rico05

Check the signature for current mods and relevent info. I am getting some body work and a new paint job next, and then what should I do?? My goals are a low 14 second n/a, then do a TII swap. So should I focus on suspension next, and start saving for the TII, or keep modding the N/A? If modd the n/a is your answer....What next??

scathcart

Save for the TII.

Roy James

port your intake manifold, hhmm.. maybe those pineapple racing sleeves or similar. I would save up for that swap, if your car is nice and clean, i would rather put TII stuff in it, than start all over with a TII, i hate buying new cars, i like modding the ones i have. If your engine is nice and good, bust out a slick wet kit on it, Scathcart is experienced in Nitrous systems on RX7s, see if he'll help you design one or help you find one.

telus.net

how fast do you run now?

RETed

CDI box...
lightened flywheel...


-Ted

scathcart

Definitely. I can set you up a great system, with all the part numbers, and a price. You can even have some of my unused parts... lemme know what you want!
2 stage, three stage, wet, dry, everything you'd need to know.
Anything for my brother. (kiss)
LOL

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

HALLTECH!!!!!

scathcart

Although nice... a bit ahead of his budget IIRC and his engine requirements. An S-AFC would be a better idea.

Roy James

yeah, light flywheel, S-AFC, maybe a slick two stage Nitrous system, you have LSD rear end? goody goody, never an end to modding a Rex, turbo or not.

Silkworm

Get the tranny bolted to the block!



PaulC

rico05

Hey Bro, I am seriously thinkin bout a 75 wet shot. Gimmie some pointers. I think I will beef up the body and suspension, then go for a full TII swap.

Shut up Paul... Tomorrow.....

Silkworm

HAHAHAHAHAHA

Ok, my opinion.

Screw the turbo. Screw Naaawwwws.

Koni shocks, some beefy springs, new swaybars, and go open-tracking.

Seriously.

Screw these straightline boys with no *****. Put it out on the track and go have some FUN!

If you want info on stuff in your area, PM me, I'll get you in touch with my F-body OT foolios.

PaulC

rico05

I am more for handling as well. I really want a 200 horse Rex that has a BAD *** suspension, but can still go in a straight line decently fast. N20 would just be as a silly toy mod to play with. What is a good suspension to shoot for? I was thinking K2RD suspension kit "A": http://www.k2rd.com/Online_Catalog/F...sion-index.htm
And then a new set of urathane bushings, and RB front and rear adjustible sway bars. Sound good??

Roy James

want handling? AND straight line? do all that **** Paul said ANNNDDD run the nnnaawwwsss. BTW, when you run that 75wet, i wanna see the set up, i have some people around here pissing all over my timeslip, and i cant afford a turbo for ****. Thanks.

scathcart

JIC or TEIN is a higher quality system for about the same price if you're looking for adjustable coil-overs.
I will run JIC's if I end up modding my TII.
Good idea on handling and straight line. I'm shooting for the same.
As for the RB adjustable sway bars... I didn;t think they made them for the front on S5 cars. The sway bars RB offers are bolt on replacements, and the end links they offer are where the adjustability comes in. The RB end links won't fit on an S5 front.
If you want a REALLY solid feel, get the RB sway bars and the Mazdatrix solid ball-joint end links for the front and rear. Adjustable just like the rb units, but fit the front and the rear, and have absolutely NO play.

For your Nitrous Oxide system, I really need more info. It is a smaller shot, so I imagine a single stage would be what you are looking for. 75 hp is a smaller shot, so direct port would be overkill; it really is just as simple as the NOS RX-7 Turbo wet kit. Add their bottle heater, a fuel pump, a purge valve, and a fuel pressure gauge, and you're set. Tell me exactly what you want.

OH, and here's a good idea: According to rxseven, the stock airbox provides great airflow and isn't a restriction at all, and since it provides cold air, is much better than a cone intake!
Rico, make sure to put your stock airbox back on! What were we thinking in taking out an intake restriction??

scathcart

$600 for direct port nitrous oxide plus a fuel pump ($100) and you can have up to 250 or more horsepower. That will kill at the dragslip.
If you don't know too much about N2O systems, just ask, and I'll tell you verything you need to know to install a safe system.
You could run an extra 125 hp on your motor with stock ports and direct port without worry (if it is set-up properly). That should be good for some 13's at least.

