1988 N/A
SAFC Installed - Not Tuned
2.5" exhaust from Manifold back.
S5 UIM / S4 LIM - Electronic VDI

Is there anyway I can keep the timing from advancing so much at 1500rpm till about maybe 2500, or maybe have it slowly start advancing instead of doing a big jump at 1500?

I listed some of the basic upgrades above if anyone needs to know to answer my question

Thanks
Justin

 

Retard box?
Full standalone?
Emanage blue with ignition harness/emanage ultimate?

I don't think you can alter the ECU's timing without altering the engine timing entirely, i.e. moving the CAS out a tooth or two. But that would affect the entire timing, not just the transition point.

I think some types of aftermarket ignition setups like the MSD have add-on boxes you can use for controling RPM during launch or for retarding during NOS shots etc, you may want to look into one of these because other than that I think a full standalone is really your only other good option.

 

Darn. I was hoping there was something I could do other then a standalone. I guess I have to wait till Rtek comes out for n/as

Anyone else have any ideas?

 

why do you want to change the stock advancement? Why not just go for an across the board change?

I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think that the timing advances under a certain temperature or before heavier throttle is added --- if you manipulated that sender you could possibly change the time when it advances.

 

That sender being the crank angle sensor?

 

Unless there's something I don't understand, no matter where you cinch the crank angle sensor down, THAT is where the ECU is going to think TDC is (well, really L 5 and T 20 ).

The ECU will advance the timing around 1100 rpm.

 

It just seem wrong to have the timing advance so much at one point at around 1500, which is where I see it advance heavily. The engine does not like it. It pops like crazy. Even if I add or remove some fuel it doesn't make a difference. Only if I retard the timing by the CAS so it does not advance as high, will the engine run without poping or on rare occasions, miss, but then I don't have as much power higher up in the rpm range.

 

Exactly, thats what I meant........I was just wondering how sar thinks you can muck with the CAS, I don't believe there is any way to adjust the RPM point that the ECU advances without some kind of external control or other ECU. Im just wondering how he thinks this is possible.

 

You might try giving the cas thing a try although I don't think it will work. Nothing to lose.

You might try installing the initial set coupler and see if that effects anything. Can't drive like that though.

Here's a couple of jpgs of L and T timing at idle. The first is interesting only because I turned the a/c on at idle and saw the change from a minus 5 L and minus 20 T to what is shown on the Palm. Only having the a/c on did this. Turning the headlights on and stepping on the brakes had no effect. So is the a/c is on the timing advances at idle anyway.

The other jpg is just a car at idle and what I tried to do was just keep upping the rpms til the timing changed. This picture is a close as I could come. As soon as you hit 1100 something the darn thing advances right then and now to 1500 rpm, and heck, I forgot to capture the timing. It's SIMILAR to what you see in the first jpg with the a/c on, but NOT exactly the same animal.

 

No, the senders being the thermosensor on the throttle body, the tps, and the map/load sensor.

I believe that there is a resistor mod for the throttle body temp sensor that just affects the timing and few other apects, unfortunately I was unable to find these in quick searches or the list of sensors for sure that affect the electronic spark advance system.

 

No such thing on my throttle body. Are you talking about the resistor mod for the intake temp sensor? That mod is kinda scary.

 

Why won't an RTek work for N/A's?

 

It will when the n/a one comes out in a month or so.

 

Let me re-iterate: Why can't a Turbo RTek work for an N/A by just tricking it into thinking the turbo is always giving 0 (atmospheric) boost/vacuum?

 

I suppose because the fuel maps are different and the timing maps are different and the output of the boost/pressure sensor are different at a given pressure (such as at atmospheric pressure).

 

I think you're looking at the wrong place.
The rotary engine actually like a lot of advance timing, and the stock ECU really doesn't have enough of it!

Look elsewhere for your problem - it's not the advancing timing that's causing your problems.


-Ted