fcdin

iTrader: (1)

Ok ever since this accident my car wont start because the battery keeps dying. Heres the thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-non-technical-pictures-198/rx7-accident-809517/

Now I believe that grounding can play a big roll in this right? Does anyone know of any major grounds over in that area i was hit at? Or does anyone have any other ideas? This happened to me before with the grounding on the alternator.

katkaroto

you check your alt?

Icemark

Grounding???Why does everyone think grounding is the solution and problem for everything?? Is it just that people don't really understand how electricity works???

Grounding....???

Maybe in fact that the power motor for the passengers headlight is not turning off because the headlight is not retracting all the way. That is probably your problem.

Unplug the passengers headlight motor, and as long as the battery is in good condition then you won't have the problem of a battery draw. Based on the damage in the pictures you had headlight motor and alignment issues.

Of course if the impact jarred the battery enough, it could have broken a cell or two in the battery... which would lead to not holding charge too.

And I would assume that voltage was already checked... that with the engine running you have at least 13.5 volts and preferably 14.4 volts. If not at least 13.5 volts with the engine running you probably have a bad alt.


...

And just so you understand a little more about electrical systems... if a positive battery wire was grounded it would either smoke and burn up, or blow a fuse. If the negative battery wire grounded.. well absolutely nothing would happen, just because the negative side of the battery is already wired to ground at the bottom of the drivers shock tower.

If the side marker positive wire was grounded it would either blow a fuse, or blow out the headlight switch. Of course when the headlight switch is turned off, there would no longer be power for the side marker.

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

Alternator is good! I always carry a spare now since ive had bad experiences and I have a volt gauge being around 14ish.

But yes the power to the motor thing makes sense. I'll do it tomorrow and see how it goes. Other than that, if the battery is bad I will get a new one. Thanks Icemark!

Mr.FC3s

you carry a spare alt?

wow your like McGyver

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

lol yeah i do...my alternator died on me twice in less than month. First one was from Car Quest brand new. Died and I didnt not know why. I was out of state too so couldnt go to any car quest there to get replacement. Then got a reman one new. It died on me when I was going back to Des Moines, IA from St. Paul, MN one hour into the drive. Had to wait 3 hours for my brother to come. And my car got towed. So thats why I always have a spare. Just in case. Ive learned my lesson

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

Ok a little up date.

So We can jump my car and it staying running meaning good alt. Volts still read well too.

Last night we were gonna try jumping it again and unplugging the head light motor (witch I couldnt find). Anyways, I was blocked in on both sides of the car (I live at an Apt) so we couldnt really jump it. So I decide, I'll take the battery out and charge it on my buddies car as he started his car to warm it up. My battery is sitting at his head light (not on the ground) and we are holding it there. Five to ten minutes past and I said, ok lets try. Put it in and no power what so ever still. No sign of anything at all. I noticed that when trying to charge the battery theyre were no sparks or static noise when putting on the jumpers. Even when I out it back in my car.

So is the battery at fault and took too much of an Impact during the accident and broke the cell(s)?

HAILERS

To disarm the headlight/retract motor, just pull the Headlight fuse and Retract relay in the engine bay fuse box. The FAQ has a picture of the engine bay fuse box and what fuse is which.

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

Im guessing its the one that says "HEAD" and "RETRACTOR" 30A FUSES.

HAILERS

Yeah. I dumbed out and wrote *relay* instead of fuses.

The power that goes to the headlight relay, is at that relay 24hrs a day . What makes the relay pull in, is putting a ground on that relay by turning the headlight switch on/off. So if the fuse is pulled........the headlights can't work nor pull down the battery.

The retractor fuse needs to be pulled to disable the headlight retractors.

I EDITED this post because.......it was initially wrong.

HAILERS

I'd take that battery and put it on a charger or take it off the car and put jumper cables to it from another car for a minimum of thirty minutes. Then install it in the OTHER car and see how it does. Or fully charge it and let it sit overnight and see if it held a charge. Or take it to some place like autozone and have them check it out.

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

Thanks much Hailers. I wouldve wasted money just trying to figure out this problem if I didnt have you guys. But yeah, today I'll probably have no one beside my car sometime so I can jump it and let it run so it can charge and I'll take out the two fuses. And if the battery still dies Im going to get a free replacement at Wal mart since I got 2 year FREE replacement. They can check it out over there too I believe.

fcdin

iTrader: (1)

Ok so UPDATE

Took the battery back to wal mart to get it tested and checked. It only read 7 volts the guy said. So I got a free replacement.

But when I charged it off of my buddies car for 5 to 10 minutes using jumper cables and put it back into my car. I turned the key and no power. No reading of 7 volts. why didnt it read?

So if the battery isnt fully charged will it read under 12v when tested? I think so. But then again how did the Wal Mart guy say that his tester said 7 volts when in my car it was nothing at all? Was it a test just to see how much it could hold?


Ive been going out to my car every 2 hours or so checking up on it too. Just to see if somethings draining the power. No major signs yet. Still just very little under 12 volts.