nbjeff

Alright so I just took out all of the emissions crap including the rats nest on my 87 turbo ii. Before I did this I turned the variable idle resistor a little to hard and the screw now just spins freely. My engine wants to start so badly but after cranking and de flooding and cranking some more it will only idle for about 15-20 seconds. I need suggestions and help on this one. Not sure if I still need to use some of the solenoids from the emissions delete. Or If I have a major vacuum leak or if It's the VR that I broke. If it is the VR I cannot find one anywhere to buy. I also attempted to set the tps correctly at 1oms at closed throttle. Thx for the help

satch

iTrader: (1)

By name, which solenoids did you remove?

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

You got the exact result you should have gotten by removing everything. When you pull that stuff out, you do more than just get rid of emissions cleaning items. Cars are never as smooth after removing it all. They can be adjusted to be ok though.

nbjeff

I just removed everything associated with the rats nest

satch

iTrader: (1)

Not good enough. What are their names????????????????? Did you remove the BAC? You see the BAC is not an emissions solenoid, so this is why the question was asked. Whatever you removed has a name so please provide us w/that info.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

What, "emissions crap" isn't specific enough for you guys?

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you're talking to me it's already been stated that people will discard the BAC thinking that it is an emissions solenoid when it is not. Also, people will also remove the FPR as well, which is probably not an advisable thing to do.

nbjeff

Okay here's what I have removed:
Both cats- 3" straightpipe
Bac
Split air pipe
Acv
Air pump
Egr valve
Air relief silencer
Pcv system
Fuel pressure regulator- but I connected the end of the primary fuel rail to a vaccum nipple above the injectors
Did the throttle body mod
Thermowax removed
All cold start assists

That's all I can think of right now

Btw please keep this helpful, rather than fighting and such. Thx

satch

iTrader: (1)

When it idles, at what speed does it idle?

You need the BAC. It is supposed to prevent the idle from dropping below 750 rpm, especially when load is placed on the engine when idling. It also aids the car in starting as it helps to add more air to the engine under this situation.

The FPR is necessary. It adjusts the fuel pressure during hot starts, plus of course it would help to regulate the pressure in other scenarios.

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

A monster port should fix it all.

nbjeff

It idles around maybe like 200rpm. Then it dies... Alright I'll put the bac back on. Do I need to put the coolant lines back through it? I've heard that it's not necessary. And how would I go about putting the fpr back together?

nbjeff

Is the fpr attached to the fuel rail? If so I didn't remove it. I just re-routed the vaccum line for it

nbjeff

I just checked out my primary fuel line pulsation damper and it needs replacing. And I need to make sure I'm running my fuel lines right

satch

iTrader: (1)

And the Pressure Regulator Control Valve (PRCV) is the item in which controls the fuel pressure during hot starts and alters the pressure under different scenarios.

And you don't need the coolant lines to the BAC.

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

You removed the things that assist in starting and running a cold engine.
At the very least, put the BAC back on and use its bypass screw to allow enough air to idle.
Alternatively, you can tighten up the throttle cable. You'll probably be stuck with a high idle.

nbjeff

New injectors
New clips
Bac reinstalled
Tps set to 1k ohms via throttle cable
It will idle 2 out of 10 times with me doing some amount of gas fluctuations to 2k rpm then decided to die again... Seriously I'm at a loss and I've been at this for days

satch

iTrader: (1)

How did the engine run before the emission removal? And you can adjust the idle via the BAC. And you can measure the voltage of the variable resistor by probing the Green/Black wire and it should read between 1 to 4 volts when adjusted (and it should only be adjusted w/the engine fully warmed up and the initial coupler jumpered..

nbjeff

At one point it was running good. Then it started acting up. Aftermarket blowoff valve
Pod filter
Exhaust
Some tuning and it was all running fine
But then my battery died after it sitting for a week and it hasn't been the same ever since

My car would run but I had to keep my foot on the throttle and brake at the same time while driving to attempt to keep my car alive.

Tried the usual things
Bac adjusting
Variable resistor adjusting

And it just wouldn't hold an idle

It has 118k miles on it
About 75lb compression all around

I know she's an old girl but I don't feel like she gave out.

nbjeff

So there's lots of gas smelling oil dripping from my exhaust. Just an update

barkz

iTrader: (1)

You've got a draw/charging system issue. A battery should not die in a week.

nbjeff

That's true but that wouldn't explain why it won't start

barkz

iTrader: (1)

If the power isn't going where it needs to it sure would

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

this is incorrect. the throttle cable should be a little loose (spec is like 2-3mm freeplay), the tps has an adjusting screw and it should be adjusted with the engine HOT.

this is gong to cause trouble, the ECU will be confused when it blows off, you should remove, and put the stock one back.

nbjeff

The bac vacuum line is currently being blocked off because I don't know where it goes.
Also today I got my car to run for about a minute and a half. After messing with a few things and reinstalling the twin scroll turbo actuator and solenoid. It got to around 2500rpm and I had to hold it there with my foot on the gas. It shook crazy hard and tons of white smoke was coming out. It also sounded really weird but also ATF fluid was coming out because of the de flooding procedure I had done a couple of days ago.

At this point I don't know where to go. I readjusted the tps via it's adjusting screw. While giving the throttle cable a bit of slack. More than it had previously anyway. The tps ohms always change though and it's not very consistent. I'm thinking it's a combination between the variable resistor that's not even installed (I checked the voltage on it and it was dead) and my tps might need to be replaced

satch

iTrader: (1)

You stated you reinstalled the BAC. It also doesn't have a vacuum hose as the hose is an air supply hose coming from the air intake tube that runs from the air box to the throttle body.