After emissions delete, no idle. Rx7 fc turbo 2 s4
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
After emissions delete, no idle. Rx7 fc turbo 2 s4
Alright so I just took out all of the emissions crap including the rats nest on my 87 turbo ii. Before I did this I turned the variable idle resistor a little to hard and the screw now just spins freely. My engine wants to start so badly but after cranking and de flooding and cranking some more it will only idle for about 15-20 seconds. I need suggestions and help on this one. Not sure if I still need to use some of the solenoids from the emissions delete. Or If I have a major vacuum leak or if It's the VR that I broke. If it is the VR I cannot find one anywhere to buy. I also attempted to set the tps correctly at 1oms at closed throttle. Thx for the help
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
If you're talking to me it's already been stated that people will discard the BAC thinking that it is an emissions solenoid when it is not. Also, people will also remove the FPR as well, which is probably not an advisable thing to do.
Last edited by satch; 06-28-14 at 04:38 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
Okay here's what I have removed:
Both cats- 3" straightpipe
Bac
Split air pipe
Acv
Air pump
Egr valve
Air relief silencer
Pcv system
Fuel pressure regulator- but I connected the end of the primary fuel rail to a vaccum nipple above the injectors
Did the throttle body mod
Thermowax removed
All cold start assists
That's all I can think of right now
Btw please keep this helpful, rather than fighting and such. Thx
Both cats- 3" straightpipe
Bac
Split air pipe
Acv
Air pump
Egr valve
Air relief silencer
Pcv system
Fuel pressure regulator- but I connected the end of the primary fuel rail to a vaccum nipple above the injectors
Did the throttle body mod
Thermowax removed
All cold start assists
That's all I can think of right now
Btw please keep this helpful, rather than fighting and such. Thx
#9
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
When it idles, at what speed does it idle?
You need the BAC. It is supposed to prevent the idle from dropping below 750 rpm, especially when load is placed on the engine when idling. It also aids the car in starting as it helps to add more air to the engine under this situation.
The FPR is necessary. It adjusts the fuel pressure during hot starts, plus of course it would help to regulate the pressure in other scenarios.
You need the BAC. It is supposed to prevent the idle from dropping below 750 rpm, especially when load is placed on the engine when idling. It also aids the car in starting as it helps to add more air to the engine under this situation.
The FPR is necessary. It adjusts the fuel pressure during hot starts, plus of course it would help to regulate the pressure in other scenarios.
#10
Red Pill Dealer
iTrader: (10)
A monster port should fix it all.
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
It idles around maybe like 200rpm. Then it dies... Alright I'll put the bac back on. Do I need to put the coolant lines back through it? I've heard that it's not necessary. And how would I go about putting the fpr back together?
#15
Theoretical Tinkerer
iTrader: (41)
Okay here's what I have removed:
Both cats- 3" straightpipe
Bac
Split air pipe
Acv
Air pump
Egr valve
Air relief silencer
Pcv system
Fuel pressure regulator- but I connected the end of the primary fuel rail to a vaccum nipple above the injectors
Did the throttle body mod
Thermowax removed
All cold start assists
That's all I can think of right now
Btw please keep this helpful, rather than fighting and such. Thx
Both cats- 3" straightpipe
Bac
Split air pipe
Acv
Air pump
Egr valve
Air relief silencer
Pcv system
Fuel pressure regulator- but I connected the end of the primary fuel rail to a vaccum nipple above the injectors
Did the throttle body mod
Thermowax removed
All cold start assists
That's all I can think of right now
Btw please keep this helpful, rather than fighting and such. Thx
At the very least, put the BAC back on and use its bypass screw to allow enough air to idle.
Alternatively, you can tighten up the throttle cable. You'll probably be stuck with a high idle.
#16
Full Member
Thread Starter
New injectors
New clips
Bac reinstalled
Tps set to 1k ohms via throttle cable
It will idle 2 out of 10 times with me doing some amount of gas fluctuations to 2k rpm then decided to die again... Seriously I'm at a loss and I've been at this for days
New clips
Bac reinstalled
Tps set to 1k ohms via throttle cable
It will idle 2 out of 10 times with me doing some amount of gas fluctuations to 2k rpm then decided to die again... Seriously I'm at a loss and I've been at this for days
#17
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
How did the engine run before the emission removal? And you can adjust the idle via the BAC. And you can measure the voltage of the variable resistor by probing the Green/Black wire and it should read between 1 to 4 volts when adjusted (and it should only be adjusted w/the engine fully warmed up and the initial coupler jumpered..
Last edited by satch; 07-01-14 at 01:30 AM.
#18
Full Member
Thread Starter
At one point it was running good. Then it started acting up. Aftermarket blowoff valve
Pod filter
Exhaust
Some tuning and it was all running fine
But then my battery died after it sitting for a week and it hasn't been the same ever since
My car would run but I had to keep my foot on the throttle and brake at the same time while driving to attempt to keep my car alive.
Tried the usual things
Bac adjusting
Variable resistor adjusting
And it just wouldn't hold an idle
It has 118k miles on it
About 75lb compression all around
I know she's an old girl but I don't feel like she gave out.
Pod filter
Exhaust
Some tuning and it was all running fine
But then my battery died after it sitting for a week and it hasn't been the same ever since
My car would run but I had to keep my foot on the throttle and brake at the same time while driving to attempt to keep my car alive.
Tried the usual things
Bac adjusting
Variable resistor adjusting
And it just wouldn't hold an idle
It has 118k miles on it
About 75lb compression all around
I know she's an old girl but I don't feel like she gave out.
#23
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,832
Received 2,603 Likes
on
1,847 Posts
this is incorrect. the throttle cable should be a little loose (spec is like 2-3mm freeplay), the tps has an adjusting screw and it should be adjusted with the engine HOT.
this is gong to cause trouble, the ECU will be confused when it blows off, you should remove, and put the stock one back.
this is gong to cause trouble, the ECU will be confused when it blows off, you should remove, and put the stock one back.
#24
Full Member
Thread Starter
The bac vacuum line is currently being blocked off because I don't know where it goes.
Also today I got my car to run for about a minute and a half. After messing with a few things and reinstalling the twin scroll turbo actuator and solenoid. It got to around 2500rpm and I had to hold it there with my foot on the gas. It shook crazy hard and tons of white smoke was coming out. It also sounded really weird but also ATF fluid was coming out because of the de flooding procedure I had done a couple of days ago.
At this point I don't know where to go. I readjusted the tps via it's adjusting screw. While giving the throttle cable a bit of slack. More than it had previously anyway. The tps ohms always change though and it's not very consistent. I'm thinking it's a combination between the variable resistor that's not even installed (I checked the voltage on it and it was dead) and my tps might need to be replaced
Also today I got my car to run for about a minute and a half. After messing with a few things and reinstalling the twin scroll turbo actuator and solenoid. It got to around 2500rpm and I had to hold it there with my foot on the gas. It shook crazy hard and tons of white smoke was coming out. It also sounded really weird but also ATF fluid was coming out because of the de flooding procedure I had done a couple of days ago.
At this point I don't know where to go. I readjusted the tps via it's adjusting screw. While giving the throttle cable a bit of slack. More than it had previously anyway. The tps ohms always change though and it's not very consistent. I'm thinking it's a combination between the variable resistor that's not even installed (I checked the voltage on it and it was dead) and my tps might need to be replaced