nbjeff

So just as a general idea. What should I do every time I start my car? Because sometimes I will crank it and it will start for a second. Maybe two and then it will go back to cranking. Should I try to catch it with the gas? Or just keep turning the key?

nbjeff

Is the purge control valve important?

nbjeff

So today I reinstalled the fpr solenoid and cleaned my spark plugs and got new 8.8 mm racing spark plug wires. Checked my ignition coils. Leading- .5ohms
Trailing- .7ohms

Tps... Ohms.. Closed around 1k ohms.
Wot-... It goes from 1k to around 2k and then it starts going back down to about .75k ohms....

So I'm pretty sure I need a new tps

Also reconnected my primary injector air bleed nipple back up to the UIM

And maybe cleaned some things up. But my car still won't start and has a very very hard time catching to sound like it wants to start...

nbjeff

Okay so I borrowed a tps from a friend. And his was working perfectly. I tested it out of the car and all the ohms were correct. Took mine out and put his in and now their roles have switched... His is doing what mine was doing and now mine is working fine. What the heck is going on? Is this some type of wiring issue??

satch

iTrader: (1)

There is no wiring involved when checking for ohms because when checking for ohms the TPS is unplugged. Correct?

nbjeff

When I check the tps it doesn't matter if it's plugged in or unplugged. It still goes back down in ohms

satch

iTrader: (1)

Was the car fully warmed up before you unplugged the sensor?

barkz

iTrader: (1)

That doesn't make any sense. You said you tested it outside of the car. And then tested it unplugged in your car, should have gotten the same readings... I'm guessing you didn't test it unplugged and just don't want to admit it.

satch

iTrader: (1)

And when testing for ohms, the meter prongs have to make solid contact w/the pins in the plug or you won't get an accurate reading.

nbjeff

Okay so whatever I did yesterday. What you guys are saying is correct. I had it plugged in. I'm not making excuses but I'm blond haha. Anyway yeah so I was testing it with it plugged in still. and I can't warm up my engine because it's obviously not running. So sorry for all the confusing posts

satch

iTrader: (1)

A TPS is not required to start the car. Just unplug the AFM and jumper the fuel check connector. If you do not know the location of this then use the advanced search function and find the info. If by chance the car starts then do not run it too long because w/o the AFM the engine will run very rich and likely cause the exhaust components to glow. And what happened w/the starter fluid? If you refuse to take advice given then don't ask for it.

nbjeff

I'm not refusing to take your advice? But the starter fluid did not start my engine or give it any hope of wanting to run. So after I jumper it and unplug the air flow meter. Then try to start my car?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Why didn't you state in the past that you actually tried to start the car by using the fluid? Anyway, if the car did not start at least for a brief period of time when using starter fluid then that points to an ignition problem as it relates to spark so test for spark. If you had spark and at least decent compression the car should have fired up. And again, when using the fluid you need to make sure the fuel pump is disabled.

nbjeff

So I have stated that I tried the starting fluid before and that it did not work. But just
An update I put everything back together and cleaned the plugs. Started car for 25 seconds or
So and then checked the plugs. They were fouled with both mmo and gas. Then I cleaned the plugs and tried again. Started for about 2 minutes and the whole time I had to floor the gas to the floor and the revved to about 3krpm and then it slowly died down to dieing. Checked the plugs. They had a slight amount of oil on them. Cleaned them. And I'm still trying to get this running. Btw the way we got it started in the first place. Was by my grandpa putting a little bit of gas into the 'vacuum' line right above the bac valve. I say 'vacuum' because my grandpa said that sometime it will be vacuum and sometimes there
Will be pressure. Not sure what
To think about that.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Could be fuel issue as in your primary injectors. Could be they are clogged or poorly connected. You could remove the wires from the ECU pins for the primary injectors and do the same thing for the secondary injectors and then place the secondary injector wires into the pin position for the primary injectors so instead of the car trying to run off the primary injectors the car would run off the secondary injectors in place of the primaries.

And double/triple check that you have the plug wires from the coils running to the correct plug positions.

nbjeff

Is there any diagram that shows where the wires for each injector go? I feel like I got them in the same position but maybe I didn't. That would explain some things

satch

iTrader: (1)

What do you mean by same position?

Front primary is pin 3E Light Green wire
front secondary is pin 3H Light Green/White wire
rear primary is pin 3C Light Green/Black wire
rear secondary is pin 3F Light Green/Red wire

nbjeff

Like the front/rear position.

But I will check their spot tomorrow when I go back over to the car. And by front you mean front rotor right?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Yes.

But you may be confusing the injectors and the plugs. You are also being asked to make sure the lead coils are going to both of the lower plug positions (one at the front rotor and one at the rear rotor) as well as the trailing coil plugs which are connected to the top spark plugs. T1 goes to the top front rotor and T2 goes to the top rear rotor plug.

nbjeff

It runs like a freaking champ!!!!

satch

iTrader: (1)

So, what did you fix?

nbjeff

The injectors were I'm the wrong position. I think one primary was on a secondary and visa/versa

Thanks so much to everyone who helped me