I got this installed in my car and the gauge reads from 11 to 18. When is in 11 to about 13.5 is green, from 13.5 to 15.5 is orange and from 15.5 to 18+ is red. I not sure how to read this. If it is reading 10.0 is too rich right? but it is still green? can someone in here enlighten me please... thanks...

i got it installed in my 7 http://tunertools.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AEM-30-4100

 

If you used the search tools on the forum or google and used keywords like "air fuel ratio" you'd find something like this

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio

 

The color of the light doesn't really mean much... on an A/F guage it's just there to give a dial along with the digital readout. The digital readout is what actually tells you important information.

The higher the number the leaner the mix, the lower the number the richer the mix. When cruising on the highway it should read around 14.7, when decelerating it will read higher, when accelerating it will read lower.

Unless you have a standalone there isn't much you'll be able to do about what it reads. It is what it is. If you do have a standalone then you'll be able to adjust your fuel map's to where you want them.

 

I have an Haltech E8, street ported full racing beat exhaust on my car, walbro fuel pump 1500 secondaries. The digital display on mine goes to 10.0 when i give it gas, and that's too rich then. Yeah when i decelarate the reading is higher. I have already talked to my mech because it needs to be retuned. It is a rebuilt enegine and has about 300 miles in it. Being too rich is not going to break anything or is it?

 

Wikipedia is not a reliable source... i used the search tools but it didn't give me what i was looking for.... thanks...

 

Here's what I found after searching for "AFR tuning"

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=afr+tuning

That chart gives you a decent idea of what you're shooting for.

And yes, being to rich can hurt things. Its just less likely.

I'd suggest if you have no experience tuning, that you leave it in qualified hands though. Simple mistakes at this stage can put you back to the drawing board instantaneously.

 

thanks... how did you find it? i was searching in the forums yesterday and didn't get anything... I'll look into it... i'm going to set a date so the car can get retuned... I most definately don't want to go back to the drawing board...

 

Sounds like your Haltech isn't set up correctly for the big secondaries. I assume with thoes injectors your running a turbo?

Since your engine is still bring broken in that's probably why it is set the way it is for now. IMO you just barely at the point that you could start pushing it. I like to see closer to 1000km (600ish miles) on an engine before it gets pushed hard. But when it's broken in, if not sooner, your tuner will definitely need to adjust the fuel map. Don't mess with it yourself unless you are confident that you know what your doing because as stated earlier, one mistake could put you back to the drawing board.

 

yeah dude leave it alone, your tuner will take care of it.

 

+1

 

in my experience, that gauge is a nice little gauge by it's self. But as far as jivnig with other units (ecu) it is a peice of crrap.

I did everything under the sun to get this device to communicate with my MoTeC and it never worked properly. The LC-1 is a much better tool.

https://www.rx7club.com/motec-247/my-%2Aofficial%2A-motec-m2r-thread-617644/page4/

2/3rd the way doown

or

https://www.rx7club.com/aem-ems-81/aem-uego-worthless-lambda-tuning-702675/

 

i'm a leave it alone and take it back so the guy can adjust the fuel map. Is just running the too rich. The other day i was driving and i was doing close to 100 when the car turned off. It started back up of course when i put it back in gear, since then i take it easy and don't push it. I think is running so rich that is turned the sparks out.

Stylemon
From i understand that gauge is supposed to help you tune or see what your mix is. I highly doubt that mine is connected to my ECU... but i'll find out... just to make sure...

 

I am pretty sure the haltech doesnt use the input, but what's the point of having the $300 o2 sensor and $300 gauge if your standalone can't use it?

that's just my take on it.

I am working on getting my ECU to make corrections off an EGT input as well.

 

Good question... I'm get back at you...

 

Didn't you say this was a fresh rebuilt engine? As part of the break in period aren't you supposed to keep the RPMs down in order to let all the seals and springs set properly? Maybe I haven't read close enough, but it sounds like your tuner has it set for mild driving until the engine is properly broken in. If I'm correct in all this then going 100mph isn't a good idea till the engine is broken in.

Generally as part of the warranty on your rebuild, it's required that you break the engine in properly. You might have just voided your warranty and be doing damage to your engine.

 

I'm a take it easy, i'm a take the car back to the shop so he can take a look at it... i don't rev it more than 4 to 5... the 100mph was a one time incident... i need to take it slow but the car is telling me GIVE MORE BITCH... so i respond... i got a long way before i break in the engine... but i'm take it back by next weekend or so...

Stylemon i didn't forget about you... i'll get back at you...

 

Sorry that it took me so long to get back at you, but busy and all my AEM is not running with the haltech is running independently.