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I live in Hot AZ and my AC works great in my S4 while driving, but when I'm idle, it quickly stops blowing out that cool air. I've read a little bit about some FCs coming with a small condenser pusher fan? or some people put one on? I've done some searching and can't find any information on this. Was there ever an official one that was made for the S4s after all? Is there a part number I can find? I suppose worse case I can probably find a generic one, but wouldn't know how to wire it properly. I assume I could probably wire it to the AC Compressor since that only fires on when the AC is turned on, but I'd love to get some actual information on this if possible.
From what I see, the "pusher" fan is the same for '86-'91, so check to make certain it's running when compressor on.
Not sure if I explained what I was looking for properly.
My S4 doesn't have a pusher fan on my AC Condenser (87), I wasn't sure if they existed on later models. Based on what you said, it sounds like they do exist. Does anyone have a part number? I'm just looking for any information on them, I can't seem to find any clear answers.
The Mazda p/n's are N326-15-035A (S4) and N350-15-035A (S5). Apparently, FC's with AT only came with the additional electric fans. Make sure your fan clutch is operating properly. Are you still using R12 refrigerant?
Fan clutch is operating properly. No longer on R12, it was converted by previous owner. Car blows nice and cold even in 100f AZ heat (makes my cheeks cold, heh), but when I'm at a drive through, or idle for a period of time, it isn't as effective. It doesn't blow out hot air, just not as cold as when driving. I'm being extra picky trying to get the best out of my AC in 100f weather, it's by no means "terrible", but I think a blower fan would really help maintain that cool temp when idle.
According to the wiring diagram, there's a 15A fuse in the fuse block at driver's side kick panel for the positive voltage supply to the fan motor. The negative voltage (i.e., ground) for the fan motor runs through a relay, which is grounded in parallel through both the refrigerant pressure switch and the water temperature switch.
According to the wiring diagram, there's a 15A fuse in the fuse block at driver's side kick panel for the positive voltage supply to the fan motor. The negative voltage (i.e., ground) for the fan motor runs through a relay, which is grounded in parallel through both the refrigerant pressure switch and the water temperature switch.
Thanks for this. I don't really know how to trade these diagrams just yet, going to have to do some research to make sense of this but I think this is what I was looking for.
The Mazda p/n's are N326-15-035A (S4) and N350-15-035A (S5). Apparently, FC's with AT only came with the additional electric fans. Make sure your fan clutch is operating properly. Are you still using R12 refrigerant?
My '89TII, naturally a M/T, came with the pusher and one can hear it running from quite a distance.
I see the part number N350-15-035A is for all models '86-'91.
MazdaRX-71991Base, Convertible, Turbo1.3L R2 - Gas
MazdaRX-7198810th Anniversary, Convertible, GTU, GXL, GXL 2+2, SE, SE 2+2, Turbo1.3L R2 - Gas
MazdaRX-71987Base, Base 2+2, GXL, GXL 2+2, LX, LX 2+2, Sport, Turbo1.3L R2 - Gas
MazdaRX-71986Base, GXL, Turbo1.3L R2 - Gas
Hard to believe there wouldn't be a a fan to move air over the condenser, so sure there isn't one and it's not working..
I wonder if mine ever had one stock and was removed. I have receipts from previous owner that it was at a AC repair shop a few times and I see bright non OEM brackets holding the condenser on one side. Either way, this is something I'm interested in adding now. This part seems pretty generic right? I should be able to get any other after market ac condenser fan and save a few bucks, correct? I wish I knew the dimensions of the OEM one to get one the same size but the online results for the part number don't state it. Seems pretty roomy there anyway so shouldn't be a huge deal to find something to fit, unless there are some bigger unforeseen potential issues with fitment and or functionality I'm not aware of.
Thinking something like this would work great - I'd love to hear your opinions. (Again, just looking for a cheap solution to push a bit of air through, nothing crazy)
Diameter 10.75" Depth 2.56"
From what I see, the AC Condenser is 11" tall and I got about 15" of width of clearance to attach something so this seems to be a great fit. Thoughts?
Anyone have any idea what the diameter of the stock one is? Though I see clearance of 11", I feel like i shouldn't go with a 10" one, possibly a 9" to be safe. But if I hear that the stock one was 10" or 7", that would help me feel like I'm making the right choice in fitment.
