Zokus

Alright, I have searched, but since all things I have questions about are rarely in the same thread, and there are a lot of useless threads to go to I'm going to post this anyways.

I live in Alberta so I don't have to worry about emissions. What I want to know is:

Oil Metering pump, I'm going to block this off on my S4 and run premix and also plug the injection holes. Anything else I should worry about?

EGR, I'm going to block this off also. What problems can I expect with this, and what do I do about it? Is there anything else I have to change when I do this?

Air Control Valve, same questions as EGR, however I'm more concerned about this one.

BAC Valve. Again, same questions. I would appreciate any instruction.

Locations where I can buy everything I need for removal of the air pump, since I no long have a Cat and have a resonator instead.

I will continue to search for answers, but if anyone feels kind enough to make that easier by posting answers I'd be much obliged.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

OMP - I have not messed with and intend on keeping it.

EGR - fine IMHO without it. You block it off and cap the vac lines (two iirc). I spray some RTV into the rubber peice and push it down. Make your own gasket (or buy one)

ACV - remove it, block it off ( use a new gasket or make your own), there are two vac lines that go to the back of the motor. Cap and remove them, leave the one that goes to the pressure sensor.

BAC - I suggest going to Kevin Lander's site (I'de link you if I could spell) and check that out. You'll see what you need to remove and cap when you do it. But keep in mind coolant flows through the BAC from the water pump to rear rotor so you'll need to run a new coolant line that goes straight from the water pump to the rear rotor. So do something like my picture suggests. Thanks Kahren for the picture.

PS: Found the link: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ go there and check out the emissions install.

I hope that helped?

Zokus

Props to you, thanks for the help. More opinions still welcome though!

NZConvertible

Remove them, install block-off plates and cap all vac lines you disconnect. Job done. As long as there are no vac leaks you'll have no problems. The most reliable way to ensure that is to use new gaskets under the block-off plates. Either buy them from Mazda or make them from gasket paper.

The BAC valve is for idle speed control. It has nothing to do with emissions control. Why do you want to remove it?

You don't need to buy anything to remove the air pump. You just remove it and you're done.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

But if you do remove the air pump I suggest a dual alternator pulley.

Zokus

Thanks for the reply. I thought the screw on the TB was for idle adjustment, at least thats what Haynes says for my N/A. I didn't know why the BAC was there. I'm trying to get rid of everything I don't need in my eninge bay. As for disconnecting and capping everything off, is it a good idea to leave the solenoids that those Vac hoses run to connected to the the wiring harness? Or should I disconnect that too?

NZConvertible

That's for setting the base idle speed. The BAC valve is for idle speed control, reacting to changing loads on the engine and assisting with starting the engine and cold-idle.

You don't need to leave them connected.

adrock3217

Note: If/When you block off the oil injector holes with bolts, use SHORT ONES. Bring one of the injectors with you to a hardware store, find the correct thread/pitch..then match up the thread lengths. Then pick one that is 1 size shorter.

Zokus

Alright, thanks. I'll leave that on then.