Roy James

LMAO, i just got done reading that whole thread/argument about the air box, haha. Hey Scathcart, i was wondering, i kinda wanna hide my "Baby Bottle" for some reason or another, and i was wondering, if when running a wet kit, could you run a T-connection from the fuel line at anypoint (prefferably a hidden one) instead of tapping into the fuel rail as suggested? i didnt really see a reason as to why not, other than maybe if there was pressure regulation needed. Thanks

scathcart

Yes you *could* use a t fitting. My main worry is fuel delivery to the NOS fuel solenoid. Fuel does not flow too well with T fittings. Y fittings flow much better and are offered by NOS brand... but unfortunately require AN lines running up to the fuel rails.
One option to get rid of this problem would be to use aeromotive's y block. It has female y fittings, so you could plumb in barbs into the input and one output, keep the normal rubber hoses, and then the -AN fitting for the NOS fuel supply line. Problem is, the thing is HUGE. Input is 10-AN, and outputs are 8-AN. The NOS line is 4-AN. Perhaps you could jb weld some stuff, but all in all, its a bitch.

here is what I would do: spend $20 on some hose and fittings, and run a 90 degree bend, with the nos y fitting, into a120 degree bend between your fuel rails (primary to secondary). This will be the most optimum setup retaining mostly stock fuel supply lines and stock FPR.

Sorry that was confusing.... I can clarify if you need.

scathcart

Wow, that was a crappy post by me.

You need to tap into fuel before the FPR. Best place to do this is the line between the primary and secondary rails.

Yes you could use a t fitting, but they don't flow well and you might run lean with larger size shots.

A y fitting is your best bet. If you are willing to spend the extra $20, I'll tell you the exact part numbers and how to go about it.

Roy James

Y fitting!, damn i didnt even think about that, well, i was kinda on the right track, cool cool, thanks man. I dont have much right now, but ill probably PM you soon about this. Just plans right now, oh BTW, what basic kit were you looking at? i got on the "NOS" web site and saw a "40-60HP Shot", i think it was dry, their site wasnt very helpful. Thanks again.

edit: I just looked on the "nosnitrious.com" site and saw they had two kits for Rx7's. just simply the Rx7 non turbo and FI kit (system#05123) and then a kit for RX7 Turbo-All (system#05132). My guess is that the Turbo kit is wet, and the non turbo/EFI kit is dry?

scathcart

yeah, you don't want that kit. The Turbo RX7 kit is wet, and adjustable for the same hp settings. Don't be fooled though, it can go much higher, it is just the max hp available with the provided jets.

Kit number 05132.

Install done to an 86 NA with this kit at: www.FC3s.org

I run a similar setup to the import fogger set-up (04430) for my second stage.

Fittings can be found here:
http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin...S/custom2.html

under "fittings".
The brass hose T fitting (15534) might be exactly what you are looking for, seeing as you want ot hide the kit, but I'd be carful going over 125hp with that. Make sure you have a great pump.

If you want some ideas for a large hidden setup, it is possible to hide.

Really, I need to know more of your plans. How big a shot, what kind of car, and bottle size.

scathcart

YES. Exactly. check out the fc3s.org install.

What HP level are you wanting to run? And judge on the heavy side. A t fittign with a good enough pump might be ok.... it depends on where it is place, fuel pump, and shot size.

Need more Info! Why you want to hide it, etc...

Roy James

oh man, LoL, 125?! jesus, in my dreams, i just wanted a quite small 75 kit in my step. I have an 86 base will full exhaust and the basic mods such as TB mod, ported TB, elec fan, cone filter with cold air extension. Bottle size? to be honest, i have never really delt with Nitrous in person, so i couldnt even begin to size it up. What do you think would be the safest to run on a N/A? just curious. I am planning on upgrading to a stock TII pump and run my stock injectors. Hows all that sound so far? Thanks alot man, i o u

Roy James

.. well.. on the other hand, if you think i can run a 125.....
"if a lil is good.. more is better, right?"

scathcart

Bottle size has nothing to do with horsepower, simply how much nitrous you can store, such as 10lb, 15 lb, or 20 lb. The 10 lb bottle comes with the kit, but the kit can beordered with a 15 or 20 lb bottle.

A 10 lb bottle at 50 horsepower jet setting will last 3 minutes. A 15 lb bottle will last 4.5 minutes. 20 lb, 6 minutes.
10 lb bottle at 100 horsepower will last 1.5 minutes.

So, a 10 lb bottle at a 75 horsepower jetting will last a total sum around 2.5 minutes. a 15 lb bottle, around 3.9 minutes.

For you, since you are wanting to hide it, mounting area becomes an issue. A 15 lb bottle is 50% longer than a 10 lb bottle. They used 20 lb bottles in FnF in the Eclipse, and in the FC3s.org write-up, they use 10 lb bottles (for reference). If you mount the bottle in the rear, (under those twin boxes, where the seats normally go), you should be able to fit any size. Problem then is opening the bottle valve. NOS makes an electric remote bottle valve for around $180. I recently bought it, and love it.

Lots to think about...

and you could go ahead and run up to 125 hp with a good fuel pump. I don;t think a TII fuel pump provides enough flow for anymore than a 50 shot.

Time for a Walboro.