt with two phillips screws and can be had brand new for $40 apiece. The whole assembly is only $80 and a new amplifier is $40, so you could have all new **** for very little money.
Some higher end models came with options (the lighting stalk can also turn on the fog lamps, for instance) and these switches cost exactly the same as the lesser ones and bolt right in.
So, cheap and (semi) factory customizable...not bad.
The primary issue, the only one I need address right now, is the mating collar 'twixt the wheel and the switch.
Our collars and steering wheels mate (stud into hole) at the 12 and 6 o'clock position, the Nissan collar has three studs in a triangle orientation. Either I modify the wheel or the collar- technically either would work so I'm trying to imagine side effects beyond the initial assembly.
This matters because of the way the T/S switch works.
The collar (dark blue in the pic above) is spring loaded and is pressed into the switch as the steering wheel is installed. If it isn't depressed far enough (@ 1/2") the collar won't engage the cancelling sprags...depressed too far and the switch binds.
There is about 1/8" of leeway between the two extremes.
Since I'm positioning the mount bracket on the column I can accommodate for any method I use but I do need to decide (and execute) the fix before moving on.
The only other detail that directly involves the combination switch is the horn.
I've deleted the "clockspring" assembly that the Nissan uses and will cobble in some sort of slipring transfer but that can be done later.
Had I been interested in trying to use wheel activated cruise (both my FD and MX-6 steering wheels have controls on them), I'd have kept the clockspring but that veered dangerously close to fatal mission creep territory, so I opted out.
Secondary side effects of the swap will be the loss of the other functions bundled with the stock main switches- hazard, interior illumination control, rear window defrost and the headlight "clean" position.
The first three I plan on dealing with in stage two of the project, the headlight raising can just go away. I hope to convert the lighting to keyed operation only- I've never understood the logic of leaving the lights on with the key removed, hello dead battery!- so that separate function will become moot.
Flash to pass should still work.
I won't claim to have known ahead of time, but the Nissan choice is turning out better than I'd suspected.
Because Nissan uses essentially the same part for a wide variety of models, it's dirt cheap and ubiquitous. It's modular, the two main switches unbolt with two phillips screws and can be had brand new for $40 apiece. The whole assembly is only $80 and a new amplifier is $40, so you could have all new **** for very little money.
Some higher end models came with options (the lighting stalk can also turn on the fog lamps, for instance) and these switches cost exactly the same as the lesser ones and bolt right in.
So, cheap and (semi) factory customizable...not bad.
03-31-12, 04:02 PM
#33
So, here's something that happened.
Wandering the yard this morning, killing time before work, I stumbled upon a car I hadn't examined before.
What caught my eye was the orange graphics...very unusual.
The car was a mess-rollover and hit from both ends, I couldn't tell what it was.
Turns out it was (is) an '87 Mazda 626, so a contemporary of the FC which made me wonder...
After some effort I was able to remove the steering wheel (no airbag, yay!) and remove the combination switch, which may turn out to be THE ONE.
It's so close to perfect it's scary.
The transfer collar and spring loaded horn stud are identical to ours, the FC steering wheel will fit right up.
It's hard to see but there is a clamp around a collar on the rear of the unit...it's meant to slide onto the column and clamp on.
Which couldn't be any simpler.
If it fits.
Initial measurements show the collar is about .059" too small but I should be able to deal with that.
Maybe.
I've done no research into the wiring but a quick online search shows that new replacement switches are in the $50-70 range...more than the Nissan's but still not ridiculous.
And of course, there's the orange graphics.
For those with the stock gauges and center stack, these will fit right in.
Wandering the yard this morning, killing time before work, I stumbled upon a car I hadn't examined before.
What caught my eye was the orange graphics...very unusual.
The car was a mess-rollover and hit from both ends, I couldn't tell what it was.
Turns out it was (is) an '87 Mazda 626, so a contemporary of the FC which made me wonder...
After some effort I was able to remove the steering wheel (no airbag, yay!) and remove the combination switch, which may turn out to be THE ONE.
It's so close to perfect it's scary.
The transfer collar and spring loaded horn stud are identical to ours, the FC steering wheel will fit right up.
It's hard to see but there is a clamp around a collar on the rear of the unit...it's meant to slide onto the column and clamp on.
Which couldn't be any simpler.
If it fits.
Initial measurements show the collar is about .059" too small but I should be able to deal with that.
Maybe.
I've done no research into the wiring but a quick online search shows that new replacement switches are in the $50-70 range...more than the Nissan's but still not ridiculous.
And of course, there's the orange graphics.
For those with the stock gauges and center stack, these will fit right in.
03-31-12, 10:52 PM
#36
So, here's something that happened.
Wandering the yard this morning, killing time before work, I stumbled upon a car I hadn't examined before.
