I'm wondering if my TII swap vert is running poorly because of timing at this point.
The car had a TII engine running correctly previous to now, but melted a wiring harness last year due to poor wiring, so I replaced it with a TII harness that I had, and then (months later) the coolant seals went in the old engine, so I replaced it as well, and now the problems arise.

If I give it no to light throttle (under about 1/3) it runs fantastic.
If I givei t more than 1/3 throttle (even under no load sometimes) it dies, falls flat on it's face, runs on one rotor or not at all.


I've replaced the following since I had it all laying around:
Fuel pump, fuel filters (both in-tank and at the motor), fuel, AFM, TPS (and tried disconnecting it).
I haven't swapped ECU's yet but I am thinking about trying that today.


ONE thing though that I'm not sure on (how to set exactly correctly) is the timing on this motor.

I adjusted the CAS fully counterclockwise and according to my timing light that seems to be the "correct" timing, or as close as possible to it.. That makes the car run the worst. (checked at around 1200RPM, it won't hold a steady idle below that at this point)

If I adjust it fully clockwise (which my tmiing light shows as the white marks appearing waaaaayy to the left of the mark on the front cover) the car will allow much more throttle before dying, even WOT on rare occassions, but not often.

Also I noticed when I revved the engine with my hand while watching on the timing light the timing didn't seem to move much... shouldn't it be advancing the timing as RPM's increase?

 

Replaced the ECU and coils today. Adjusted the timing like 10 times.
NO difference at all, except now the convertable top stopped working.

Anyone have ANY insight here at all?

 

did you ever bother to check your injectors...

 

nope, I'm going to swap them out next.

It's handy having all this crap laying around sometimes :P

 

so I'm thinking it's either a bad primary injector or wire?

I noticed today that if I /ease/ the revs over 3800 (or downshift so they're above it) the car FLIES. and has no stumble at all!

 

Timing cannot be set with the rpms over 1000 rpms. The ECU advances the timing over 1100-1200 rpm. So the timing should be set closer to 750-800 rpm.

 

Timing cannot be set with the rpms over 1000 rpms. The ECU advances the timing over 1100-1200 rpm. So the timing should be set closer to 750-800 rpm.

 

Timing cannot be set with the rpms over 1000 rpms. The ECU advances the timing over 1100-1200 rpm. So the timing should be set closer to 750-800 rpm.

 

Not to disagree with you Hailers but aren't you supposed to jumper a green connector (I don't remember which one) which raises the idle to about 1,200 in order to set the timing. It's pretty much the opposite of what you just posted.

 

I've never had my idle jump to 1200 when I jumpered the connector with a voltmeter. Read the voltage through the current, but no jump in idle.

 

The Initial Set Coupler only puts the BAC at a set duty cycle. It will not effect the setting of the timing.

Installing the Initial Set Coupler should not make the idle go UP. Just the opposite. The idle MIGHT drop a couple of hundred. Certainly not rise up.

And somewhere right around 1100-1200 rpm the timing will advance. If you have a RTEK2.0 you can see that on the Palm, or if you don't, just slowly raise the engine speed from approx 750 to above 1100 rpm and you can't help but see the jump in rpms as you reach that 1100 rpm. Or even better, use a timing light and raise the rpms from 750 to above 1100 rpms and you'll see the timing jump when looking at the pulley marks.

And I know the FSM says to install the initial set coupler to set the timing, but I just pull the plug off the BAC. Same thing.

If the rpms are over 1100 rpm and you use a timing light, when you get through your going to have one messed up timing.

1100rpm isn't the exact figure. I'd have to look that up. Not required as far as I'm concerned.

My multiple posts above were not my doing.

 

The ISC does nothing to disable the car from feeding in timing corrections... All it does is disable the BAC.

Engine speed MUST be below 1k to get an accurate reading.

 

10.86 sec Teddy bears are always right.