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All the little problems....

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Old 05-30-02, 02:59 PM
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Re: All the little problems....

Originally posted by pjhrad
My Rex is begging for attention...

1.- The car runs a little hot...
You need the lower shroud, that effects the cooling right there. I would install that so that air coming in the front bumper opening can only go through the rad before I did anything else.

2.- The wheel shakes at low speeds... I think my right front bearing is going out.
Or the wheels are out of balance

3.- When the car is hot, sometimes at startup the tach doesn't work. It will resume working after I have left the car off and it has cooled down. Why does this happen? Is it ECU related?

4.- My Redline buzzer doesn't work. Is this an ECU problem?
No, and No the ECU doesn't send a signal to the Dash, the trailing coil pack does. Cold solder joints or corroded screws on the back of the cluster.

5.- The TPS 2 light check only works sometimes... Sometimes I only get one green light and it shuts off with some throttle, but then take a long time to turn back on. The TPS has been tested with an ohm-meter, and swapped with another one with no change. Could THIS be an ECU problem?
Sounds more like a bad TPS to me

6.- When cold, it feels like one of my secondaries isn't firing. It goes away when it warms up. ECU? Ground?
Fuel secondaries or trailing coil pack??? Sure its not just the 3800 hesitation when cold?

7.- My horn doesn't work. ECU?
No, it is the CPU or switch or steering wheel contacts are dirty (usually in that order).

8.- When I pop my hatch, it stays closed but unlatched... New struts? What's that electrical looking device on the passenger side strut for?
Yes and its a light if you have series 4 car, or rear defrost contacts.

9.- The little switch at the clutch pedal lost it's rubber pad so it clicks every time I push the pedal in... I tried glueing the rubber pad back on but it won't stayl... Can I remove the switch? Isn't it just for the "shift-up" light?
It has nothing to do with the shift up light.

Its a $1.25 part to fix and get a new rubber pad. The ECU uses the clutch switch for RPM issues, the Cruise control uses it as a shut down, and the starter interlock uses it to prevent starting in gear (except on 86 models)

10.- Car hardly ever lets me downshift into second-- I have to RPM match and force the gear in for it to let me. I can't find MT-90 locally either.
Syncros are worn, rebuild or replace the tranny. You can get Redline here: http://www.racesearch.com/CGI/racese...iption_id=1912

Last edited by Icemark; 05-30-02 at 03:04 PM.
Old 05-30-02, 04:48 PM
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2.- The wheel shakes at low speeds... I think my right front bearing is going out.
May also be a ball joint failing (unlikely.) Does the wheel clunk going over bumps?
Old 05-31-02, 05:05 AM
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7.- My horn doesn't work. ECU?
ECU is the fuel computer in the passenger footwell. What you want to check is the CPU. Take it in to an electronics shop and have them check it for cold and broken solder points.

8.- When I pop my hatch, it stays closed but unlatched... New struts? What's that electrical looking device on the passenger side strut for?
Mine stays down, too. Gotta wedge a finger or two in under the lid on the passenger side and pull it up. Suppose it could be the pistons. Or maybe it's just meant to do that. And the thingy? Well, my '86 has a 'courtesy light' on the passenger side strut...

6.- When cold, it feels like one of my secondaries isn't firing. It goes away when it warms up. ECU? Ground?
I don't know what could be causing this, but are you saying that you drive your 7 b4 it's warmed up??? BAD!

10.- Car hardly ever lets me downshift into second-- I have to RPM match and force the gear in for it to let me. I can't find MT-90 locally either.
My car was starting to grind going into 2nd. Put in some Redline and she's been 5x5 ever since. Hunt around for it. There's only one shop in my town that carries it and it's a tiny, out-of-the-way performance shop. Someone in Tuscon *has* to have it. Grab the yellow pages and start calling shops.

1.- The car runs a little hot...
It has two electrical cooling fans (10 inch pusher, 16 inch puller) and water wetter. This AZ heat is getting on my nerves. I think I need a new radiator. Is Fluidyne the best direct swap? It's also missing the bottom shroud (rock guard?).
What's your coolant mixture at? You'll want a higher percentage of water, like say 70%. And also what weight oil are you using? I've heard that a heavier oil will help to carry heat away from the engine.
Old 05-31-02, 11:11 AM
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Originally posted by Amur_
What's your coolant mixture at? You'll want a higher percentage of water, like say 70%.
NO NO NO NO!!!!

You should be using 50/50 for the mix or adding some major corrosion inhibitors.

The rotary engine being basicly aluminum will rot out very easy if the mixture does not have enough anti corrosion inhibitors in it. Most anti-freezes at 30/70 (30% anti-freeze/70% water) will allow the corrosion to start. I have seen a lot of water pumps and other parts fail early simply because the person was using a crappy anti-freeze or improper mix.

Furthermore even if you are street racing if the mixture is 50/50 you will have plenty of protection against overheating, if your coolent system is in good working order. Generally only if you or the previous owner have mucked it up by "weight reduction" or any of the other micky mouse removing panels ideas or missing/broken thermostats , will you have problems when using a good anti freeze with a 50/50 mix.
Old 05-31-02, 11:16 AM
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Originally posted by pjhrad
What RPM issues? I drive an '86, so the started switch doesn't apply, and I don't have cruise control.
The ECU uses it for a neutral position, I know it affects the cold start cycle, but I am not sure how else.

Probably for the lean burn on lift throttle, since the SA and to some degree the FB had problems with that, but I am guessing.
Old 05-31-02, 02:04 PM
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NO NO NO NO!!!!
Okay, so I got that one wrong, but please don't equate it with shitting on the rug, K?

I'll be leaving my mix as it is, then (50/50.) I was going to run it with more water for the summer, but I've kinda been talked out of it...

1.- The car runs a little hot...
It has two electrical cooling fans (10 inch pusher, 16 inch puller) and water wetter. This AZ heat is getting on my nerves. I think I need a new radiator. Is Fluidyne the best direct swap? It's also missing the bottom shroud (rock guard?).
Almost missed this one. Yeah, the Fluidyne aluminum rad is very popular. Whatever you choose, stay away from brass rads - they're garbage.

Last edited by Amur_; 05-31-02 at 02:08 PM.
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