What caught my eye was the orange graphics...very unusual.
The car was a mess-rollover and hit from both ends, I couldn't tell what it was.
Turns out it was (is) an '87 Mazda 626, so a contemporary of the FC which made me wonder...
And of course, there's the orange graphics.
For those with the stock gauges and center stack, these will fit right in.
Wandering the yard this morning, killing time before work, I stumbled upon a car I hadn't examined before.
What caught my eye was the orange graphics...very unusual.
The car was a mess-rollover and hit from both ends, I couldn't tell what it was.
Turns out it was (is) an '87 Mazda 626, so a contemporary of the FC which made me wonder...
And of course, there's the orange graphics.
For those with the stock gauges and center stack, these will fit right in.
04-01-12, 09:39 AM
#39
OK, baby steps.
Turns out that on the inside of the switch mounting collar there are two nubbins (at 6 and 12 o'clock) that must drop into holes in the column...I assume these locate the switch on the column and the clamp fastens it down.
A few seconds with a Dremel, the nubs were gone and the switch DOES slide onto the FC column.
But...
The Nissan switch did not require the total removal of the stock FC bracket, I just bent the ears till they broke but the 626 switch needs more room on the column, so the welds must be ground down.
This is doable but even so, it's going to be close.
Not too far behind the bracket the column tapers up to a larger diameter (where the ignition switch is mounted) and the question is, can the switch slide far enough down the column before it bottoms out...if not, the steering wheel will jam the switch as it's tightened.
Like I said, it's going to be very close.
I could take some measurements but there's no real downside to cleaning the old bracket off the column, so I may as well just do it and physically test.
Even if it works, I may go with the Nissan switch anyway.
I do not need nor want the cruise function to be on the stalk (like the 626).
Unlike the Nissan, the Mazda switch does not include the stalk itself, that's a whole separate part which means replacing faded graphics is more difficult.
Plus, I already have a very nice surround for the Nissan but nothing for the Mazda switch (although the Nissan surround is eerily close to fitting the Mazda and may actually work).
Dunno, we'll see.
If I still had the stock gauge cluster, the orange 626 switches would be a no brainer but I don't...in fact, I've been "de-oranging" my car and using the Nissan switch furthers that goal (only the Logicon would still be orange and that's on the chopping block as well).
This also occurred to me...
If you (and by "you" I mean "anyone with a mostly stock cluster/bezel who's thinking of this") actually follow through, there will be empty holes in the bezel where the graphics used to glow (I'm referring to the holes on the face, not the ones on the side where the ***** are, those will be filled with rubber body plugs).
That's basically six little display ports that could possibly be used as warning light locations, freeing up space where the idiot cluster sits (popular for gauge installs).
If someone is feeling ambitious...
Turns out that on the inside of the switch mounting collar there are two nubbins (at 6 and 12 o'clock) that must drop into holes in the column...I assume these locate the switch on the column and the clamp fastens it down.
A few seconds with a Dremel, the nubs were gone and the switch DOES slide onto the FC column.
But...
The Nissan switch did not require the total removal of the stock FC bracket, I just bent the ears till they broke but the 626 switch needs more room on the column, so the welds must be ground down.
This is doable but even so, it's going to be close.
Not too far behind the bracket the column tapers up to a larger diameter (where the ignition switch is mounted) and the question is, can the switch slide far enough down the column before it bottoms out...if not, the steering wheel will jam the switch as it's tightened.
Like I said, it's going to be very close.
I could take some measurements but there's no real downside to cleaning the old bracket off the column, so I may as well just do it and physically test.
Even if it works, I may go with the Nissan switch anyway.
I do not need nor want the cruise function to be on the stalk (like the 626).
Unlike the Nissan, the Mazda switch does not include the stalk itself, that's a whole separate part which means replacing faded graphics is more difficult.
Plus, I already have a very nice surround for the Nissan but nothing for the Mazda switch (although the Nissan surround is eerily close to fitting the Mazda and may actually work).
Dunno, we'll see.
If I still had the stock gauge cluster, the orange 626 switches would be a no brainer but I don't...in fact, I've been "de-oranging" my car and using the Nissan switch furthers that goal (only the Logicon would still be orange and that's on the chopping block as well).
This also occurred to me...
If you (and by "you" I mean "anyone with a mostly stock cluster/bezel who's thinking of this") actually follow through, there will be empty holes in the bezel where the graphics used to glow (I'm referring to the holes on the face, not the ones on the side where the ***** are, those will be filled with rubber body plugs).
That's basically six little display ports that could possibly be used as warning light locations, freeing up space where the idiot cluster sits (popular for gauge installs).
If someone is feeling ambitious...
04-01-12, 01:18 PM
#40
Well, it fits.