Found it. Says Electrical Fan is 10.04" So that makes me feel better
Now my next train of thought is, if this existed on some models, I wonder if my car has an existing connector by there that I can use to attach my new fan to. Otherwise, I'll be using the 15A fuse in the kick panel for "Cooling Fan".
Just took a quick peek and immediately found a rogue connector that looks to be exactly what I'd expect to see. I'll have to look at the wite diagram to see if this is my guy!
Anyone have any idea what the diameter of the stock one is? Though I see clearance of 11", I feel like i shouldn't go with a 10" one, possibly a 9" to be safe. But if I hear that the stock one was 10" or 7", that would help me feel like I'm making the right choice in fitment.
My stock pusher fan was noisy as hell, so when I took a close look I found out why - 1 of the 5 fan blades was busted, and the others were chipped/cracked, probably a rock strike. Anyway, after doing a bit of research, I found out I could have purchased a replacement fan (no motor, just the fan) from Mazda for about $50. Instead I opted to pick up a nice 10" fan off of ebay for like $15. That fan has 8 curved blades, it's quiet and seems to push plenty of air. I was able to re-purpose the existing stock fan frame (removed fan/motor assembly from it; IIRC some very minor cutting was involved), then I mounted my new fan to the stock frame with epoxy (JB weld) and zip ties as a temporary support while the epoxy cured. My goal was to have it mount just like stock with the same faster hardware and not look ghetto. Did the job, and no problems since - did this when I did a complete AC restoration 2 years ago.
Originally Posted by Romthirty
Just took a quick peek and immediately found a rogue connector that looks to be exactly what I'd expect to see. I'll have to look at the wite diagram to see if this is my guy!
Yup, that sure looks like the stock fan connector. To check, it should have 12V across its two terminals when the AC is on and compressor is running.
Last edited by Pete_89T2; 07-23-19 at 03:14 PM.
Reason: added info
Excellent! This makes me feel a lot more comfortable now, I did also find the wire diagram and what the original fan connector looks like and looks to be the right one! My last (and final?) question to the community is, does anyone know if this connector has a name that I can search for and buy? (see image) .
If I can have a clean "plug n play" solution that is non-destructive and reversible, that would be ideal!
I took a look at the the '91 TII I have sitting in the pole shed, and if you look at the round cross bar, there is a brace on the right side for the PS cooling lines and a raised boss just to the left of that brace on top of the bar to mount the housing on the right side, looking into the engine compartment, and the wiring comes out of the harness just before the brace.
As stated above, see if current/voltage when the a/c is activated.
You need air to be moved across the condenser when at idle, and many, many, years ago when I installed a/c on cars that came from the factory non-equipped, on most we would replace the cooling fan with a non clutch multi bade unit that would move the required air at idle.
I took a look at the the '91 TII I have sitting in the pole shed, and if you look at the round cross bar, there is a brace on the right side for the PS cooling lines and a raised boss just to the left of that brace on top of the bar to mount the housing on the right side, looking into the engine compartment, and the wiring comes out of the harness just before the brace.
As stated above, see if current/voltage when the a/c is activated.
You need air to be moved across the condenser when at idle, and many, many, years ago when I installed a/c on cars that came from the factory non-equipped, on most we would replace the cooling fan with a non clutch multi bade unit that would move the required air at idle.
Since you you have an AC background, is there benefits to more blades, S-shape blades vs less blades, flat shape?
Excellent! This makes me feel a lot more comfortable now, I did also find the wire diagram and what the original fan connector looks like and looks to be the right one! My last (and final?) question to the community is, does anyone know if this connector has a name that I can search for and buy? (see image) .
If I can have a clean "plug n play" solution that is non-destructive and reversible, that would be ideal!
We installed fans similar to the rigid race fans similar to the units below: https://derale.com/product-footer/belt-driven-fans
You just need something that would move a lot of air, either a cooling fan as described, not a clutch fan, or the pusher.
We installed fans similar to the rigid race fans similar to the units below: https://derale.com/product-footer/belt-driven-fans
You just need something that would move a lot of air, either a cooling fan as described, not a clutch fan, or the pusher.
Those are OLD school. 60’s and 70’s tech there. All they were meant to do is flatten the blades out and reduce blade angle at higher engine speeds, which was meant to reduce fan drag. They are pretty poor for engine performance no matter what, and a huge downgrade from any electric fan.
There is a reason every car built in the last 25-30 years uses an electric fan.
07-22-19, 01:18 PM
