A couple of people have done it by "T"ing off the airpump output, and tuning the pressure with ball valves to activate the ports at around 3500-3800 RPM.

But if you don't have the converter, you don't need the air pump anymore...

 

just wire/zip tie them actuators open. if thats not good enuf for you, remove the 6port sleeves completely, and block off the holes.

i did this to my car, and you loose low end tork, but, its not any worse than drivng around in a ford festiva. and the thing is, it feels like a turbo car. cuz the higher the RPM's go, the harder the car pulls. its amazing. especialy when you couple this w/ a aftermarket intake set up, and a free flowing exhaust, youll love it.

less tork down in the RPMS, means more clutch slippage to take off. all that means, is that you have to use more finesse to do stop and go driving. its not as forgiving as a torkey "pissed-on" engine. but its ok, you get used to it, and its not a problem

chris

 

Try this http://home.earthlink.net/~burntoast/6port.html by the way, the airpump only puts out five psi max. That is not a meaningful drag on hp. Using the airpump to open the sixports is a meaningful increase in hp.

 

good call Hailers, except, removing the air pump, elminates the 15 lbs of weight from the front of the engine, which could translate into quicker acceleration, and better handling....ultimatly. right?

chris

 

The Racing Beat ones that I have come with a 1/8 inch nipple that comes off the fwd exaust header and is used to open the aux actuators. It does work. Either that or take note of the web page I noted in the earlier post that mentions an electric method by Rotary Performance. Could wire them, but I don't think it would be as efficient as the other methods. I really don't know because I do not race. Your right about the weight etc. Engine bay does look much better without the pump in the way. Leave mine on so once a year I can change out the exaust for inspection and not have to reinstall the acv or airpump.

 

You know,

I hate messing with these ports.
I would never wire them open.

To restore proper operation without the air pump, go to Electronic 6 port actuator .


Theres a right and wrong way to do stuff, and modding thes cars too much or without a well planned series of tested methods will result in a problematic car that seemingly has no end to the "little things" youi have to do to it.

Switch to the electronic actuators and then mod the exhaust.

 

amen to that. the weight reduction is usually helpful.

i took mine off, for that reason, also, less rotating mass. freed up like... A horsepower, Singular. but it did make a difference in the time it takes to rev the engine up to speed, and also for rev matching. the time for the engine to spin-down has decreased. but we dont have Echeck here yet. i kept my old exhaust and air pump just incase we do get it.

something thats of MUCH benefit, is a conversion to electric fan. it is a noticable difference

chris

 

I'm convinced that I am the only person that bought the Racing BEat headers and exaust system with the pipe coming off the front rotor exaust header. Is there even one soul out there that has this setup? The pipe is used to activate the aux actuators on 86-88. Just one person? I bought this complete system, dual, from Mazdatrix about three years ago.

 

Rotary Man Rx7.........It sounds like your system is different than mine, but I see what they are doing on yours and it should work. They have the back pressure from the presilencer going to the nipple for the aux ports to activate them, similar to the stock method. There are cheap alternatives. A simple plastic nipple inserted into the one inch size hose coming directly from the airpump going to a solenoid valve off a wrecked RX and then a vac line from there to the supply nipple for the aux actuators. The solenoid valve has two wires. One goes to any ground. The other goes to the RELIEF SOLENOID PLUG. Just splice into the signal wire from the ECU. The relief solenoid valve is energized at 3500 rpm, therefore your aux actuators will be supplied with air from the air pump thru the new used solenoid each and everytime that the revs hit 3500. There are other ways that are just a touch simpler. The above cost about five to ten bucks. About a buck if you already have a spare solenoid laying around. Its just a copy cat of the 89 and up cars. Its just applicable to 86 thru 88 with the airpump in place. The othere method implied cost about a buck.