It's not plug-n-play but not terrible either.
I used a disk grinder to remove the remainder of the FC sensor bracket from the column tube.
I left the column in situ, so it was kind of awkward...took about 20 minutes or so.
I then used a 1" sanding drum to ream out the inside of the switch mounting collar.
This took multiple trial fits- gaining a bit each time- till it finally slid home. Probably only removed a few thou but it took a while to creep up on it. It helps that it's ABS plastic and very easy to machine. I think I spent more time walking back and forth than anything else.
Even without the clamp the switch doesn't move as the stalks are activated, with the clamp it's solid as a rock.
I left about a 2mm gap between the wheel and the transfer collar, I can go back further if need be.
T/S cancels perfectly.
The stalks are further from the wheel than I'd like, I don't know if one of my other wheels will be better or if the stalk angle is just bad. I'll have to see what the Nissan switch is like.
At any rate I think I'm going to keep going with the 626 part and see how it goes.
It solves the three issues unresolved with the Nissan part- mounting, wheel interface and horn- and means I might have the wiring done as soon as tomorrow.
That would be interesting.
It's not plug-n-play but not terrible either.
I used a disk grinder to remove the remainder of the FC sensor bracket from the column tube.
I left the column in situ, so it was kind of awkward...took about 20 minutes or so.
I then used a 1" sanding drum to ream out the inside of the switch mounting collar.
This took multiple trial fits- gaining a bit each time- till it finally slid home. Probably only removed a few thou but it took a while to creep up on it. It helps that it's ABS plastic and very easy to machine. I think I spent more time walking back and forth than anything else.
Even without the clamp the switch doesn't move as the stalks are activated, with the clamp it's solid as a rock.
I left about a 2mm gap between the wheel and the transfer collar, I can go back further if need be.
T/S cancels perfectly.
The stalks are further from the wheel than I'd like, I don't know if one of my other wheels will be better or if the stalk angle is just bad. I'll have to see what the Nissan switch is like.
At any rate I think I'm going to keep going with the 626 part and see how it goes.
It solves the three issues unresolved with the Nissan part- mounting, wheel interface and horn- and means I might have the wiring done as soon as tomorrow.
That would be interesting.
04-01-12, 02:13 PM
#41
Sideways is the only way
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you're the man. This is pretty detailed but I wonder if you would do an even more detailed writeup with more pics if you gt it all working and installed. I can figure it out from this but there are some holes that someone with less experience might get confused. It would be a great service to the community here.also, have you figured out how to park the wipers with either of the new switches? I saw that the "park" function was embedded in the FC wiper switch so don't know if that amp you were talking about was that solution or not.
I wonder if the FD stalks would have fit any better. I know the chassis is completely different and wiring, so odds are it would be just as difficult but still... (not that this is difficult really to anyone with some mechanical ability.)
04-01-12, 06:08 PM
#42
The FD switch bolts to a bracket, it'd be just as hard to mount as the Nissan.
Wiring shall commence tomorrow, so we'll see.
I took a short ride with the (non-functional) switches in place and am happy to say that the stalk placement is pretty good. The Nissan stalks have more of an angle (and are thus closer to the rim) but I got used to these right away.
Switch feel is good, detents are positive...I think I like this.
Wiring shall commence tomorrow, so we'll see.
I took a short ride with the (non-functional) switches in place and am happy to say that the stalk placement is pretty good. The Nissan stalks have more of an angle (and are thus closer to the rim) but I got used to these right away.
Switch feel is good, detents are positive...I think I like this.
04-01-12, 06:53 PM
#43
Senior Member
It's hard to tell , but the straight angle of the 626 levers does it still clear the stock FC cluster surround? Great work / knowledge on this whole instrument renewal project. Thanks for shaing.
04-01-12, 09:21 PM
#44
Sideways is the only way
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^ If I did this conversion, I'd fab up a new cluster surround not unlike the FD or 98-00 subie impreza rs. it comes out and around at the top but flows inward toward the dash at the bottom. I'd try to incorporate at least my oil and coolant level warning lights from the idiot cluster and hopefully have at least 2 other warning lights in there as well. put the headlight cleaning switch to a toggle on the left on the dash and hazards and defrost as buttons on the side of the clustr surround kinda like they are now. not hard to do with foam and fiberglass but I'd probably try to find a similar surround to work off of from another car and modify. I'm getting excited, I may have to start this myself but I need wiring guidence (not an electrical man) so I 'll wait till clokker figures it out lol.
04-01-12, 09:46 PM
#45
Now that the mounting is done, electrical is next.
Having trouble finding an online FSM, I may have to access AllData tomorrow.
It's weird- if the plugs were correct, the stock wiring is almost long enough to pop right into the switch.
FC_fan,
During my gauge cluster research there were a few clusters that interested me but were not usable because of the FC bezel.
