the terminals on the switch were busted when I was moving the radiator on accident.

is this just for the idiot light buzzer for coolant or whats it really do and why cant autozone carry it if its important, this is my only car

 

i say drive it. if it runs fine, then thats good. i assume you have an s4? i dont think it will matter
but try it out

 

yeah, s4.

 

yea thats your accelerated warmup sensor, basicaly when your cars cold it revs to 3k for 10 sec to heat the cats up, not really needed

 

in the close up picture, it looks like you highlighted two plugs. those are two seperate plugs. the top one is for the coolant, im not sure what the bottom one is. i has two plugs right? warm up?

 

You don't technically need it as long as the wires are connected. If I am looking at it right it is the coolant level sensor. If it is unplugged, you'll hear nothing but buzzer and you'll also never know if you are truely low on coolant. Connect it up because it can sure help save your *** if for some reason you develop a coolant leak.

Mine busted, it drove me batshit crazy. I have never wanted to fix something so fast in my life.

Edit: I believe if you run low on oil the "add coolant" light also comes on with our S4's. You want that light off so you can spot this problem also.

 

You're looking at it wrong. Actually he's highlighted it wrong. He's talking about the radiator temp switch in the bottom tank, not the radiator level sensor in the top tank.

Leave it disconnected, don't worry about it.

 

It's for emissions. I believe the AWS. As Hailers NZ said, leave it off.

 

no, I highlighted the right one, I'm looking at the manual and they name it just as they do above.

but anyways its gunna buzz?

 

nah it won't buzz, the buzzer comes from the sensor at the top of the rad. if thats broken you'll go crazy from the sound

 

U mean the top sensor at the radiator?

if u don't want to hear the buzz connect the wire (from car) to a ground source....

but i suggest u go to your nearest junkyard and get that for like a buck,

 

look at what you highlighted. in the close up the highlighted the bottome and the top plugs.

 

yeah

is it at the TOP of the rad or the bottom?

Either way it's not stricticly necessary for proper operation of the vehicle. The bottom one is totally useless (for AWS) and the top one is the low coolant buzzer, the wire for it must be grounded though unless you want to hear the buzzer all day, I agree with whoever said you'll never want to fix something faster than that in your life, cos it will drive you totally bonkers within 30 seconds

 

ah yeah I see what you mean now, lol.

the broke one is the sensor at the bottom.

and the nearest junkyards dont have any rx7s ive ever seen there and i've been to them probably for the past few years heh. it sucks

 

Ok, then completely disregard everything I said.

 

GOTCHA!!! I knew if I looked long enough I'd find an ERROR!

You, the author of this post need to do something about it. IF you have to pass emissions. IF you leave the wires disconnected you will find that when you drive the car and put your foot to the pedal the RELIEF solenoid will de-energize and let the ACV dump air from the airpump right away, instead of sending it to the catalalytic converter where it should be going.

To overcome this, just jumper the two wires at the switch together to put a gnd on the ECU to prevent what was described above.

I've written about this before, but today I was playing with my RTEK2.0 and watching the input/output page and watched the Relief Solenoid signal both with the water temp sw connected and with it disconnected. The results are as described above.

I wonder how many cars have failed emissions over this simple switch?? A few, the rest went to the boneyard.

 

What would we do without our resident secondary air control guru.

So can you use the Rtek to confirm the radiator temp switch's effect on the AWS?

 

Sad to say, they neutered the AWS. I'm forced to hold the throttle open for 17seconds so I can have accelerated engine wear.

The diognostics page does show whether or not the water temp switch is functioning or not. Mine works, like most things on MY car.

The n/a RTEK2.0 is supposed to do away with the variable resistor and use that wire for another thing all together. I can't say I'm real fond of that idea. I've always enjoyed screwing around with the variable resistor screw. Oh well.

And I'm not much of an expert. For several years now I thought that the Port Air solenoid was non functional after 20,000 miles. Not so evidently. Seems I've had its function 180 out from reality.

 

does that mean i can eliminate that process by disconnecting the wire??

 

Why don't you do it and tell us?