? about hard & solid mounts .. GOOD OR BAD
#1
D.I.L.U.S.I.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: L-Town pa
Posts: 2,051
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
? about hard & solid mounts .. GOOD OR BAD
so can anybody explain how the fc handles after your upgrade to Hard Differential Mounts, POLY/SOLID motor mounts, and SOLID TRANNY mounts setups. i was thinking of doing some of this next but im worried about the drive train.
iv read there's No need for an engine torque brace when solid mounts are used. and they help with miss shifts from the flexing of the rubber mounts. looking for some on hands insite on these parts.
iv read there's No need for an engine torque brace when solid mounts are used. and they help with miss shifts from the flexing of the rubber mounts. looking for some on hands insite on these parts.
#2
Rest In Peace Dave
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If this is mainly a street driver then it'll probrably be a bit annoying, the solid diff mounts should be fine, you wont notice too much different w/ it and you'll experience a bit less wheel hop, and no you wont need an engine torque brace w/ those..well because you engine wont be moveing at all.
#3
Locust of the apocalypse
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Directly above the center of the earth (York, PA)
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
The BEST mounts I've seen are the AWR mounts., they have a more tradition design to them where contanct point is a Poly bushing setup and not metal to metal touching.
personally, i have Banzai Racing polly mounts.. and, yep, it'll stiffen up thoise shift points, but transmits a bit more vibration than stock, but less than solid aluminum.
Most stock style Poly mounts are simply a thick cylinder of poly with a hole drilled in the center so that a bolt can be run from the frame to the motor bracket... even though there is poly there, the bolt is still metal to metal contact...
personally, i have Banzai Racing polly mounts.. and, yep, it'll stiffen up thoise shift points, but transmits a bit more vibration than stock, but less than solid aluminum.
Most stock style Poly mounts are simply a thick cylinder of poly with a hole drilled in the center so that a bolt can be run from the frame to the motor bracket... even though there is poly there, the bolt is still metal to metal contact...
#5
kill it with BOOMSTICK!
I got scalliwags solid motor and trans mounts and have nothing but good things to say about them. Sure, they're a bit noisy, but there is no excessive vibration or anything that detracts from drivability. In fact, I'd go as far as to say they IMPROVE drivability because you don't have the lag time of the rubber or poly mounts to flex before power is transferred to the rest of the drivetrain. I give them a 10/10 overall. Also, ALWAYS USE THE SAME MATERIAL FOR THE MOTOR AND TRANS MOUNTS AS WELL AS THE FRONT AND REAR DIFF MOUNTS. This is because the stress is forced all on the softer mount material, making it have the brunt of the wear and force. This in turn translates into a broken mount after a few days/weeks/months (if you're lucky). Just a general warning.
Trending Topics
#8
i am legendary
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 8,478
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I love my solid mounts. Solid motor/tranny/front diff mounts, solid delrin rear diff mounts, full poly bushings, etc... It's a stiff ride, feels very tight now, but the vibrations can get annoying! Above 50mph it vibrates because of the solid motor/tranny mounts, its a massage for a while and then it turns into an annoyance.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post