Losing the bezel meant losing the switches, hence my detour into this mod.
As I said in the beginning, I have a much larger agenda.
04-03-12, 08:02 AM
#46
Cold and curiosity conspired to slow things down.
Sunday it was 80°, today we have light snow.
No sense being miserable says I, let's do some research.
Still no luck with the 626 FSM, so I was just looking at images of combination switches and was struck by the unusual config of Miata switchgear.
Found on eBay for $40 shipped.
Note how the stalks come up and out, this might make bezel clearance less of an issue.
Since the Miata also has pop-up headlights, I'm hoping the switch will be very similar to ours electrically...we'll see.
My switch, being from a later model (2007, IIRC), came with a clockspring (obviously removed from my example) so the steering wheel will fit the transfer collar (seems like most Mazda steering wheels will interchange) but I'll have no horn.
This was also true for the Nissan switch and I'll deal with it the same way (which for now means "later").
A bit of trivial digression...
Most of the gear I've been looking at is from the airbag era, which means it'll have a clockspring instead of a slipring for the horn.
I hate the term "clockspring" because there are no springs nor anything "clocklike" about it. You'll have that from time to time, I guess.
It'd be simplest to keep the clockspring for the horn signal and this shouldn't be a problem unless you still have the stock FC steering wheel.
FD, Miata, MX6...a shitton of Mazda wheels- all clockspring compatible- will bolt right on to the FC, as will some Mitsubishis.
The Momo FD adaptor hub fits as well, so any aftermarket wheel can be used.
/detour
I bought the part, should be here in a week or so, I'd guess.
Now to find some diagrams...
Sunday it was 80°, today we have light snow.
No sense being miserable says I, let's do some research.
Still no luck with the 626 FSM, so I was just looking at images of combination switches and was struck by the unusual config of Miata switchgear.
Found on eBay for $40 shipped.
Note how the stalks come up and out, this might make bezel clearance less of an issue.
Since the Miata also has pop-up headlights, I'm hoping the switch will be very similar to ours electrically...we'll see.
My switch, being from a later model (2007, IIRC), came with a clockspring (obviously removed from my example) so the steering wheel will fit the transfer collar (seems like most Mazda steering wheels will interchange) but I'll have no horn.
This was also true for the Nissan switch and I'll deal with it the same way (which for now means "later").
A bit of trivial digression...
Most of the gear I've been looking at is from the airbag era, which means it'll have a clockspring instead of a slipring for the horn.
I hate the term "clockspring" because there are no springs nor anything "clocklike" about it. You'll have that from time to time, I guess.
It'd be simplest to keep the clockspring for the horn signal and this shouldn't be a problem unless you still have the stock FC steering wheel.
FD, Miata, MX6...a shitton of Mazda wheels- all clockspring compatible- will bolt right on to the FC, as will some Mitsubishis.
The Momo FD adaptor hub fits as well, so any aftermarket wheel can be used.
/detour
I bought the part, should be here in a week or so, I'd guess.
Now to find some diagrams...
04-06-12, 07:58 AM
#50
Yup, I screwed up, got lazy and didn't fully research my buy and got the wrong part.
I thought I was buying the whole assembly, what I got was the headlight/TS stalk only.
The seller accurately described it, I just didn't pay attention.
It's a very nice stalk though.
So nice that I started following it's part number trail and discovered that not only Mazda uses it, it's very popular with Subaru as well.
This is excellent news.
My junkyard is loaded with Subies, many of which I looked at but none in depth.
In fact, I was severely hampered in my initial search by a lack of tools.
Seems like the majority of airbags are retained with a weird Torx screw (it has a peg in the middle) and I of course didn't have such a tool.
Since I couldn't remove the airbag, I couldn't remove the steering wheel and couldn't really look at the combo switch.
Subaru fori revealed that I need a T-30 Torx socket and I'm hoping to get one this morning on the way to the yard.
Then I'm going to molest some Subies.
I thought I was buying the whole assembly, what I got was the headlight/TS stalk only.
The seller accurately described it, I just didn't pay attention.
It's a very nice stalk though.
So nice that I started following it's part number trail and discovered that not only Mazda uses it, it's very popular with Subaru as well.
This is excellent news.
My junkyard is loaded with Subies, many of which I looked at but none in depth.
In fact, I was severely hampered in my initial search by a lack of tools.
Seems like the majority of airbags are retained with a weird Torx screw (it has a peg in the middle) and I of course didn't have such a tool.
Since I couldn't remove the airbag, I couldn't remove the steering wheel and couldn't really look at the combo switch.
Subaru fori revealed that I need a T-30 Torx socket and I'm hoping to get one this morning on the way to the yard.
Then I'm going to molest some Subies.