Blown coolant seals? (video included)
08-31-17, 02:27 PM
#1
Blown coolant seals? (video included)
i have an 86 GXL with an 88 TII swap and i was bleeding the cooling system yesterday after finishing the swap and I was wondering if i have a possible coolant seal failure. No white smoke, it does smoke a tiny bit when idle but it smells like oil/fuel (which is a different concern in itself)
here is the video
what do you guys think?
here is the video
what do you guys think?
09-06-17, 12:00 PM
#2
Senior Member
Damn it seems my video with a situation like that is lost from ytube.. cant tell for sure but i think it's ok especially if you dont smell coolant from the exhaust.. just my opinion. But those big bubbles are suspicious.. do they keep coming?
09-07-17, 05:44 PM
#3
this clip was recorded after a complete engine, and radiator drain and refill and about 5 mins of idle with the coolant funnel. i think the big bubbles were coming from air trapped deep inside the engine. I have a temp gauge i need wire up, but i dont think i have the right size thread pitch sensor. if anyone knows the pitch on the coolant drain plug on the drivers side of the block, or that can direct me to a site that has the sensor i need that will fit i would appreciate it. thanks guys
09-07-17, 11:22 PM
#4
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The drain plug pitch can be found in threads for installing an aftermarket gauge.I remember distinctly the guys talking about that..and IF my Melon is working right I think it was Clokker who mentioned it or stated it.
09-08-17, 02:02 AM
#5
Senior Member
this clip was recorded after a complete engine, and radiator drain and refill and about 5 mins of idle with the coolant funnel. i think the big bubbles were coming from air trapped deep inside the engine. I have a temp gauge i need wire up, but i dont think i have the right size thread pitch sensor. if anyone knows the pitch on the coolant drain plug on the drivers side of the block, or that can direct me to a site that has the sensor i need that will fit i would appreciate it. thanks guys
09-08-17, 03:30 AM
#6
Coolant flows not so much "through" as "around" the throttle body and yes, that circuit can be problematic.
Water is pumped from the rear of the waterpump housing, over the BAC (in the form of a ludicrous screwed on sink) and then through the thermowax device on the throttle body before flowing back into the rear iron (or is it rear housing?).
These are small ID bore hoses and there's aluminum and iron components, so corrosion is an issue.
Without knowing the general condition of your car, it's worth noting that while you should inspect this circuit, depending on model, it can require some disassembly. Nothing terribly onerous but you may need some gaskets, vac line and (maybe) water lines (which are molded/specific and not cheap), so be forewarned.
The stock temp sensor is a weird British Pipe Thread but a standard 1/8 NPT seems to work OK.
Heresy I know, but it's worked for me...
There's a 14mm blind plug in the lower front iron that is good if you can gain access (i.e., no AC or PS).
And there's an undrilled mounting pad in the rear of the pump housing that's perfect if you want to go to the trouble of drilling and tapping.
Water is pumped from the rear of the waterpump housing, over the BAC (in the form of a ludicrous screwed on sink) and then through the thermowax device on the throttle body before flowing back into the rear iron (or is it rear housing?).
These are small ID bore hoses and there's aluminum and iron components, so corrosion is an issue.
Without knowing the general condition of your car, it's worth noting that while you should inspect this circuit, depending on model, it can require some disassembly. Nothing terribly onerous but you may need some gaskets, vac line and (maybe) water lines (which are molded/specific and not cheap), so be forewarned.
The stock temp sensor is a weird British Pipe Thread but a standard 1/8 NPT seems to work OK.
Heresy I know, but it's worked for me...
There's a 14mm blind plug in the lower front iron that is good if you can gain access (i.e., no AC or PS).
And there's an undrilled mounting pad in the rear of the pump housing that's perfect if you want to go to the trouble of drilling and tapping.
09-08-17, 08:30 AM
#7
Red Pill Dealer
iTrader: (10)
Biggest difference is 1/8" BPT is 28 tpi vs 27 tpi for American standard pipe (NPT). Slight difference in the taper size but brass is soft and will, to a certain degree, conform.
Last edited by TonyD89; 09-08-17 at 09:41 AM.
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09-08-17, 10:24 AM
#8
Coolant flows not so much "through" as "around" the throttle body and yes, that circuit can be problematic.
Water is pumped from the rear of the waterpump housing, over the BAC (in the form of a ludicrous screwed on sink) and then through the thermowax device on the throttle body before flowing back into the rear iron (or is it rear housing?).
These are small ID bore hoses and there's aluminum and iron components, so corrosion is an issue.
Without knowing the general condition of your car, it's worth noting that while you should inspect this circuit, depending on model, it can require some disassembly. Nothing terribly onerous but you may need some gaskets, vac line and (maybe) water lines (which are molded/specific and not cheap), so be forewarned.
The stock temp sensor is a weird British Pipe Thread but a standard 1/8 NPT seems to work OK.
Heresy I know, but it's worked for me...
There's a 14mm blind plug in the lower front iron that is good if you can gain access (i.e., no AC or PS).
And there's an undrilled mounting pad in the rear of the pump housing that's perfect if you want to go to the trouble of drilling and tapping.
Water is pumped from the rear of the waterpump housing, over the BAC (in the form of a ludicrous screwed on sink) and then through the thermowax device on the throttle body before flowing back into the rear iron (or is it rear housing?).
These are small ID bore hoses and there's aluminum and iron components, so corrosion is an issue.
Without knowing the general condition of your car, it's worth noting that while you should inspect this circuit, depending on model, it can require some disassembly. Nothing terribly onerous but you may need some gaskets, vac line and (maybe) water lines (which are molded/specific and not cheap), so be forewarned.
The stock temp sensor is a weird British Pipe Thread but a standard 1/8 NPT seems to work OK.
Heresy I know, but it's worked for me...
There's a 14mm blind plug in the lower front iron that is good if you can gain access (i.e., no AC or PS).
And there's an undrilled mounting pad in the rear of the pump housing that's perfect if you want to go to the trouble of drilling and tapping.
Heres what the fitting i picked up looks like: also i wonder if there is enough contact area on the sensor itself once it tightened. idk
Last edited by DankestKush; 09-08-17 at 10:50 AM.