Damn my 7... the last couple months i have screwed with my 88 gxl N/A.
The problems.... Start up ok warm up .. lean as hell puttin spittin dropin off the map lean, sucks for me cause i have narrowband A/F meter . thought it could be injectors so i replaced them prim. and sec. nothing changed. Next leaking Intake?? removed throttle, uim, the ext., but not the lim. used new gaskets sealed up everything and payed close att. to vac lines the whole nine yards.
what am i missing . here is what all i have replaced so far: maf, Intake temp. sensor, pri. sec. injectors, new injectors clips. bac harness, new fuel filter . have new o2 sensor coolant temp. sensor not yet installed .
MODs done Street ported N/A ,walbro pump, jacobs energy pack , saf, stage 1 clutch, lightweight flywheel , coilovers.........
What could cause very lean cond. at idel ?
anything under load it leans out bad cant drive or im too scared to try hold at 2.5k rpms it will bounce FROM Lean to Rich and all seems ok minus the spit putt putt gettin there 2.5 to redline Rich.... idel Lean Lean Lean thin die can start back up idels rich thin leans out. HELP HELP HELP im ready to blow this F###er up

 

Bad AFM?

Bad setting on SAF(C)?

 

first @2500rpm it is SUPPOSED to bounce back and forth. it should be in closed loop.

second the idle, if you still have the air pump and working air control valve, idle read lean on the o2 sensor because of the extra air pump air in the exhaust. if you don't have the air pump, then it should be pegged rich

 

We had a similar situation when we swapped the JDM T2 into the vert. We did a Pineapple street port and added 720/1000 injectors with an RTEK Stage 1 ECU which is configured for 720/720 injectors. Had to run rich, right?

We had surging while accelerating from 3-4k and the car would often die at idle like stop lights and signs. Hmmm...

Lesson? You cannot make these kinds of mods without a Wide Band. We used a Zeitronix w/b to find that in fact we were running lean while accelerating. Once we used the SAFC to fatten it up in the areas the Zeitronix showed us needed it, it smoothed right out. But the key take-away was that if we'd pushed it while running lean like that, we could have easily detonated and blew it up. And rotaries don't tolerate detonation.

Fattening up the idle eliminated the stalling problem.

You can probably find a tuning shop or place with a dyno that'll have an external wideband they can hook up. But know that the risk and costs of trying to wing it are devastating to your wallet.

Good luck.

 

Those Narrow Band gauges are just a "light show gauge".(for bling purposes only)
I'd be getting a REAL Wide band Gauge,and it will give you an Accurate reading of your AFR's.

 

OFFTOPIC: every time I see your thread title the Whitesnake song pops into my head.

On topic: How do you even know you're running lean? Misterstyx69 is right. Get a wideband to get your real A/F ratios.

 

water thermo sensor on the back of the water pump.

 

let me start by saying F@#K !!!!! this is why i and every1 else should buy NEW parts not REman. for the past 5 months i have been chasing a ghost that turned out to be a snake ****!!!!....... MAF ya put old 1 on that i thought was bad (because i like to mess with stuff) and not running pretty good now perfect but driveable. total amount spent about a grand $$$ thanks for the input guys ...

NEXTQUESTION where can i find this part

 

running good not perfect if any1 sees that i type the wrong ****

 

i see that you are N/A motor. you dont need that part in the pic. do an emissions removal. it will bypass all that garbage around your engine.....

 

when i broke those wires its been hard to start ... not sure if that had anything to do with but still i think its needed. just me. emissions have been removed AIM Tuning is whom built the car im sure they left it on there for some reason or Again i could be wrong