stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

This is a question for people who are using the AEM UEGO controller with another brand ECU (not AEM).

Does the lambda reading on you laptop always match what the gauge/controller says?

Has anyone ever tested the output of the AEM gauge with a multimeter?

I had the above problem, and tested the output with a multimeter. The voltage I was seeing on the meter did NOT match the information on the UEGO manual that came with the unit. I tried ALL 5 positions on the gauge and the output never matched the table in the manual.

Just to be very clear, the gauge WAS grounded to the same ground as the ecu, and was also 'T'-ed into the lambda ground in my ECU. The other output was properly installed in the correct pin on my ECU. The lambda table in my ECU matched what the UEGO manual says.

My ECU is a MoTeC M2R. I should be able to input the info from the AEM manual into my ECU, and the ECU should display the same reading as the UEGO.

Just wondering if anyone has had similar issues.
I called AEM and they basically are trying to tell me that my multimeter is wrong, my tuners multimeter is wrong, and my motec ecu is wrong... Very helpful tech support.

2a+RoN

ha yeah AEM has great tech support. They've had my pos ignition box for almost a year now and all I've gotten is "the parts are on order".... I just want my effing money back.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

their tech support are ********. I had a bad UEGO gauge (broken digital part of the display that says the actual AFR), I sent it back to them, and they turned around and sent it back to me. Still broken. Then the tech on the phone tried to tell me that they checked it and that my sensor or harness must be bad. Which is bullshit, because then i swapped in a known good gauge and it all worked.

The thing about the AEM wideband is that it does not use a linear signal. It uses a weird polynomial voltage relationship that most non AEM products don't work with. That's why most people with Power FC's and Rtek's for example ditch them.

Get an Innovate, FJO, etc and sell your AEM. It's still a good gauge if it's working properly and you don't need to use the analog output.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the info... thats pretty helpful. I've heard from multiple sources that their ignition box was released with MANY issues.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

I traded it for a LC-1. Easy install, all is right in the world of Labda now

brent clement

The latency with the aem is also brutal, the aem always seems to be a second behind. Not just on the guage but the logging as well. Anyone else run into the same thing?

I run PLX Devices now and no issues.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

i did notice that the digital numbers seemed to have a lag, but the sweep seemed to be more accurate.

I could never tell how off it was on logging because it was never feeding into the ECU properly.

Tuning has gotten SO easy with the LC-1 and lambda tuning.

MikeV

Yup - LC-1 can't be beat at its price.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

what about the LM1...! thats a pretty slick unit... but more than i need with the motec

arghx

iTrader: (3)

that clumsy box sucks. takes up too much space... it has a display on it but it's kinda useless because you can't possibly look at it while you're driving.

Get the LC-1 with the XD-16 AFR gauge. I mounted my XD-16 on the steering column under the tach so I can always eyeball it while I'm driving. You can also get the cheaper display gauge (forgot the name) but that one doesn't let you control calibration without some extra wiring.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

i have the LC-1 with a digital volt meter. it came form innovate, but it seems like a less expensive display. It works, although i cant figure out how to get the decimal point to move over a space... for example, i says that my lambda reading is 9.8 instead of .98.

it works though.

I meant, for a tuning tool, the LM-1 is pretty great.

clint999

I traded it for a LC-1. Easy install, all is right in the world of Labda now